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Topic Review (Newest First)
10-08-2015 01:22 PM
Dnap420 You don't have to swap the power steering pump or line to rack. All I did was grab the line coming from the Zyrtec power steering pump and cut it just past the right side of the valve cover (battery side) do the same with the spi (middle of the exhaust manifold) the cross those lines with a full steel Union (from the local hydrolic shop), about 25 bucks and since its steel your lines will burst way before that union does. That's what I did, sometimes it's better to leave the high pressure line on the rack cause if u start ******g with it then it might crumble like I did to me, anyways in Canada they don't check that for safety, cause if it where to say blow out, You can still turn of its own power, but I did that and hasn't leaked for a month just don't over tighten, get it tight take a drive and tighting only if needed. As for Transmission zetec auto has a different 1st gear but will bolt up no problem (5speed zetec have different tranny and I believe need to have flywheel changes so it mates properly. Interior wiring is different so heated seats/cruise control exact won't work without that harness changed. I did a complete swap interior but took the harness for when I get bored I can out it in one day and have all those features. ABS swap when I find a bother donor for hubs
01-23-2013 01:12 AM
Originally Posted by foucsrod View Post
Was there the same number of wires or did you just match color wires?
What do you mean? What wires?

The harness? You have to swap the harness and computer from the Zetec also. Then everything is there and match the plugs up. I looked at another zetec to see where all the plugs went on the harness.

I did a very complete how to do the swap after I was done. Its on here somewhere.

BTW have you seen my car lateley?

I am installing the Turbo this week. Already started.
01-22-2013 12:59 AM
After thought

Was there the same number of wires or did you just match color wires?
11-29-2011 09:07 PM
KUEHN8898 oh and engine bay looks great. i bought long tube header but still havent put it on. didnt wanna do right away so i could work out bugs if any. and i got a short ram intake i need to put on too.... i buy too many parts and let them sit lmao i have a stack of brand new shit for my mustang i bought 6 months ago.. but those got put on hold cuz like 3 days later the motor let go in focus so i guess thats why haha but looks great
11-29-2011 09:05 PM
KUEHN8898 to tell if it was bad i pushed down on mount while it was running and vibration stopped. but if you pull it out flip it over the edge will be pulled up away from it an flexes more than it should. new ones like 40 bucks at oriellys life time warrenty
11-28-2011 01:44 AM
J0EC00L If I could just get the power steering line above the header to be parallel with the valve cover it would look perfect

Ooohh baby, she's a runner! Next stop Lentech Street Terminator!
11-13-2011 02:23 AM
J0EC00L Hmm, motor mount eh. I'll look into that. I did get the motor mount for the swap from the junk yard.

Thanks for the info

Any way to tell if the mount is bad?
11-12-2011 11:26 PM
KUEHN8898 my car did that before the swap it was the passenger side motor mount. its liquid filled mount and all the liquid or oil whatever it is leaked out. took us forever to figure out that what it was
11-12-2011 11:17 PM
J0EC00L Motors in and runs good.

It does idle a little rough around I'm guessing 600-700 rpm but any thing over about 900 rpm it is smooth as silk.
Any ideas???

We are putting on a new IAC tomorrow and hopefully that helps.

We checked for vacuum leaks and found none. Its not terrible at idle but it does make your hands shake and as soon as you give it a touch more throttle it is smooth.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.
11-11-2011 12:29 AM

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