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Topic Review (Newest First)
01-14-2012 04:28 PM
md2009 Finished it up today.

Didn't like how shinny the drain plug was

So I fixed it. :)

If you've never dropped a pan before, it is a heck of a lot easier to leave a few of the bolts loose at the top. That way when you get it loose, it pours right into the pan.

New and old:

Ready to go back in:

I always use a razor to clean up the mounting surface. Have to be VERY careful not to scratch the surface though. :)

And back up and ready to go. Tighten everything hand tight, then go through and do alternating sides (like you do when you torque down your tires, for example.)

Pretty simple really. This new Mercon LV fluid is REALLY freaking hard to find.. and, I'm not sure whats up with this, but the stuff smells absolutely terrible. New or used. It just smells bad.

My next project that I wanted to do was the fuel filter. I picked up the filter when I was down at the parts store getting everything else. Climb under the car... and... What the hell? Where is the damn filter?

Look look look. Follow all the lines. Crawl all over the tank. Cannot find the thing. Finally start doing a little research..

Are you g kidding me Ford? A "life-time" fuel filter? Are you kidding me? That's what the owners manual is telling me... and I can't find anything to say different. Looks like I'll ALSO be adding a fuel filter to the car.. It absolutely amazes me what corners a car company will cut to save a few bucks. They probably saved $3 a pan by not installing a drain plug from the factory in the transmission pan, and $10 by not installing a real fuel filter. Unbelievable and inexcusable.
01-13-2012 10:12 PM
md2009 And so it begins. :)

Got the pan:

Got the drain:

Drilled a hole:

Cleaned the hole out:

Test fit to make sure it's damn tight. Want to do anything I can to make sure it doesn't leak. :)

3000 psi and 500*F pipe compound.. Just to make sure everything stays in place:

Torqued down:

Ready to rock:

Will probably drop the pan this weekend and replace the filter. I'll drain the pan and fill it every oil change going forward. Won't be as good as doing a flush, but it will help replenish the fluid every oil change.
01-13-2012 07:02 AM
Originally Posted by md2009 View Post
or no one else has done any of these things and I will be the first to post the pictures and info. :)
^^ This.

If I had any answers for you, I'd give them to you, but I've never seen or heard anyone do anything like this. Good luck to you and hope you can find your answers.
01-12-2012 07:50 PM
md2009 We could continue to go back and forth on the different types of filters. Its a never ending internet debate, and I doubt we will be resolving it here and now today. :)

Here is some interesting reading if you're bored:

I'll still stand by my initial statement: a filter which doesn't function properly without the addition of a sticky substance isn't really a filter at all. The CFM requirements for a 2.0 naturally aspirated engine are EASILY managed with a decent sized air filter (and the ones that come from the factory are more than adequate), and the potential gains for an inefficient air filter in CFM flow are easily outweighed by the potential damage from increased silicone consumption in the engine.

There is also a huge difference between "adequate" and "correct" in my humble opinion. Around here, you can buy quarts of Wolf recycled motor oil for around .79 cents per quart last time I checked. It meets the minimum, adequate requirements to be called motor oil (and the minimum API SJ/SL/SM ratings). Many people use it without problems. Doesn't mean its touching anything I own.

But that's all opinion. If anyone is interested, I would be happy to back up my opinion with fact after a few engine oil analysis. If anyone would like to compare silicone PPM numbers running their oil bathed filter to the numbers I'll post with my current paper filter (and hopefully a future dry media), then I think it should help put another nail in the coffin (but I doubt it will ever end the debate).

I do honestly thank you for the replies. Still not a lot of info being shared out there. I guess I'm either coming off as an a-hole no one wants to help, or no one else has done any of these things and I will be the first to post the pictures and info. :)
01-12-2012 12:32 PM
teamDFL Oil bath filters are still used in off-highway equipment where there is a greater concentration of particulate matter needing to be filtered out. While I agree with your take on the need to publish specs, there is nothing intrinsically wrong with oiled air filter.

Unfortunately, I see nothing that will help you.
01-12-2012 12:19 PM
Originally Posted by md2009 View Post
I'm a firm believer that an air filter shouldn't require the addition of a sticky substance in order to filter to maximum efficiency
I'm sorry but that is how air filters are designed to work. It's the oil that captures the small particles that would normally pass through the filter. I'm no expert at the subject but it seems to me that any filter that doesn't require oil would be so tightly made that air would have a hard time passing through it too. The best filters capture the most/smallest particles while restricting the least amount of air.

I'm not trying to be rude and you are fully entitled to your opinion, but I'm just saying it as I see it. In the end, do what you feel is best for your engine even if I think your wrong.
01-12-2012 11:23 AM
md2009 A variety of reasons.

I'm a firm believer that an air filter shouldn't require the addition of a sticky substance in order to filter to maximum efficiency. I also believe a company should have no problem posting the efficiency of their products, especially products that are meant to protect your engine.

I like the AEM products because they have been independently tested to filter to 98%+ efficiency in the 1 micron size. I did a TON of research before I made my last purchase, and I wasn't able to find any results from K&N on their efficiency or micron rating. I recognize it is personal bias and it probably works "just fine" for most folks.. But I'm not spending my cash with a company that doesn't provide specifications.

I've also seen the effects of an over-oiled air filter on mass air flow sensor. I understand it is 99.9% user error, but you cannot say with 100% confidence that no oil will be pulled into the intake tube no matter how lightly oiled the filter is.

Granted, what I've said is highly biased and much is my personal opinion (and nothing more), but I still would prefer a non-oiled filter.
01-12-2012 07:11 AM
02fordsvt Why do you want a non-oiled air filter?
01-11-2012 10:55 PM
Few Questions

Hi All,

I posted these questions in the year specific forums and didn't get a ton of responses there. I think it was because I probably posted it in the wrong forum. :) I have a 2009 S with an auto.

Here is the condensed version (I tend to get a little long winded in my posts.)

1: Has anyone installed a bypass oil filter on the second gen focus? I've ordered on from Pareto due to the simplicity of the setup, but I'm having a hell of a time trying to figure out where it is going to fit. Would love to see some pictures of what everyone else has done. I'll post pictures of my install when done.

2: I'm looking for a drop in replacement non-oiled air filter. I've always used AEM products in the past, but it doesn't appear they make a filter for these cars. Does anyone know of a drop in replacement filter that doesn't use oil?

3: Has anyone installed a drain plug in their automatic transmission pans? I went looking for a replacement pan all over the place and couldn't find anything. I finally admitted defeat and ordered a new pan from the dealer, and I plan on welding in my own drain plug. Curious if there are any spots that work better than others due to solenoids or the filter?

That's about all the questions I have for now. I'm really fighting to keep this car as stock as possible.. This is supposed to be my daily driver commuter car! :)

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