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Thread: tczx3's complete how-to on front wheel bearing replacement Reply to Thread
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Topic Review (Newest First)
10-11-2013 11:12 AM
Lscman
Quote:
Originally Posted by WrinkledCheese View Post
Without a hydraulic press, what can be done?

[edit]

Will this type if "hydraulic press" work?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wqtdfb1dJ5I
As others have posted, the bearings are extremely tight fit. Rust on older cars make it worse. My press is 12 ton from harbor freight which cost about $125. It was pushed to the brink of it's rating to bust the old bearings loose on my 2007 with very little rust. Also the spindle assembly is very large and oddly shaped, so the working surface of the press needs to be wide. A cobbled up setup with less than 10 ton rating will likely not work. The solution is to flush at least $100 for a big hydraulic press or find a shop with skills to do it.
10-07-2013 08:51 PM
WrinkledCheese Without a hydraulic press, what can be done?

[edit]

Will this type if "hydraulic press" work?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wqtdfb1dJ5I
07-13-2013 11:35 AM
lmcd314 i got the code c1233 left front no signal, im starting to think these guys put the bearing in backwards but of course i guess ill have to take it all apart to find out....
07-12-2013 04:47 PM
lmcd314
wheel bearing

just finished front left wheel bearing, had trouble getting ABS sensor back in. opened up the haynes manual and realized i never checked the c clip. got it all back together and now the ABS light is on...... i bought a "national" bearing and when i checked the clip i noticed the logo could be seen on the bearing on the "car" side of bearing. i'm hoping it was put in the right direction, or possibly i was too aggressive with sensor... tried clearing the light with the old "unplug the battery" method (no luck) next ill use the part store's code scanner to clear. the car makes no more noises bearing glides smooth. any help appreciated. thanks
07-10-2013 11:13 PM
DoctorJ Last week i replaced both Axles, both trans seals, both hubs, and both wheel bearings. New trans fluid as well.

Here's what I used:

Axles: Cardone Part #'s 662143 & 662144 from Rockauto.com (Rock Auto lists the 662143 as being for the 4spd Auto trans BUT according to Cardone's website, this fits the 5 speed as well. http://www.cardone.com/find-parts/ve...ocus&year=2001

Hubs & Bearings: CENTRIC 40361001E from Rockauto.com

Trans seals: NAPA (don't have the part numbers off hand)

Trans fluid: Motorcraft XT-M5-QS

Notes: The axles come with new axles nuts, and so do the hub/bearing kits. So i have extras. The passenger side axles has a new carrier bearing already attached. The bearings were black on BOTH sides.

My install was pretty easy. Actually the hardest part was getting the old trans seals out. I assume they were original. The dealer had to special order the trans fluid, but likely they were too stupid to charge me for both bottles of it. So i got 2 bottles for $22 roughly. The dealer also didn't have the trans seals, so I got them over-nighted from NAPA.

I took the spindles/hubs/bearings to work and pressed them out on a 15 ton press. Would have been super easy had i soaked them in PB Blaster. The snap rings were the hardest part to get out actually.

I noticed the holes where my caliper guide pins screw into; were looking pretty bad from rust. I drilled them out, welded them, drilled and tapped again. New guide pins fit great now.

I used lots of high temp Moly lube on the hub/bearing/axle side.

The new trans fluid is 100% better than the old gunk that was in there.
07-10-2013 09:47 PM
amc49 The black side is indeed the correct one for sensor to read, the other side can be many colors but not black.
07-10-2013 02:29 PM
Lscman I noticed that aftermarket bearings for '00-'07 Ford Focus come with end seals in varying colors. Also I noticed that Ford sells two front bearings, one for ABS cars and one for no ABS. Aftermarket bearings don't specify ABS or not, so I am guessing they are all ABS-ready. However that might not be true!

The Timken bearings come with a red seal on one side and black on the other side. TCZX3's fine write-up for an ABS car shows black seal inward toward the circlip. This worked for him so the orientation was obviously correct, but unfortunately, there is no mention of the bearing manufacturer used.

I sure hope the rule of thumb that "the black seal points inward, toward the transmission halfshaft, circlip and ABS sensor" is true for Timken!! The bearing manufacturers don't seem to provide this information, so it's a bit of a potshoot.
07-09-2013 12:37 AM
Lscman I used the original bearing as a drift to press the new bearing OD shell into the spindle. The hole in the spindle is not press fit sized on the inboard side of the retaining circlip. It is larger than necessary so the drift does not get stuck at all.

Also I'd like to state that my 2007 bearing and hub were easily pressed out with my $120 10 ton hydraulic press. I'm sure some folks with 10yr old rusted cars may need a 15 or 20 ton press, but mine was not the least bit rusty on the od or id of the bearing shell. This, despite running the car every winter on salted roads.
07-06-2013 03:45 PM
Andrews-bad-SE Cool write up! I remember doing this to a customers Focus a while ago at work. You're right about that rust belt thing. I had to get a couple grade 8 bolts to replace the BJ pinch bolts on the LCA. :/ I'm gonna send a link of this over to my buddy, who's struggling with is but refuses to let me help... lol.
07-05-2013 10:13 AM
Lscman will do, thanks
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