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Topic Review (Newest First)
01-24-2015 06:49 PM
Arco-Zakus
Quote:
Originally Posted by ErinP View Post
OK, don't make me wander back through 82 pages of oil change...

What's the consensus--Traditional or synthetic?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Elizabeth View Post
... PS there IS no consensus... Why do you thing this thread GOT to BE so long.. Everybody has their own notion of what is the right thing to do. Then you got the NOOACK folks, and the different viscosity folks, and the 'old timey' advice. Oil is about as contentious as Politics. LOL ...
...
Took the words right out of my mouth.
01-24-2015 04:59 PM
Elizabeth
Quote:
Originally Posted by wavsine View Post
What is insane is to wait until the OLM alerts you to change the oil for the very first oil change at 10,000 miles.
I have to fully agree with you on that one!
01-24-2015 01:26 PM
wavsine
Quote:
Originally Posted by Elizabeth View Post

For myself? I am insane. I change the first oil change to synthetic at 1K miles,
What is insane is to wait until the OLM alerts you to change the oil for the very first oil change at 10,000 miles.
01-24-2015 01:12 PM
Elizabeth
Quote:
Originally Posted by ErinP View Post
OK, don't make me wander back through 82 pages of oil change...

What's the consensus--Traditional or synthetic?
For ordinary folks who change their oil every 3K miles, and never run the engine hard.. For those who have a leased car, or a not a Ford Focus.. Regular oil is fine.

The Ford Focus MK3 Ford suggests at least synthetic blend, and the oil has to meet the more recent oil requirements. (so that pile of oil from 1967 your crazy uncle Harry still had in his garage.. Nooooo....)

For the MK3 and plenty of modern cars a synthetic blend is good. If you drive normally, and follow the oil change suggestions from Ford. Since Ford suggests using the synthetic blend, and does use it at Ford dealerships.. This is all you need if you are an ordinary driver.

If you regularly run your engine up to redline, run it hard, or race around.. If you want the maximum possible protection AND are will to pay for it. Then use full synthetic.


PS there IS no consensus... Why do you thing this thread GOT to BE so long.. Everybody has their own notion of what is the right thing to do. Then you got the NOOACK folks, and the different viscosity folks, and the 'old timey' advice. Oil is about as contentious as Politics. LOL


(As for using it longer.. Well that kind is being cheap. I say if the plan is to use a synthetic then leave it in forever.. Well the average person would be better served using a cheaper oil and changing it more often.

For myself? I am insane. I change the first oil change to synthetic at 1K miles, Then change it again another 1 to 2K miles.
After that once a year (as i drive only around 4K on average a year. and I may go to every 8 months since I got the turbo ST.)
I use Mobile One 5W30 Extended Performance for my ST
When I had the SE, I used the 0W20 Mobil One Advanced Fuel Economy in it.
01-24-2015 12:20 PM
ErinP OK, don't make me wander back through 82 pages of oil change...

What's the consensus--Traditional or synthetic?
12-14-2014 02:12 PM
sailor I was a little surprised the first time I saw that, but as I thought about it my guess was that recording numbers made more sense than a "check off" box in terms of forcing an actual check. WAY too easy to just check off the boxes to fill out a form, and that doesn't accomplish anything.

TA (Travel centers of America) does it as well as Speedco (a quick change chain for trucks). Petro is part of TA now so if they hadn't it's prob. on their list as well now.

You're right on large maint./repair bills, from what I've seen a good budget is to plan on as much for that as for the monthly Truck pymt.. Typical ballpark on a used Truck is $1,000/mo. ea. for pymt., maint./repair & Insurance as a minimum. (and that's just the large bills for overhead)
12-14-2014 12:30 PM
wavsine
Quote:
Originally Posted by sailor View Post
Big Rig engines have all the filters vertical, and pre-charge mentioned is std. for all of them (Oil & fuel).

Many service facilities record oil pressure before & after the change, both as a double check to prove their work & to show the higher oil pressure after a change.

When an owner/driver is present each step is shown for check off/proof as it's done, particularly torquing of drain plugs & that pressure check.
Thanks Roger. I learn something new every time you post. I had a friend that owned his own rig and I was unaware of that. I do know the repair bills were huge on his Kenworth.
12-14-2014 10:03 AM
sailor Big Rig engines have all the filters vertical, and pre-charge mentioned is std. for all of them (Oil & fuel).

Many service facilities record oil pressure before & after the change, both as a double check to prove their work & to show the higher oil pressure after a change.

When an owner/driver is present each step is shown for check off/proof as it's done, particularly torquing of drain plugs & that pressure check.
12-13-2014 10:34 AM
Lscman
Quote:
Originally Posted by wavsine View Post
Agree 100%. Subaru boxer engines mount the filter upside down so no preload on those. Of course it doesn't matter on some of the newer Subarus because the oil consumption is so high the crankcase is empty before the next oil change if you don't add oil every time you buy gas.
I would turn the car upside down to change the filter.
12-13-2014 10:13 AM
Lscman
Quote:
Originally Posted by Texaswiley View Post
I had a GTO in the mid 60's that would knock like crazy after an oil change (30w oil) To the point I would sometime panic, shut it off and recheck oil level. Precharging totally eliminated that. I've done it ever since. BTW Cummins shows it as part of the oil change instructions on my motor home. My motto "If in doubt always overdo it" Never had a bearing failure in any car I've owned.
I imagine Cummins is building engines to last longer than the average $20k econobox that gets junked every 10 yrs. As you noted, their "best practice" service procedures include pre-charging. This step positively contribute to their avg engine lifecycles which approach 1 million miles. I see that as undeniable testimony.

My cars stop running when I choose to retire them from excess body rust caused by PA winter road salt, not when they begin drink oil excessively or show engine blowby. My last Lincoln engine had 300K miles on it when it got transplanted into a Mustang 5L track car to live a second life. The cylinders still had factory hone marks to the top, never rebuilt, just aftermarket heads installed to add HP. Oil pressure and consumption was unchanged since the day I bought the car new. I really don't pay extra to service my cars right.
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