|03-23-2014 08:29 PM|
|03-22-2014 03:53 PM|
|03-22-2014 03:32 PM|
|CunFFS13||I got a gas cap lock, and it worked! I'm getting better MPG|
|03-22-2014 09:40 AM|
|bshin352||Has anyone considered vortex generators? Or has anyone done their own underside mid plate and rear diffuser?|
|03-21-2014 05:06 PM|
|03-21-2014 04:50 PM|
I want some stainless steel moons like those in the pic above for my 17" wheels.
I would liketo have small holes drilled so the moons would bolt to the alloy wheel.
Only small machine screws would be needed.
Also a comment on the higher inflated front tires: if you do a test to find the 'perfect' patch (the shape of the contact patch on the ground) You will find nearly always the right patch is only when the front tires are about 5 to 8 PSI over the rear.
The right size tire/ground contact patch is TOTALLY dependent on psi in the tire and on the weight each tire is carrying.(so in a front engine car, no way can an equal front and rear PSI be 'correct' from a performance/tire wear point of view, the equal tire pressure is for stupid people. Pretty much exclusively.)(feel free to quote me on that)
The front in a front engine car obviously carries a lot more weight than the rear tires.
So for a four banger the difference is usually 4/6PSI more in the front tires than the rear, and a six cylinder would need about 6/8 PSI more than the rear tires for a perfect contact patch.
The perfect part means the tire wears perfectly evenly.
Fo most folks the front tires edges wear out faster anyway.
I realized higher PSI did not mean bad front wear. It actually means BETTER, more even front tire wear.
So I am always at 44/43 PSI front 39 PSI rear. (39 seems to be the rear limit for good ride. 40PSI starts to cause too much harshness in the ride.
Plus typically the PSI manufacturers suggest/use is ALWAYS for 'good ride' which means the smoothest ride. With near zero concern for 'best handling' or best tire wear.
(look at the Ford Firestone/Explorer fiasco. where Ford said use a below safe air pressure for a nice ride. And to compensate for a poor suspension design)
and sorry to highjack the thread about MPG to blather about tire air pressure..
|03-21-2014 11:54 AM|
Those 15" LRR tires with the moon caps and 0W-20 oil was getting me +42mpg combined last winter back when I was driving the speed limit and not warming my car up.
This winter... I said screw it. I want to be warm, I already lost 2 hubcaps so I just took them off and I already drive 100 miles a day so it's really not worth it to me to drive the speed limit. I was also getting free oil changes (5W-20) because of all of my DCT troubles.
Ooh, and keeping her clean and waxed helps with aerodynamics just a tiny bit!
|03-21-2014 11:41 AM|
Weld doors shut and sand smooth. Remove springs, remove all interior trim, remove spare tire, add lightweight full body skid plate, place pizza pans over wheel spokes, push car through town.
Mileage for days
|03-20-2014 09:15 PM|
I was getting 8L per 100klm
took the top off the air box
now its 7.9L per 1ooklm
so far so good.
|03-20-2014 07:14 AM|
Hey Doc - FWIW your engine is a Duratec, not a Zetec. And since you posted in a section for cars '12 and newer with a different engine design.... Just doesn't apply.
'Fraid the variations can get confusing, for our divisions here (just to keep 'em separate) yours would be considered a "Mk1.5", the first variant on the original.
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