|11-24-2013 06:57 PM|
|11-24-2013 06:11 PM|
Thanks for the reply Missourileo, I have a written procedure that came with the new timing belt and I also have the factory shop manual and a Haynes manual.
I must admit, I'm a big wuss and it got cold here, so I put this off till today. Still around the freezing point and I am doing this in the driveway.
So, end result is my Focus is now running. I acquired it with a jumped timing belt, so this is good progress. I did not loosen the camshaft sprockets and in my opinion, there is no need to do so if the cams remain in time with each other. Looks like mine jumped a couple cogs at the crank and when reassembled and spun over a few times, everything checked out. Cams were lined up correctly with TDC. I used the dial indicator method to find TDC. Again, my opinion, but I feel this is more accurate than the TDC stop plug. Either method would work fine in most cases.
Some things I noted;
There was some discussion in the Haynes manual about removing the inner wheel well for access. This was of no value with my 2002 SE wagon. I can't vouch for all years and body styles. Removing the RF wheel is required.
The torx fastener on the middle cover under the water pump pulley is a PITA. Clearance is not enough for a torx bit on a ratchet. I used a bit and a 5/16 wrench. Reassembly is also a point for best judgement as there is no clearance for a torque wrench. There is some room available by raising or lowering the engine after the mount is removed.
I used a 3/16 bar with a hacksaw blade to take up the slack to lock the cams into position. The Haynes manual says the correct thickness is 5 mm.
I did need to lock the crankshaft in order to torque the crank bolt. I did this by inserting a socket extension bar through the camshaft sprocket spokes and having an assistant hold the bar down against the head while I torqued the crank bolt. An assistant is pretty handy when you are reinstalling the serpentine belt as well.
Entire job took about 3 hours and I didn't even have to use all the cuss words in my vocabulary.
|11-17-2013 04:25 AM|
I have heard some say they never had to loosen the cam gears when changing the belt, but in my case my timing belt went out upon loosing several dozen teeth and the crank was not inline with the cams. Additionally, despite all my efforts with the tensioner I could not get the new belt tight enough since it would not lineup perfectly with the cam gears. There was about 1 tooth of slack the fell in between the cam gears due to this reason, loosening them up allowed me to get it right on the money.
Follow the guide, take you time, use fail safes like a dial gauge in conjunction with the guided methods, and triple check all your work and you should be home free. After all, it would be no fun doing this job twice.
|11-16-2013 09:54 AM|
|Missourileo||The timing bar and pin are used for a reason. They are cheap and easy to acquire. You might want to check for valve damage due to the slipping. I have the ford workshop instructions for this procedure, if you want I can send it to you.|
|11-16-2013 09:39 AM|
Just joined this forum after reading this excellent thread. I am about to change the timing belt on my newly acquired 2002 Focus and I also have some concerns about the need to reposition the cam sprockets. Everything I read says this is to ensure proper belt tension, but I would think belt tension is set by the belt tensioner? Cam sprocket position will affect cam timing, but not belt tension.
In my case, I acquired the car not running and I found the timing belt had slipped at the crankshaft allowing the cams to be retarded by about 30 to 40 degrees. The cams are in time with each other. What I plan to do is rotate the engine till I can insert the cam timing bar, remove the timing belt, rotate the crankshaft till #1 piston is at TDC, install the new belt, remove the cam timing bar, rotate the crank twice to let everything settle in and recheck with the timing bar if the cams are still in time with #1 piston TDC. Since this was previously a running engine I would expect everything would still be in time if the cam sprockets have not been moved or loosened. If there is a problem, now would be the time to make any adjustments, at least in my opinion.
Another concern is finding TDC. All info points to the pin as the recommended and most accurate method, but I see the pin as a precision component and length is critical. 63.4 mm according to my Haynes manual. If quality control of the pin from some sources is questionable, (as some info suggests), or if the pin is not fully inserted, TDC would not be accurately located. Would it not be better to use the old school method of a dial indicator in the #1 sparkplug hole? A dial indicator on the crank would help eliminate any error from the dead zone of piston travel at TDC.
Sorry about the long post from a newbie, but searches were not bringing up specific answers. Thanks for your patience.
|11-10-2013 05:42 AM|
When I changed mine, with the help of this thread, back in March I used a big crescent wrench on the flat part of the cams, which is located 2 or three lobes from the cam gears. May not be the proper or best way, but it worked for what I had available at the time. It was also better than breaking the cam as others have stated.
You can see what I talking about in the pic. This was shortly after I got the car, and as you can see by the dry rotting it was in dire need of a timing belt. You should have seen all the teeth missing off it.
|10-29-2013 12:18 AM|
I made almost a carbon copy of that tool, what Ford uses..........
and you NEVER tighten up with tool in cam slots, best way to break the back of cam off in pieces I know. I use Home Depot 3/16" keyway material, if you get stupid and turn cams with it in, it is soft enough that it just rolls up like a pretzel. Don't ask how I know LOL...................
Keyway stuck in plus a .012" or .013" feeler gauge on both sides makes a perfect slipfit tool and maybe $4 for the keyway. I use Autozone feeler gauge set that quickly unscrews to separate the gauge blades, they can be used to replicate tools of all kinds.
|10-28-2013 11:49 PM|
Not sure if anyone posted this trick or not. It's not hard to make a tool to hold the cam gears in place while you tq the cam bolt. You could use the cam timing bar to hold them but I wouldn't suggest it.
Here is the tool that I made, cost me $10-15 and took 10 minutes to make.
Worked like a charm. rest it on your shoulder and torque away at the nut. Ether that or brace it against the rad support/firewall.
It also comes in handy for some motor bike and snowmobile clutch removals.
These Camshaft gears are a very poor design. Not sure why they didn't make them with a keyway.
|10-28-2013 11:17 PM|
Uhh..... my assumption was that you CAN torque the bolts with the timing bar installed as a type of fail-safe IF it slipped a bit, the bar is in the way to catch any movement that MAY occur.
I recall having the bar in.... torquing the bolts then when its all tightened up taking the bar out. Also make sure the cams are the correct way, the bar only goes in 1 way (though looks like it goes in VERY tightly if they are upside town but wont...)
|10-28-2013 01:44 PM|
I'm using the OTC 6486 set http://www.amazon.com/OTC-6486-Tool-.../dp/B000RF9YA0
My bar is a tight fit and when I remove the bar to torque the bolts, (using vise grips on the cam against the block) and re check, the bar wont go back in even though they a tiny bit off. I know you are not supposed to torque the bolts with the timing bar installed but I'm having difficulty keeping the cams from moving while torquing.
Any ideas? Or can I assume it is timed since the crank is hitting the pin and using line of sight, they appear to be level? I will try to rotate the engine a few times to see if it ever lines up correctly.
Thanks for any help,
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