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|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|09-18-2013 03:59 PM|
|twiggss||in for later|
|08-01-2013 06:45 PM|
|kwg2371||bump for the newbs|
|10-28-2012 07:34 PM|
|rdaex||Ill be doing this soon, just picked up the Pioneer DEH4400HD for 68 bucks!!|
|10-15-2012 11:12 PM|
|10-13-2012 01:05 AM|
|mix1983||Don't run audio cables (speaker wire or RCA) along side power cables. You want to run audio cables down one side of the car, and power cables down the other. The audio cables will pick up interference from the power cables and you will get noise.|
|10-11-2012 06:25 PM|
|06-30-2012 12:14 AM|
|eriks02SVT||I tried this on my 02' SVT FOCUS and it's freakin awesome with base!!|
|12-08-2011 04:59 PM|
By using the shield of the RCA cable as ground, you eliminate the cables ability to filter RFI noise. So, if the only difference between the two above suggestions is that I am using a single RCA to run two output circuits wouldn't the extra 30 seconds required to run two RCA cables be worth my while due to RFI filtering ability?
The reason I ask is I have a hard time believing Sony would go through the trouble of putting a red SUB + and a white SUB - on the back of my headunit if all I need is one wire.
If it works it works, I'm just trying to figure out the difference between the two methods.
From what I gather is:
The pre amp outputs don't require hardly any current flow so by using only one RCA I am basically using the minimal amount of wire required. The sub pre amp - will be grounded at all times through the RCA shield circuit and the signal will travel along the RCA core providing sub pre amp +. The amp gets the signal and steps up the current to the magnet and thus runs the sub. If this is true, Ford just wasted their time and money making a dedicated pre amp - wire between the stereo and amp.
|12-08-2011 04:24 PM|
2. you only need ONE RCA to be spliced in and you can plug it in to either white or red output, it doesn't matter which one its plugged into (just make sure you understand what is positive an negative on the RCA cable)
3. in some circumstances you wont need a resistor (the way I have mine wired as shown in this how to, I don't get any kind of popping noise, most decks now a days have built in sub crossovers to where you can adjust them and there frequencies) you'll just have to take a look at the manual.
the one on my deck is accessed threw the main controls where I would adjust highs, lows, bass and treble ETC. I have the option to adjust from 50 -/+ 6, 80 -/+6, 120 -/+6
my best advice is if you can find someone parting out a junk SVT if they would be willing to chop off the stock wiring plug harness's so you don't have to hard wire directly to the deck
hope this helps
|12-08-2011 01:43 PM|
I'm in the process of doing this conversion as well. I bought a Sony DSX-S100 and I intend to incorporate my factory sub. I opted not to spend another $100 to make my steering wheel controls work.....yet.
Anyhow, I follow these instructions 100% with the exception of my sub + and -
My deck has 3 pairs of RCA jacks (one white end, one red end) on the back. One labeled "Front audio out" , another labeled "BUS audio in" and another "Rear/Sub audio out".
My front and rear speakers will be wired through the pigtail harness that also has my antenna, powers and grounds...right?
If I use the signal and sheild wires of a spare RCA cable as my sub + and -, which RCA cable labled "Rear/Sub audio out" do I plug the spare RCA cable into? Red or white?
Shouldn't I simply splice the WH/BK and GY/BK to the Red AND White RCA outputs?
I just don't understand why there are two sub output RCA cables but I would use only one. Is the red sub cable for aftermarket sub #1 and the white for aftermarket sub #2?
Also, I have heard that it is necessary to wire a resistor in series with the amp wake-up power (RD/WH) because otherwise I will get a popping noise from the sub when I turn the radio on/off. Does the factory sub run on 6v instead of 12v? If I need a resistor, how big? I've heard anywhere from 200 ohms to 1.5K ohms......
Another thing making this more difficult is that I'm replacing an aftermarket deck. The crappy Dual unit currently in the car is junk and the meathead who installed it didn't use an adapter plug. Little of the factory harness connector is intact. I'll be hard-wiring pretty much everything....
I'm really comfortable with DC electrical circuits but I haven't done a lot of car audio work so this is a bit new to me. I'm not familiar with crossovers and bridges and other popular aftermarket audio devices...so I'd like to make this work with as little modification as possible
Thanks in advance for the help!
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