|10-26-2010 09:51 PM|
|forcedfocus||you need the poly control arm bushings more than anything else. Do that first and see where you are.|
|10-25-2010 08:16 PM|
maybe you should take a stock passanger side motor mount bracket: slot the holes where it attaches to the frame, see if the bottom mount will line up better, weld a washer to the passanger bracket so it will stay in place (or something?), and then try it out.
I broke my trans bracket once; I think it happened when I swapped mounts, because I had it in too much of a bind.
|10-25-2010 11:22 AM|
|focuzed1||i have always thought that my alignment of my motor is incorrect due to it is so hard to get the dogbone mount to line up to change it.. but even with the dog bone mount out i can not move it by hand.. now when it is broken i cannot get on it due to the whole engine and everything shakes really bad so i have to baby it to get it home.. and maniac i disagree with it being a blessing.. here is the way i see it.. the probelm is still to weak of other problems with other things.. i am pushing close to 5x the power out of this car than comes stock right.. so my goal is to make the parts so that the parts can handle the power.. otherwise what is the point of having that kind of power.. that is the reason i didnt push the power higher.. i cant hook up what i have.. so until i can hook up the 408whp and 415wtq i will not go higher.. but i keep breaking this part and other cars in my power are not.. the only thing i can see different is either my driving.. or the amount of tq i have.. most people even at my power level done have my tq.. so its investigation time.. and possible fabrication time so this is no longer a problem...|
|10-25-2010 08:01 AM|
|Roushturboedzx3||Guys not everything breaks parts will hold up to the power and be perfectly fine. but see if you can get a in car view of how you drive, might be a problem might not|
|10-25-2010 05:54 AM|
All three mounts are to blame. The dog bone mount happens to be the one to break first, which means the other two must have a significant amount of play to allow for the additional flexing when the dog bone mount breaks and he's able to keep driving.
If he only makes the dob bone mount solid with the other two squish and they permit flex, then he'll just bust the bracket again and again.
Make all 3 solid and don't look back.
Don't leave a weak link.
|10-25-2010 05:34 AM|
breaking the bracket might actually be a blessing. that part was made to be the weak link for a reason. thats why it is so cheap to replace. im not saying that $40 doesnt add up after awhile but you need to think. if you strengthen that to a level to where it is literally unbreakable then what is the next weak link in line? the transmission case itself. im pretty sure that costs more than $40 to replace. your idea about using half a dozen places around the engine and tranny to brace it might work fine if it evenly distributes the load but i would be careful with that. im not sure if i would go quite that far just yet.
ive been thinking about this a pretty good bit since yesterday. there has to be something causing the engine/tranny to twist more than it should. especially since you have already verified that people with nearly identical and higher power numbers than yours are going out and launching harder and pushing their cars harder without breaking that part. there is something specific to your car that is not right and is causing this problem and adding more parts to the car that are not present in other setups that work probably wont solve it. im not saying that traction bars wont help but i doubt they will stop it completely. you know you have a small amount of adjustment with the top motor mounts where you can scoot the engine around the bay an inch or two in any direction... maybe they arent aligned properly. or another possibility might be with the dogbone mount itself. you said you have torn up the bushings in the dogbone on several occasions and that they are poly bushings. has one or both of the bushings in the dogbone been torn up every time you've broken the bracket? if so then the engine would have about an inch or two of free play where it can snap back and forth along a break/crack in the bushing and that snapping motion would be most severe on a hard launch or when changing gears hard. i did this on one occasion and it was the only intellectual solution i could draw because after i fixed the mount i never had the problem again. get into contact with top speed. they are developing solid motor mounts. see if you can snag a solid dog bone from them and try it then. if you still break the bracket then at least you know that isnt your problem and im sure if you wanted you could turn around and sell the mount for as much as you have in it. there are always people on here who are asking for solid motor mounts.
|10-24-2010 06:42 PM|
|Roushturboedzx3||Honestly on my 1.9 60ft I didn't preload or anything. I let the clutch out slow until I feel it grab and then let it out pretty fast. My next dragstrip I will be much more aggressive and on the 2-step|
|10-24-2010 02:52 PM|
|focuzed1||so what do you do to get it out of the whole that quick and not break stuff.. you not too far behind my power level.. and i have broken these parts on the low setting which you are higher than my low setting.. i mean i preload the drive train and that seems to help a bit but it still breaks.. alot.. i think its mainly when i go from 1st to 2nd..|
|10-24-2010 02:49 PM|
|focuzed1||my down pipe is right in the way of the middle bar.. and i dont want to change my down pipe.. the way it is run i have cold ac and good spool time on the turbo.. i love the way it performs.. its perfect in my opinion.. just need more traction..and it would be cheaper for me to modify the traction bars..|
|10-24-2010 02:41 PM|
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