|06-06-2016 10:39 AM|
A decent garage mechanic should be able to do it 4-5 hours taking your time. Maybe as little as 3 if you're hauling. Took me 6ish the first time through but a lot of that time was spent trying to figure out how to remove the IM.
As far as I know there is no way to get to the PCV valve / hose with the IM on.
|03-13-2016 11:50 AM|
Thanks to all for this great thread. i will be performing this task soon on my 2005 Ford Focus Zx4 SE w/ Duratec 2.0 . About how long should this job take for an intermediate level shadetree mechanic ?
Any more information on how to replace the PCV hose ( aka PCV tube , PCV breather hose ) without removing the intake manifiold is appreciated. I would like to give it a try before I delve into the R/R of the intake manifold .
Here are some good youtube videos about removing the Ford Focus Duratec intake manifold , PCV hose, PCV valve , etc. Read the author's notes and comments for easc one and give them a "like".-
(Also, there are some Ford Escape and Mazda models (Tribute, Mazda 3, Mazda 6) that have the Duratec 2.3 with the same issues / PCV components located under the intake manifold search for them.)
The PCV hose is different for 2.0L vs 2.3L Ford Focus Duratec engine. See Ford part #s below-
2.0L - 4S4Z-6758-BA
2.3L - 3S4Z-6758-AA
|06-23-2015 11:41 PM|
I like it!..............I was getting lonely, like the only one who does crazy butcher job stuff like that........fix it ONCE and RIGHT the first time to permanently fix a known issue.
Like me as well with the porting tool, I just can't leave rough ports alone either. It's sacrilege.
|06-23-2015 07:33 AM|
I've been reading over this thread and others and put off my PCV valve and hose replacement for over a year. I experience the idle stumble, sporadic hesitation on acceleration but no codes or intake vacuum whistle that others had.
It took me 3 hours (NY winters corroded the two T30 torx for the dipstick, and the lower one stripped, I had to grind the head off) to get the intake loosened enough to get the hose off of the intake, but I couldn't get the manifold all the way out. So I just put a cap on the intake nipple, clamped it and called it a day. I left the original PCV valve and hose in place, venting to atmosphere.
I put it back together in an hour and drove it today. Still have the weird hesitation and stumble. I'm starting another thread on that momentarily.
Takeways: Get the air filter box out of the way, drop the fan unit and radiator, do everything with 1/4" sockets and a range of extensions. Each lower bolt can be reached through the radiator support, even the one next to the pulleys.
|06-15-2015 07:33 AM|
Great thread - lots of good info.
I just did the job on my wife's '05 duratec zx5 and figured I'd post my experience and solution.
First, the issue was a stumble/hesitation with no CEL. Plugs looked white which suggested a lean condition. Cleaned TB, MAF, IAC. Replaced coils, plugs, EGR to no avail. Time for the PCV fix.
Hose was indeed split, but was largely intact which resulted in intermittent stumbling.
I want the car to comply with E-test laws and I don't want the car to mark its territory with oil drops. Therefore the PCV system must be sealed and the oil contained. Time to fab a remote-mounted PCV system.
First I removed the IM with 1/4" sockets and 6" extension. I didn't need to pull the rad or fans or EGR tube, although EGR tube removal helps with trial fitment process.
Decided to R&R the thermostat while I'm in there.
IM nipple is almost directly under #4 runner (I capped it in this pic with a heater hose bypass plug). Also note the new PCV with the heater hose sleeve. The new PCV will be jammed into an oil separator mounted on the fender behind the CAI.
I gutted the original PCV valve and stuck it back in its original location with the retaining ring. I attached a 5/8" silicone outlet hose which is safe for transferring oil vapor. I didn't want to use heater hose, nor did I want to use a smaller diameter hose or a hose without sufficient reinforcement. I used the same silicone hose for draining oil in a turbo system and it didn't let me down. The outlet hose from crank case to separator runs straight across the block, sits a little proud and is actually pinched slightly between the IM flange and the block once the IM is installed.
