|02-20-2014 08:31 PM|
I would like to add some info to this thread incase someone reads this one and not any others. If anyone feels this should move to it's own thread please make me aware. I do not wish to thread jack, just wanted to add more info. If you only have a leak at the pipe where it goes into the union nut, or the nut itself, then this lil novel is for you.
If your union nut and pipe ONLY is what leaks, then you can unbolt only that nut and swap the nut itself. Move the coolant expansion tank outta the way. Move the ps reservior out of the way. Use a 8mm on the tensioner and take your belt loose. You WILL need a 18mm crows foot (as the op mentioned) and a couple of long extensions to unbolt the nut from underneath, unbolt the line 'holder' from the motor on top, so the line will wiggle well enough for ya, then wiggle it out from under the pump, and pull it up where you can work with the nut end on the radiator support. To get the old nut off of the pipe, I had to very precisely and carefully use a cutting wheel to cut around it where the brass locking ring is, (observe your new nut to see where you need to do your cut all the way around) until I reached the ring, used a tiny flat-head to break it off, then both pieces of the old nut will slide right off. The new nut slides on and clicks in place like buttah, then just bolt'r back up.
You do not need an o-ring in the pump for the union nut to tighten 'against', as shown above in this great write up. (Thank you for it!)
Ford does not have that in their parts diag or the procedures. My leak was bubbling from between the pipe and the union nut, so I bought the nut itself from Ford for 8 bucks. (Miracle that they sell it by itself) It comes with all the rings pre-installed on it that it requires. Buying this will keep you from having to buy and replace the whole line.
I would recommend removing the belt. As bad as that sucks, you will waste crazy time and effort trying to get the nut to 'start' unless you take the belt loose. Then you can get a proper grip on the nut with your fingers.
I also would like to reassure ppl that have to drive home with no ps that my pump survived just fine even though I drove 20-30 minutes with it totally empty. It made quite a bit of racket, so I figured it would need to be replaced, but it is quiet as a mouse again. After the union nut job was done, it was still very loud and I discovered I had two leaks. The dang ps switch on the pump was leaking out of the connector also. I swapped that, and THEN the ps pump was totally quiet like new. So look for that if your pump is still noisy after the nut swap. Thank you FLZ for chiming in earlier before I did this gig today.
|02-20-2014 03:07 AM|
|FLZ_Boy||The ATF fluid is cheap, fill and see what happens. The worst case scenario is getting a new PS and high pressure line (connects to the PS rack). I went to Autozone and paid less than $60 for a new pump and the line is close to $50 (I think that's the price...). After 30k miles, I'm impressed the AZ parts lasted......... for now.|
|02-19-2014 07:52 PM|
I apologize for revival of this thread, but may I ask if anyone out there had their pump live through a full dump of the fluid, to the point where you finished the drive home with no power steering?
Long story, but it dumped, I refilled to finish a small trip, it dumped again from full before I made it home. It was obviously making racket, but didn't sound like things were breaking, more of just a fine vibration. I have the leak from the ps line to the nut (upper black ring). I drove about 25 minutes with zero ps. Anyone else do that and the pump still work? Gonna put new ends on tomorrow, just curious if I HAVE to get a pump. Much thanks to everyone in this thread, great ppl on this whole forum!
|04-11-2013 09:53 AM|
|nvmaddog||Lifesaver man, thank you very much.|
|04-11-2013 09:46 AM|
|ALLTOOEZ||I found two options. First, you can order from the Ford dealer. They want $6.00 for one and $10.00 for the other. I was shocked that I would end up paying almost $20.00 with tax for two tiny orings. I know its not alot of money but its the principal of it. Thats just absurd!! The second option was to take off the two orings, and bring them to Napa auto parts. They had two large containers of orings .One was sae the other metric. I found two that were very close in size, ever so slightly larger than the stock ones. I did not record the sizes unfortunately. Removal is a pain but doable. I removed the dogbone mount for clearance. after puling the single bolt out of the mounting plate the lines pull right out. I made a small hook out of a large needle so i could remove the stock orings without tearing them. that way i could try to match them up better. Install is easier and just the reverse of removal. Leak fixed :) hope that helps.|
|04-11-2013 09:26 AM|
|03-07-2013 12:49 PM|
I had new o-rings come with my new line. I would imagine you could get them at a ford dealer, if not out of a assortment kit at a autoparts store. If all fails check out a hardwear store.
Sent from 34.0764° N, 118.4296° W
|03-07-2013 11:15 AM|
Power Steering leak
Hi, I have searched the various threads to no avail. I need to replace the little o-rings on the pressure and return lines at the rack. Where to get these? What size are they? The how-to sticky shows this as an optional step but thats where my leak is. Any info would be appreciated.
|02-19-2013 12:43 AM|
|stivo||almost done with this job... it's been a wrestling match the whole way. fun fun!|
|10-22-2012 12:08 AM|
I just did a zetec swap and I went and ordered a new line at the local parts store. It came with everything I needed to put it on. O-ring and everything. I found the most difficult thing to do when switching lines was getting the old line off the rack. Takes a lot of choice words and a pry bar for leverage and a hammer (also for leverage on the prybar). I think I paid 45ish bucks or something. You can get a much better price on rockauto.com, I just didn't want to wait to for shipping.
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