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Thread: How-To flush ATX fluid and change filter Reply to Thread
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Topic Review (Newest First)
03-12-2016 03:12 PM
rkpatt amc49 - It almost sounds like buying that "kit" is a waste except for the hollow bolt. I don't have a 1/8 NPT tap so I would have to buy that too unless a copper washer or fiber gasket would seal better than that o-ring. I wonder if am better off getting a brass or steel reducing bushing (female npt thread in the middle) and getting it brazed on and using a brass npt plug. A friend will do it for me but not now (which is of course when I want to do the job because available downtime for the car :).

Quote:
Originally Posted by amc49 View Post
I mod the Help/Motormite part, the nylon gaskets suck, part does not stay tight using them.
Friggin' $2 part with $30 worth of extra work done to it like most of my stuff but again like all the rest, bulletproof in use.
Edit - I could not get the connector to release at the cooler end even though I followed the advice on the related thread here - http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/g...automatic.html but had no luck. I wound up disconnecting the line at the transmission.

03-12-2016 12:38 PM
amc49 I mod the Help/Motormite part, the nylon gaskets suck, part does not stay tight using them. Either aluminum or copper gasket and I mount in the bottom but placed close to halfway back so not exactly lowest point but close, pan is at a slight angle. Fitting clears all parts above it too. I either drill side leak holes or grind inside end of fitting to lower it to let more of the oil out since the last bit commonly dirtiest. I use a shorter/narrower nut instead of the one that comes with part to lower that drain level in pan too. A 'jam' nut from hardware store. The plug-in-a-plug idea sucks too, looks like it might fall out or leak since the oil ring there does not seal for spit, and the original as designed plug only tightens at the hit rather than threads seal like true NPT does. I redrill the hole for bigger drain passage and retap for 1/8" NPT deeper and use a small allen head plug to lower the height of outside fitting. The o-ring no longer needed or used, only slight teflon tape on the allen plug which now seals at the threads like it's supposed to. Then always use a wrench on outside of fitting at same time allen wrench is used on the plug to prevent the inner loosening instead which makes you yank pan again to retighten. The aluminum or copper gasket allows you to really torque up on fitting at the first install to make sure it does not come loose in use.

Fitting does stick out a bit but doesn't hit and I commonly go on a back dirt drive that gets pretty rutted to let car drag anything close enough to do so. Being pan is slanted and fitting about halfway back the fitting about same level as the back edge of pan. Has never touched yet and them on two cars same way.

Friggin' $2 part with $30 worth of extra work done to it like most of my stuff but again like all the rest, bulletproof in use.

B&M Racing Transmissions used to make an ATX drain plug kit but whether the company or the part still in existence is beyond me. I've used them too.
03-12-2016 11:00 AM
FocusKnot Good that you found amc's post.

Perhaps call a local tranny repair place and see how much they would charge you to weld a bung on your pan. They could cut one out of an old pan and put it on yours. With welding you'll never have to worry about it coming loose.
03-12-2016 10:40 AM
rkpatt Thanks - I agree with your suggestion about installing the drain plug on the side of the pan. I am interested in finding out how others have done this. I don't have a lot of faith in those Dorman/Motormite, Needa, B&M Racing drain plug kits with the nylon washers. I am interested in finding out how others have done it.

BTW- I found one of amc49's posts on the subject- http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/g...-flushing.html

QUOTE=FocusKnot;9594649]I think amc49 has installed drain plugs on his, so maybe he will weigh in on this.

I would install the plug in the side of the pan at the rear by the magnet. This seems to be the lowest part of the pan. There is photo of the pan in this thread (the 8th link from the top) showing the magnet. I would not put the plug on the bottom for fear that I might it might get hit with something (debris in road or whatever) and cause a problem.[/QUOTE]
03-12-2016 09:25 AM
FocusKnot I think amc49 has installed drain plugs on his, so maybe he will weigh in on this.

I would install the plug in the side of the pan at the rear by the magnet. This seems to be the lowest part of the pan. There is photo of the pan in this thread (the 8th link from the top) showing the magnet. I would not put the plug on the bottom for fear that I might it might get hit with something (debris in road or whatever) and cause a problem.
03-12-2016 08:58 AM
rkpatt Great thread . I am about to perform this procedure on a 2005 Focus ZX4. Has anyone installed a drain plug in the ATX pan while it was off . (I would like the option to do drain and fills and/or have things less messy for future pan drops.) Any tips on doing that ? - Thanks
02-02-2016 02:06 AM
amc49 I used to take the oil to dump it in store tank for customers and what got me to thinking about it. Some people change oil as low as 2500 miles and poured the oils still looked almost new. I asked manager and then kept a few dumps of those low mileage oils and marked them as to type and weight and zero cost oil for many things there.

