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Thread: Duratec Intake Manifold Removal and PCV hose replacement Reply to Thread
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Topic Review (Newest First)
11-10-2014 06:05 PM
Marde
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bean View Post
Another TIP: use a piece of stiff thin cardboard, like a cereal box, to make a tube just big enough for the manifold bolts to slide through it easily. Tape it securely. Wedge it into the hole for that hidden center bolt so it reaches the block and has a half-inch sticking out. Will post picture later (but here's a link). No need for taping the bolt to the socket in fear of losing it. The stiffness of the board keeps it straight and allows you to push the bolt through the whole using an extension (I used 1/4" socket for most of the bolts). I used the same cardboard for some of the other bolts where I feared dropping the bolt and having to fish for it.
Awesome idea! Why didn't I think of that? Good move Bean!
11-10-2014 05:52 PM
Bean I tested my PCV Valve again by drawing air from it and it did not close when sucking fairly normally, like drinking a thick slushy -- it would close when sucking quicker, as after holding ones breath.

I did briefly try to remove it anyway hoping it'd be easy and then I could clean it. I did not succeed, but I did not try hard, in fear of breaking it and delaying finishing the job for even longer -- hopefully won't be paying for it a year from now.

I did put everything back together without many complications. Made a mistake of not using grease (silicone) on the PCV Hose, it was a pain to put onto the Intake Manifold (spit helped a bit). Might be better to install on the manifold first, seemed like it fit onto the Valve easier but that may well have been because it had been on the valve for a few days already and stretched out (during the process it came off the valve, but slipped back on easily). So the TIP might be to put both ends of your new hose onto something to stretch it out a bit. The clips on the Dorman hose are super handy, once clamps in position just pull off the red tab with long needle-nose pliers)

Another TIP: use a piece of stiff thin cardboard, like a cereal box, to make a tube just big enough for the manifold bolts to slide through it easily. Tape it securely. Wedge it into the hole for that hidden center bolt so it reaches the block and has a half-inch sticking out. Will post picture later (but here's a link). No need for taping the bolt to the socket in fear of losing it. The stiffness of the board keeps it straight and allows you to push the bolt through the whole using an extension (I used 1/4" socket for most of the bolts). I used the same cardboard for some of the other bolts where I feared dropping the bolt and having to fish for it.

Have more tips too I think (and some questions). Will post my own write-up with pics at my old thread and link here: http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/s...=491737&page=4

And... I should probably mention that my car didn't blow up. It runs and idles smoothly now! No check engine light (before had one for random misfires detected, cyl 1 misfires sometimes, and a lean reading from O2 sensor). No more misfires (well, there were a handful I saw via OBD tool, but maybe a misfire here and there is ok? Before the operation I'd have 50+, mostly on Cyl 1).

Thanks everybody for the help! Will continue following these threads in hopes I can pay it forward.
11-07-2014 02:46 PM
sailor Only pics I've seen of getting it out involved removing the oil separator to release it from inside...
11-07-2014 01:54 PM
Marde Clean it with Carb Cleaner, maybe even soak it in Carb Cleaner if you can. One FF here has been cleaning them (not replacing them) fer' 20+ years. He might have started cleaning them before the PCV was even invented.

Yes, it has already been said in this thread and in others-> the PCV is tuff to get out because the tabs do not push-in enough or at all... so the ring and tabs end up getting tweaked or even broken. I was very lucky that mine did not break. Once back together, I applied a little RTV around the base of the ring because I might have compromised the ability of the tabs/ring to lock-it down. The design wasn't really geared for R&R. This is why some people and shops replace the entire housing the PCV sits on.
11-07-2014 08:34 AM
Bean Thanks for info. Is it possible to clean the existing one or does that mean I need a new valve to perform a "clean job"

Also, was it really difficult to remove? I've read it can be (maybe on dif engine), but shop manual says to just push in marked tabs...
11-06-2014 11:27 PM
felixthecat
Quote:
Originally Posted by Marde View Post
Just checked my old PCV and did a oral-suck-job on it. Sucking very hard on it = no stoppage at all. It was smooth like a straw. Nice oily after-taste too. Thx! Rinsed that out with water, then beer.

If I'm right, your PCV is sticky and needs a clean job. <insert bad joke anywhere in this post>.
I'll leave that one alone^^^^^^^LOL
11-06-2014 11:16 PM
Marde
Quote:
Originally Posted by Marde View Post
1) Suck too hard and it CLOSES might be normal. I will check my old one later.

Just checked my old PCV and did a oral-suck-job on it. Sucking very hard on it = no stoppage at all. It was smooth like a straw. Nice oily after-taste too. Thx! Rinsed that out with water, then beer.

If I'm right, your PCV is sticky and needs a clean job. <insert bad joke anywhere in this post>.
11-06-2014 07:31 PM
felixthecat
Quote:
Originally Posted by Moon` View Post
I just replaced the PCV valve and found that the hose was bad so had to order a hose. I taped up the existing hose that had about a 4" split in it to hobble it along until the new hose came in but this isn't a difficult job. I had to drop the fan housing down through the bottom because it wouldn't fit coming up, and then pull the intake manifold to get to the hose and PCV valve.

I am not mechanically inclined at all and this job only took me 2 hours from start to finish. I was really reluctant to do this because I thought getting the fan housing out would be a huge PITA but turns out you unhook two electrical connectors and then these little plastic tabs on the driver and passenger side of the housing just push out and the fan comes right out. Super easy.

With a 3/8" drive ratchet and a 6" extension I didn't have to pull the grill or anything either, just maneuvered the socket onto the bolts with the extension then hooked the ratchet to it and everything came right out.

