|02-22-2017 12:26 PM|
|02-22-2017 11:14 AM|
|sailor||SVT suspension is half an inch lower at the wheel, appreciably less difference at the bump stop, so that measurement or a little less would be close enough compared to tightening at full droop.|
|02-22-2017 08:59 AM|
Upon further reading in the OEM Factory Shop manual it mentions to fabricate a piece of steel stock to set the vehicle at the correct ride height. You have to put it on the bump stop and place it at the top of the sub-frame. Using a hydraulic jack you keep raising it the distance of the piece of steel stock. Well that's great but it doesn't ever mention the SVT specifically. The ZX3 ride height tool can't be right, can it?
Can anyone look to see if there is a mention of the SVT in the 2003/4 shop manual?
I'm going to go back to the SVT springs because these FRPP springs are a little too low for my taste.
|02-19-2017 10:00 PM|
|felixthecat||A alignment rack works great for that. I'd use jack stands as far out as you can to tighten them down. Your going to have to set the front & rear toe, so either you or the guy doing the alignment could make sure their tighten......|
|02-19-2017 09:40 PM|
Yes, final torque is supposed to be done with the suspension at normal ride height - whatever way you accomplish that.
The reason is that once torqued the inner sleeve of the bushings are locked in position, and there is NO twisting load on the rubber bushes at that time. As soon as the suspension moves, they get stretched/twisted to match. IF they start out at full droop of a jacked up car, they'll be highly loaded at normal ride height - even more when compressed by load or bumps. More stress that way than desired on the bushings, they aren't meant to act as springs and can give up early under the extra stress.
|02-19-2017 09:29 PM|
I'm in the process of changing out the bushings on my 2002 Ford Focus. I've searched and haven't been able to find a clear answer on how to torque down the rear suspension bolts. The Ford Factory manual states to wait until the wheel has load on it or something along the lines of that verbiage.
I'm not sure how to torque down the rear suspension components if it's supposed to have load on it. Will a jacking up the rear suspension arm be sufficient? Or do I need to put the car on ramps and crawl under and try to torque everything down with 0 clearance?
|06-28-2016 09:16 PM|
Hello, Felix you are a helpful Cat!
I have my rear control arm bushings gone and from reading a lot on here, I wish to know what is best to do, get the Prothane 6-307 is about the only ones I see that *could* work on my 09 SES, or just get the control arms whole and live with that.
Is it actually true the bushings are the same size from 00-11 ??
Why is this so difficult to find ?
|10-01-2015 12:10 AM|
|felixthecat||The rust sure doesn't help,,,,,,,,|
|09-30-2015 05:41 PM|
This is a known problem to brake on the cars when an upgraded sway bar is used and the soft suspension is still in place. you can purchase a new reinforced one for (IIRC they go for about $50-80 each).
If you have the tools to do the repair your self its just hard work due to rust. PB blaster is your friend.
Edit: is it like this picture?
|09-29-2015 10:44 PM|
Tryin 2 C if this thread relates to my catastrophic failure in the rear today... wheel is stuffed up into the wheel well, the outer end of a LOWER control arm type thing sits on the pavement. Can't get in there 'n look due to nominal hight of the rig currently. A small metal ring w/bushing inside broken off, rests on the pavement beside the rig.
Just posted a tech Q thread as I'm alone 'n of extremely low income but need to get going ASAP...
(3 months after last post above)
|This thread has more than 10 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.|