My son changes his real early too and I keep his now since I do the changes for him. Myself, I pretty much run oil out to 9000 OCI now using dirt cheap Walmart conventional oil. Can't seem to kill the cars even doing that.
02-01-2016 08:51 AM
FocusKnot ^^^ Good ideas there for repurposing old fluid/oil.

And while we are on that subject, a lot of people don't know that most auto parts stores will take your old fluids for recycling. Used fluids are more toxic than new fluids, so please people, don't dump it out on the ground.
01-31-2016 11:23 PM
amc49 You are correct, that would be the same thing as running the engine dry of oil to change it, asking to tear up the engine. Trans oil pump is same construction as engines' and as soon as it pumps dry tries to scar itself up. Utterly retarded.

The 4F27E requires all the old fluid to orderly leave the pan before the new does and as well the 3 quarts plus in convertor to do what we're talking about here. I just don't see how that's possible. The convertor entry is very close to the exit as well and the new fluid coming in could easily short circuit, certainly not like it's on one side of convertor and the exit on the other. The convertor exit passage as well bypasses a lot of the dirty fluid back into the lube1 circuit rather than going to cooler, and another circuit back through hydraulic control too, so no direct one outlet there.

I do the multiple fill method (drain plug in pan, I don't change filter anymore) and wasteful but by the time you have hit 3X you are looking at 75+% new fluid and anything past that is no improvement. 1st time you will have 50% new, 2nd time 75% and 3rd roughly 87%. I save all of the old fluid to use it in other things now so not really wasted. I've actually used the 3rd drain amount in an older car since it was in better shape than what was in it. Excellent chain bar oil for chainsaws too. Some used to make honing fluid too. I sort it by the quality, same as drained engine oil. I use my old 30 weight engine oil in the mower now. Money can be picked up off the street if you're looking.
01-31-2016 11:11 AM
FocusKnot
Quote:
Originally Posted by amc49 View Post
So, what do you do when you get one of the ones that never seems to change color?
I guess I’ll have to figure something else out when that happens, but it hasn’t happened to me yet. I must say that I was VERY skeptical of this process when I first heard about it many years ago. I had always viewed the torque converter as a huge blender. I don’t know nearly as much about auto transmissions as you do, so I cannot explain why it would or wouldn’t work…it just does on the Focus and is the recommended procedure in service manual: Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet


Also, I found a YouTube video posted that shows this being done: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AnFe8eSiJzc


I wouldn’t bother with the siphon part that he does at the beginning, but I think he was just trying to avoid messing up his clean driveway. Also, I have found that I am not quick enough to do a continuous fill by myself, so I always have someone to turn the car off when the fluid changes color in the hose. Several times I have been able to spot the color change and have the engine shut off in time to have new fluid in one end and old, dirty fluid in the other (I use about a 5 foot long clear vinyl hose). Here is a photo (Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet) I took when doing one job that shows the fluid in the hose. Notice that it has bright red fluid in the hose and black fluid in the jug. On this particular flush job I needed to expel the remaining 4 quarts from the system after I had changed the filter and refilled the pan with new fluid. So, I hooked up my 1 gallon jug (on larger systems I use a 5 gallon bucket with fill marks on it) and the fluid changed color in the hose at almost exactly the 4 quart point.


Does this procedure get 100% of the old fluid out? I would think not. However, it must be getting a very high percentage of the old fluid out because if I compare the fluid in the bottle to a sample from the transmission after I have run it, there is no discernable difference. Granted, that is a color and smell test and not a chemical analysis.


I know of another “recommended” method to change the fluid that says to drain the pan (if it has a drain plug), fill, drive, drain the pan, fill, drive, and finally drain the pan and fill a third time. To me, that mathematically can’t work…you can never get the old fluid out, you can only dilute it.


On a side note, I have found that if I overfill the pan before starting the car, I don’t have to rush as much trying to pour in the new fluid. So, if the pan requires 3 quarts, I start with 4. I don’t like the idea of running the pan and possibly the tranny dry. I know that running the tranny dry is described on the first page of this thread, but I don’t do it that way…it just doesn’t seem like a good thing.
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