Noticed while I was under the car at a couple of points to look at something that I've got an oil leak coming from the passenger side by where the serpentine belt and pulleys are. Couldn't really determine exactly where the leak was starting from but I know last time I changed spark plugs they were covered in oil. I've got the new gasket for the crankcase manifold but I haven't put it on yet. Might do that later today and hopefully that clears it up.
>>>>>If your plugs are covered in oil= I'd replace the cam cover gaskets.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Marde View Post
Good post. Great job! Yeah, the job ain't near as bad as it might seem before doing it. Your faster than me tho... then again, Everybody is faster than me.
>>>>>It takes as long as it takes. Sometimes it takes me longer & sometimes I can whip right thru.
11-06-2014 06:45 PM
Marde
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bean View Post
Couple immediate questions hoping somebody knows answer too by tomorrow afternoon.
1) When sucking on the PCV Valve


2) How should the PCV Hose be oriented



3) What exactly does this mean: "NOTE: To ease installation of the intake manifold lower center mounting bolt, use a 6-inch long, 5/16-
inch diameter hose."
1) Suck too hard and it CLOSES might be normal. I will check my old one later.

2) I connected the PCV hose on the engine-side first, then guided the IM into position and connected the hose onto the IM last, then bolted down the IM. The hose should be oriented almost straight up and will be leaning to the right at about 2 o'clock. Also, once clamped onto the engine-side, the hose swivels on the PCV.

3) Sounds like trouble & sounds like a good idea using a hose as a guide... assuming the hose fits in there AND your socket fits inside the hose. I used blue painters tape on the bolt and the tools to ensure I would not drop anything into the abyss of the IM. I taped the first extension onto the socket and a tiny bit of tape inside the socket where the bolt head will be... and then allowed a tiny amount of tape to hold the bolt head on the socket. Then slid the bolt, socket and the first extension into the hole some, then added a second extension & added more tape to hold the 2 extensions together. Started threading-in the bolt by hand. Pulling on the taped-up tools allowed the weakest point to disconnect-> the bolt-head on the socket. Then pulled out the tools and removed the tape from the inside of the socket and where it WAS holding onto the bolt. Then slide the extensions and socket back in to finish the torque. I was overly careful and slow, but did not drop anything into the mystery hole.

For those wondering why use 2 extensions instead of 1 long one: Can not use one long one because the Radiator is in the way. I might have also used a third (1-inch) extension to get the proper length.
11-06-2014 05:44 PM
Bean Couple immediate questions hoping somebody knows answer too by tomorrow afternoon.
1) When sucking on the PCV Valve, should air be continuously free-flowing? Or intermittent? I cannot blow into mine, so that's working correctly. But when I suck air comes out but in regular intervals. It's like I'm sucking a marble up with a straw, it gets sucked up, stops flow, but then it falls off. I think if I draw air gently it flows continuously, just gets interrupted if I draw air quickly. (I'm using a clean tube to draw air, and not inhaling )
2) How should the PCV Hose be oriented when installed on the Valve before reinstalling IM (Intake Manifold)? I'm sure there's some leeway but there should be an ideal angle so as to be as close as possible it's final position when IM is installed. I meant to take a picture of the collapsed one before it was removed but brother was too eager to yank it off (hah). In the shop manual it shows the same image for removal and installation, looks bent to about 4 o'clock but obviously that's not it's final position.
3) What exactly does this mean: "NOTE: To ease installation of the intake manifold lower center mounting bolt, use a 6-inch long, 5/16-
inch diameter hose."
That's from the Ford shop manual. Guessing it's referring to the hidden bolt, to maybe use a tube to place it in? Does the "lowering" just apply if the engine was removed and the IM was being lowered onto it? The idea of using a hose to place that bolt is great though, might try adhering a tube to make an easy channel to install it (and if need be remove it). I was planning on using some sticky adhesive to hold it half-way inside a long socket.


Thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Moon` View Post
Bah, I doubt I'm faster. Probably just lucky =)
It wasn't that bad for me either... except I think I was unlucky. The lower dipstick bolt got me, took a while before I resorted to a dremel to cut the head off. Wish I had a special stripped torx extractor, might have worked. http://smile.amazon.com/Lisle-62110-...torx+extractor

Other quick tips... Getting vacuum hoses off, just solid pulling with a little twisting does it, didn't tear any. Might wrap ends with F4 tape for reinforcement, or replace with new ones if they seem bad.

Some of the quick releases took time to figure out. One of them you push down on the red locking ring and pull out the tube. The other you pinch the green ring/locking-clip (u-shapped). At first appears like it should be removed as it snaps out fairly easily. Instead squeeze/pinch it.

Broke numerous plastic clips that attach wiring to frame and elsewhere. Any quick tips for alternative attaching method? Zip-ties?

Also, thoughts about wrapping PCV Hose with F4 tape? It was mentioned in this thread so I bought a roll (sounds like generally awesome useful stuff for other projects). Was planning to use it around other hose connections as I believe it shrinks some and forms a good water-tight seal like shrink-tubing. (and good heat/pressure resistance). Was thinking of using it to reinforce other connections too, even holding together and protecting some of the wiring. Good/Bad idea? Seems like it could only help prolong life of now aging/dry/weathered parts.

Thanks for all the help given in this forum. I will contribute my own write-up with pictures/tips in detail after I finish the job. Currently just waiting to hear if I need a PCV Valve (would need to pay for premium for Ford part to get it tomorrow as after market one isn't in stock at local shops).
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