Keen eyes will notice I port-matched and blended the intake runners. I noticed a sharp edge on the floor of the intake ports that probably cause turbulence.
I bought a catch can with large (22mm) inlets - perfect for tapping 1/2" NPT. Note that crankcases require plenty of breathing capability. 5/8" hose may sound like overkill, but anything less than 1/2" is insufficient. Plus, the OEM PCV and IM nipple are each 5/8".
The PCV with hose sleeve barely fits inside the tapped oil separator. The separator's threaded outlet combined with the PCV's barb plus the pressure from the silicone hose means the PCV isn't going to fall out.
The new inlet hose/tube needs to snake from the oil separator around the block and starter motor.
I made an inlet tube out of copper tubing and silicone hose which routes from the new PCV in the separator to the nipple on the IM. The final version was a little different from the image below, but you get the idea.
Here's the revised inlet tube:
This job was a major PITA, but it fixes the issue, eliminates oil from entering the IM and facilitates future R&R of the PCV in under 5 minutes.
|11-10-2014 05:05 PM|
|11-10-2014 04:52 PM|
I tested my PCV Valve again by drawing air from it and it did not close when sucking fairly normally, like drinking a thick slushy -- it would close when sucking quicker, as after holding ones breath.
I did briefly try to remove it anyway hoping it'd be easy and then I could clean it. I did not succeed, but I did not try hard, in fear of breaking it and delaying finishing the job for even longer -- hopefully won't be paying for it a year from now.
I did put everything back together without many complications. Made a mistake of not using grease (silicone) on the PCV Hose, it was a pain to put onto the Intake Manifold (spit helped a bit). Might be better to install on the manifold first, seemed like it fit onto the Valve easier but that may well have been because it had been on the valve for a few days already and stretched out (during the process it came off the valve, but slipped back on easily). So the TIP might be to put both ends of your new hose onto something to stretch it out a bit. The clips on the Dorman hose are super handy, once clamps in position just pull off the red tab with long needle-nose pliers)
Another TIP: use a piece of stiff thin cardboard, like a cereal box, to make a tube just big enough for the manifold bolts to slide through it easily. Tape it securely. Wedge it into the hole for that hidden center bolt so it reaches the block and has a half-inch sticking out. Will post picture later (but here's a link). No need for taping the bolt to the socket in fear of losing it. The stiffness of the board keeps it straight and allows you to push the bolt through the whole using an extension (I used 1/4" socket for most of the bolts). I used the same cardboard for some of the other bolts where I feared dropping the bolt and having to fish for it.
Have more tips too I think (and some questions). Will post my own write-up with pics at my old thread and link here: http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/s...=491737&page=4
And... I should probably mention that my car didn't blow up. It runs and idles smoothly now! No check engine light (before had one for random misfires detected, cyl 1 misfires sometimes, and a lean reading from O2 sensor). No more misfires (well, there were a handful I saw via OBD tool, but maybe a misfire here and there is ok? Before the operation I'd have 50+, mostly on Cyl 1).
Thanks everybody for the help! Will continue following these threads in hopes I can pay it forward.
|11-07-2014 01:46 PM|
|sailor||Only pics I've seen of getting it out involved removing the oil separator to release it from inside...|
|11-07-2014 12:54 PM|
Clean it with Carb Cleaner, maybe even soak it in Carb Cleaner if you can. One FF here has been cleaning them (not replacing them) fer' 20+ years. He might have started cleaning them before the PCV was even invented.
Yes, it has already been said in this thread and in others-> the PCV is tuff to get out because the tabs do not push-in enough or at all... so the ring and tabs end up getting tweaked or even broken. I was very lucky that mine did not break. Once back together, I applied a little RTV around the base of the ring because I might have compromised the ability of the tabs/ring to lock-it down. The design wasn't really geared for R&R. This is why some people and shops replace the entire housing the PCV sits on.
|11-07-2014 07:34 AM|
Thanks for info. Is it possible to clean the existing one or does that mean I need a new valve to perform a "clean job"
Also, was it really difficult to remove? I've read it can be (maybe on dif engine), but shop manual says to just push in marked tabs...
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