|Today 08:04 AM|
|Yesterday 09:08 PM|
The reason if the "lever breaks and no code" is because the position sensor is in the IMRC box. As long as the box is working it wont throw any codes, even if it's hooked up to anything or not.
|Yesterday 08:46 PM|
It's been a while since I've done, I remember the annoying part of having to "hammer" it on in a limited space. Tapping on it cuts new splines in the lever. Also shifting into a certain gear moves the shifter linkage out of the way for more working room in that area.
|Yesterday 06:49 PM|
|reddy1||Awesome thanks sniper! So I kinda assumed it was broken/ hoped because I didnt want to open up the actual irmc. So I actually got a billet one from cfm can you give me pointers on how to take the old one off and where the wire attaches to the new one is the plastic do-hicky what I put in the lever or?|
|Yesterday 06:06 PM|
CFM Billet Intake Manifold Lever for '02-04 SVT/ST170 Focus
I don't know if you can get the original plastic one from Ford, if so it might not be too much cheaper. I had the billet one on my car for a few years.
|Yesterday 05:59 PM|
I got this car used I am trying to figure out what the heck the last guy did the electric connection was pulled out of the imrc and so I have been trying a bunch of stuff I have some pictures of the current state trying to figure out if the original clip is broken or what (wondering if maybe its just fine and they unattached that too) because if so I need to figure out how to attach it. ( I have never seen it attached since I got it used and cant find any close ups of this) and I also probably just need to do the normal pull everything apart and sand the piece that normally gets messed up. Any help would be super awesome thank you.
I figure people on this post should be able to clarify this for me thank you all for
|05-23-2015 01:01 PM|
Hey everyone, I own Ford Focus ST170 (2003) and since a long time I am facing IMRC problem too. The only code that comes up is P1518. I already tied a few attempts to fix it, no luck so far.
1. Firstly I replaced one of the famous transistor inside the IMRC. No problem for about a month, then P1518 came back. At the beginning the check engine light was coming back every few days. 2 days - no problem, then again check engine light for next 3 days. And again and again. What I'm trying to say is that the issue wasn't permanent.
After few more months the check engine light stayed and never went back. After removing the error code it comes back always after about 50km or 3rd engine start.
2. So I sent my IMRC for a regeneration. A lot of parts inside were changed for new ones. Regenerated IMRC was tested on the other vehicle and everything was fine. But after placing it in my car the check engine came again. So basically no difference.
3. Then I asked electrician to check the wires. He checked all IMRC cables, including the signal cable that goes to the driver. Everything is fine.
* IMRC is fine
* Cables are fine too
What else can be wrong? Broken lever? Something else? I've seen an opinion somewhere that "If it's throwing a code it's a bad IMRC, if the lever breaks you don't get a code". That confused me a lot.
Any opinions/solutions? Thanks in advance!
|08-23-2014 08:02 AM|
|01blksvt||just want to say thank for this thread my imrc cable got some battry acid dripped on it where it runs under battery box and was split in two didnt know my car running so poorly though until the imrc box started making a grinding noise every time i drove it thought my car lost power because we moved to 8k ft above sea levelhttp://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_smile_duh.gif lol|
|05-17-2014 07:49 PM|
hey guys, I want to add a little info to this thread to save some headaches for the next person who has to do it. This is to show you how to figure out what is wrong with your IMRC once you open it up.
1. rotate the gears so the cable is pulled in.
2. Measure the circled points with a multimeter or ohm meter for resistance.
A. IF they measure 0ohms, relax! you do NOT have to desolder the pcb and remove it. The contact is not corroded to the point that it increases resistance. Your problem is elsewhere. Go to step 3.
B. IF they do not give a measure, the circuit is broken and there is no contact between the two points. Go to step 3.
C. IF they measure in excess of 0ohms, the connection needs to be cleaned to make a good connection. Desolder the 6 pin connector, remove the PCB from the box, and clean the contact as shown in post #1. Now test the points again. Should be 0ohms. Now, once this is done, it does not necessarily rule out further issues. You may need to continue to step 3 still.
3. You're issue is not the contact on the reverse side of the PCB! Good news, you do not have to desolder and remove the PCB. However, you have an issue with a circuit on the board, most likely a cold solder joint. Use your multimeter to measure resistance between points in line. They should have zero ohms of resistance unless they are going through a resistor. In my case, I had 5 cold solder joints that showed no connection at all. Pictured below are the joints that were bad on mine:
The 2 points on the 331 resistor as well as the 3 points on the black chip that resistor goes to were all bad connections. Everything else checked out fine. I do not know if this will be a trend, or if the cold solder joints will be random, but it seems coincidental that all 5 bad points are essentially in the same circuit of the board, so I would check them first to rule them out. Reflow the solder and retest for resistance. Should have zero ohms if you follow the circuit correctly.
hope this helps!
|05-07-2014 01:58 AM|
|Fierceintent||Changed my imrc today and it made a difference. Only problem I encountered was trying to remove the air box, Make sure to just pull really hard straight. I thought it was bolted. Also getting the old cable off the plastic, I just got some pliers and broke the tabs. Gas milage is up. Thanks for write up!|
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