|05-27-2015 02:37 PM|
My 0.02 after doing this job today.
- remove the pedal assembly as a whole with the CMC attached
- remove the airbox so that you can have room to manouvre the fuse box
My car was different from the OPs in that I have ABS. The ABS control unit sits directly in front of the CMC. The lower line from the CMC to the trans is a combination of hard piping and flexible hose. It was very difficult to remove and install, I would have greatly appreciated a 2nd set of hands. Also, after 12 years in Ontario the hard line looks terrible. I hope I didn't cause it enough duress to have a failure anytime soon. Replacing that line looks like a terrible job.
When it came to bleeding the CMC... I cracked the bleed screw and put a margarine tub and cardboard under the trans to collect the fluid. I couldn't figure out how to get a hose on the bleed screw :( I let it gravity drain for about 0.5l of fluid and then I closed it all up. I tested the clutch engagement point with the parking brake on, then drove the car. Everything feels OK, not fantastic, but the car never had a great clutch so I can't tell if it's worse or not!
|03-12-2015 03:13 PM|
I had a debacle with my slave cylinder a while ago. The bleeder valve broke off, bad line, leaking slave, stripped parts, and a bad master cylinder. From my (absolutely horrible) experience, if your planning on fixing a clutch/brake air problem, is to replace everything. There are many places you can have air being sucked in that won't let fluids out. I'd replace the clutch line from the master cylinder to the slave, the master cylinder itself, and go from there. If you do the work yourself you can have that done under $125. But changing the master can be major PITA. The clutch return spring is the worst thing to have to put back on. Once all that is done, bleed the clutch and the brakes again, be very careful with that slave cylinder bleeder valve. They can be brittle.
|03-12-2015 02:28 PM|
NOT fun in tight spaces, getting the clips off the pipes without dropping them was prob. the hardest part of the whole job.
I didn't need to remove anything else on the engine side of the wall, just the PITA line clips.
Different year/model, but a lot is the same.
|03-12-2015 02:21 PM|
|03-12-2015 01:27 PM|
|03-12-2015 12:31 PM|
pjnibs - with the two connecting to the same reservoir, and the pedals sharing mounts, hitting the brake prob. "wiggled" the clutch hose enough to let the bubbles from there travel to the reservoir.
Bleeding the clutch gives many a lot of grief, Had loads of fun with that myself even with a power vacuum bleeder. some have had to reverse bleed as the manual apparently suggests.
Syncityj - a clip holds the clutch cyl. to that fixed bolt in my case, prob. for most if not all.
|03-12-2015 11:52 AM|
|Syncityj||I found the bolt, why wouldn't I have to remove the bolt? It holds the clutch master cylinder to the fire wall.|
|03-12-2015 07:19 AM|
|Nmarzoli04||Although come to think of it, I didn't think you had to remove that bolt at all during the process|
|03-12-2015 07:17 AM|
|03-11-2015 07:48 PM|
|Syncityj||Does anyone know where I can pick up a replacement bolt? The one that mounts to the firewall? I've seem to misplaced mine, and I can't, for the life of me, remember where I put it, or the size.|
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