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Topic Review (Newest First)
08-03-2016 11:50 AM
blazindave Haven't quite found my exact symptoms on here yet, could use some help...

2003 ZX5
had a bad clockspring for a long time (years) that made my airbag light always lit (and likely inoperational) and cruise control didn't work. finally when I noticed the horn stopped working, I replaced the clockspring and all was well (fixed airbags, cruise, and horn).

Not too long after that got replaced, the cruise started only working intermittently (horn and airbag seems to still work so I'm guessing the replacement clockspring is still good).

Most times I try to engage CC it doesn't work, but sometimes it does. I have replaced the high center brake light with LEDs (regular tail lights are regular bulbs). Had the intermittent CC both before and after the LED change. Seems if it were caused by the LED change then it should never be working.

Tried the diagnostic and I got a light after each button press (including Set), but then no flashes. so does that count as 1 flash (for the one after Set) or no flashes? Also, I did hear the stepper/servo noise followed by thud, as described by some others.

So my initial thought is that it's my steering wheel switches. When I was investigating my previous clockspring replacement, I seem to recall that each switch set (left on/off and right resume/set/cruise) only used 2 or 3 wires and the resistance between them changed depending on the button pressed... Like total of 4 or 5 wires being used instead of 1 common and then 1 signal wire for each switch (5 switch signal wires + 1 common = 6 wires). Does this sound right? If so, can someone tell me what the correct resistances (and between which wires) I should be reading from each button press?

Could one of the brake switches be sticky or would that show up in the diagnostic as a different flash sequence?
03-29-2016 11:51 AM
sparky34kv Is there a clip or something to keep the plastic at the end of the cable on the attachment point on the throttle? I fixed mine a couple of weeks ago when I found it had just come off. It worked great, kept the speed exactly where it was set. The next time I went to use it it was a no go.
03-27-2016 01:41 PM
VapeGamer Tried procedure, got 0 flashes after (successful test). I've seen quite a few people mention brake light issues causing CC to not function. Anyone have a knowledge of the operating parameters to tell me whether LEDs would cause the same effect? Full LED conversion in the rear end on mine, bulbs only. In addition, my valve cover gasket has been a gremlin for the past couple months (I've had it off several times), and only noticed CC not working after this. I'd be more knowledgeable about the CC system, but I'm an Acura tech, haven't seen a cable CC to diag in a long time.
03-16-2016 08:27 PM
ohlingerrh I'm in the same boat with an electrical problem in the cruise control operation. The quick fix is no help because I have no response at all. I have checked with Ford dealers and all they would say there is a problem in the drivers wheel well. No guesstimate about the cost to repair. ray
03-16-2016 11:45 AM
Switched the Switch--No dice

This post is really helpful--thanks! After running the diagnostic I figured it was the brake deactivation switch (which is green btw). But it's still showing three flashes when I run the test, and of course no cc. Frustrating. I wonder if I'm a.) misreading 2 as 3 flashes (the flashes start up pretty soon after hitting set but I may be misinterpreting). Or, if the circuits are messed up. Has anyone figured out how to fix/replace damaged circuits?
03-16-2016 11:44 AM
Originally Posted by 6SPD_soul View Post
I just had some issues with my CC and have sorted that out, but I found there is a really slick self diagnostic procedure for the cruise control. You don't need a diagnostic scanner to do this either, just the car. From what you describe I think the cruise control servo (motor with a spool of cable that controls the throttle body for CC) is bad, but this test will tell you for sure where the problem lies. This self diagnostic test will work on all Foci from 00-05, in addition to many other Ford models in those years.

The test is basically this: you're going to be turning the ignition key on and off repeatedly and then hitting the cruise control buttons quickly in a specific sequence, and then the cruise control light will blink repeatedly, and the number of blinks tells you where the fault is. It's easy to do once you get it sorted in your head and you won't mess anything up if you don't get it right the first time.

If it's a manual, don't depress the clutch. If it's an automatic leave it in park. First, turn the ignition to the accessory/run position but don't start it. Press and hold the CC off switch and then repeatedly turn the ignition from run to off and back to run again, you should do this 3 or 4 times. End this sequence with the ignition in the run position and then let go of the off switch, and you should see your CC light blink once, which means it's ready to run the self diagnostic. If it flashes 5 times at this point then it's a faulty speed control module, which is that servo I mentioned above. Quickly after the light blinks (like a second after), you then need to hit the other cruise control buttons in this order, and you will need to hit them fairly quickly for the test to proceed:

1. On
2. Resume
3. Coast
4. Set/accel

The CC light should blink once after each button you hit. Kind of take your time hitting the buttons and it's easier to keep track of the flashes, which is important at the end because you need to count the number of flashes that come after you hit "set". There won't be an immediate flash after you hit "set", there will be a slight delay, and then will come another short series of flashes. This next part is all verbatim (except for the parenthesis) from the Ford guide I'm translating here.

0 Flashes (no flash after last button is pushed): suspect circuitry or speed control steering wheel switches.
1 Flash: Static test passed (cruise control should work)
2 Flashes: BPP (brake pedal position) switch is damaged, circuit is damaged, or the brake or clutch pedal was applied during test.
3 Flashes: Brake deactivation switch is open or circuit is damaged.
4 Flashes: Indicates the speed signal circuit is open or damaged (wheel speed sensors, ETC)
5 Flashes: Suspect circuitry or module.

So I guess try to run the test. It's pretty quick and easy once your thumbs get the button sequence down. Then you should at least have a better idea where the problem is coming from. Post back here with results, I'm curious where the problem is for you. Mine was the brake deactivation switch which I'm putting in soon.
This post is really helpful--thanks! After running the diagnostic I figured it was the brake deactivation switch (which is green btw). But it's still showing three flashes when I run the test, and of course no cc. Frustrating. I wonder if I'm a.) misreading 2 as 3 flashes (the flashes start up pretty soon after hitting set but I may be misinterpreting). Or, if the circuits are messed up. Has anyone figured out how to fix/replace damaged circuits?
08-16-2015 06:32 PM
Codyfox Thank You 6SPD_Soul for the diagnostic test. I had a bad brake cutoff switch. I was able to buy the part from the Ford dealer for $26 and replace it myself.
08-14-2015 10:46 PM
sailor I've read of cases when it didn't work with third brake light bulbs out, did you fix that yet?

VSS code might be lack of signal to the cruise unit, check/clean connector for luck first.
08-14-2015 02:21 PM
2000 SE wagon automatic CC still not working

Have read all the posts and still not found the problem, have done the following:
1. Check lite flash during test - had 4 flashes which states VSS signal problem. (never heard or felt any motors or noises during test. Speedo, horn & turns work, lite comes on when set pushed(so switches appear to work).
2. 3rd brake lite had 3 of 5 bulbs burnt out, all brake lites work and does not stay on when pedal up (dont think switch is the problem).
3. Performed cable check and is not broken only moves about 1/8 inch
With speedo working dont think VSS is the problem!
Does anyone have the flow chart for further diag?
Anyone have the wiring diagram for the CC?
Can the actuator/module be checked with a DVOM or just pull it apart to check for gear or motor problem?
But if actuator the problem why 4 flashes?
This is all electronic so no use of vacuum!
Any help would be appreciated!
07-30-2015 01:48 PM
Dool3839 Wish this worked for '12 model...
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