|11-28-2016 12:54 PM|
Ok, maybe I should have unbolted it then :D
The car is now back on the road. I couldn't get into gear to move the car before bleeding. I had to have a mechanic friend to help me bleed it for 20 quid as it was evening, he had to get to the nipple from underneath front nearside. I still haven't seen it with my own eyes but he found it quite quickly.
After a very short time bleeding we tried to start up and the car wouldn't start! There was a continuous sound from the starter but no "turning over". It would struggle for a few seconds with the key on then give up. Pressed the key a few times and that didn't help. Hadn't fiddled with the ignition or anything, and after a while of turning the key it stuttered into life. Then the dude pumped the clutch a few times and messed about with the gears and got the clutch working. Not sure what happened there and all I can think is I spilled brake fluid or dropped one of the little clips somewhere vital.
The clutch now feels like it did before the leak, more firm. Job done for a grand total of 35 pounds.
|11-24-2016 12:53 AM|
Unbolting pedal bracket (without detaching anything or removing it) is what makes master cyl. assy. replacement possible and fairly easy (except for the crawl to reach it).
Removal & installation of the master would be very difficult without that step.
|11-23-2016 04:13 PM|
Managed it today! A 22 year old bird! And now I know what the term "PITA" means! Feeling proud of myself, all that's left to do is bleed it with my brother tomorrow. Currently wasn't enough pressure in the clutch to shift gear so had to push it out the garage. I will post update on bleeding tomorrow.
The bits I found difficult were...Most of it. Ha.
The easiest part was removing the thing itself, took no time at all and I didn't need to unbolt pedals or plastic bit under steering wheel. I didn't remove anything in the engine bay for access either!
Some notes on the UK model:
1. Steering column is an easy bolt off and push up and out of the way
2. The removing of the pipes was a nasty shock. I thought the higher pipe would lift up and out of the way. It doesn't, it's trapped under a pipe, probably aircon. Got fluid everywhere, a kink in the pipe, and had to shove it back in before I remembered you can use the white plugs in the new cyl to seal the pipe off.
3. The white plugs don't fit on the lower pipe, just the upper pipe. I wrapped foil around the lower one.
4. I could not unbolt the pedal block, the top left bolt was inaccessible but I don't believe this would have been necessary.
5. I still don't know how we fitted the new cylinder. It would not line up with the holes to bolt in because the two plastic protuberances would not fit in their slots! My brother forced it in in the end. Somehow!
6. Putting the clips on the new cylinder in engine bay once pipes are in. Is. A. Big pain in the bottom. There is a group of other pipes in the way and I could not unclip them.
We are going to do the two man bleeding technique, fingers crossed for success.
|03-29-2016 01:34 PM|
I'm planning on doing this on the weekend and wondered if it was worth the hassle of ording it online rather than picking up an all plastic one at my local parts store.
also just to triple check I have a 2004 ztw, the steps in the op should be the same for me?
|05-27-2015 02:37 PM|
My 0.02 after doing this job today.
- remove the pedal assembly as a whole with the CMC attached
- remove the airbox so that you can have room to manouvre the fuse box
My car was different from the OPs in that I have ABS. The ABS control unit sits directly in front of the CMC. The lower line from the CMC to the trans is a combination of hard piping and flexible hose. It was very difficult to remove and install, I would have greatly appreciated a 2nd set of hands. Also, after 12 years in Ontario the hard line looks terrible. I hope I didn't cause it enough duress to have a failure anytime soon. Replacing that line looks like a terrible job.
When it came to bleeding the CMC... I cracked the bleed screw and put a margarine tub and cardboard under the trans to collect the fluid. I couldn't figure out how to get a hose on the bleed screw :( I let it gravity drain for about 0.5l of fluid and then I closed it all up. I tested the clutch engagement point with the parking brake on, then drove the car. Everything feels OK, not fantastic, but the car never had a great clutch so I can't tell if it's worse or not!
|03-12-2015 03:13 PM|
I had a debacle with my slave cylinder a while ago. The bleeder valve broke off, bad line, leaking slave, stripped parts, and a bad master cylinder. From my (absolutely horrible) experience, if your planning on fixing a clutch/brake air problem, is to replace everything. There are many places you can have air being sucked in that won't let fluids out. I'd replace the clutch line from the master cylinder to the slave, the master cylinder itself, and go from there. If you do the work yourself you can have that done under $125. But changing the master can be major PITA. The clutch return spring is the worst thing to have to put back on. Once all that is done, bleed the clutch and the brakes again, be very careful with that slave cylinder bleeder valve. They can be brittle.
|03-12-2015 02:28 PM|
NOT fun in tight spaces, getting the clips off the pipes without dropping them was prob. the hardest part of the whole job.
I didn't need to remove anything else on the engine side of the wall, just the PITA line clips.
Different year/model, but a lot is the same.
|03-12-2015 02:21 PM|
|03-12-2015 01:27 PM|
|03-12-2015 12:31 PM|
pjnibs - with the two connecting to the same reservoir, and the pedals sharing mounts, hitting the brake prob. "wiggled" the clutch hose enough to let the bubbles from there travel to the reservoir.
Bleeding the clutch gives many a lot of grief, Had loads of fun with that myself even with a power vacuum bleeder. some have had to reverse bleed as the manual apparently suggests.
Syncityj - a clip holds the clutch cyl. to that fixed bolt in my case, prob. for most if not all.
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