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Thread: Common Ford Focus Transmission Problem, How to fix Reply to Thread
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Topic Review (Newest First)
Today 04:47 PM
amc49 I don't hesitate to reuse ATX oil at all IF IT'S GOOD AND CLEAN.

Driving 2K on no OD didn't hurt anything by itself, old school cars drove without any OD at all and the trans ratio was still 1 to 1 like these are in 3rd gear. The fluids lasted 60K doing that and these use synthetic which goes even longer. The old school trannies also slipped converter all the time, these lock it with a clutch and that lowers trans fluid heat tremendously. Heat is what turns the fluid from red to orange and then brown to be dark.

If the problem is 3 to OD shift then servo piston can break loose its' pin to do that or servo may simply need another longer band bolt, it has worn band enough so that it slips slightly and both issues can be erratic. Bolt on the other end of band from servo comes in slightly different lengths to do that, but common for trans shops to tell you you need a new trans in lieu of that quick fix, it makes them far more money. Both 3 and 4 use the direct clutch pack too, high mileage trans end cover wear can make for direct clutch hydraulic circuit leaks that produce that slip occasionally. Usually reverse suffers first but not always.

PCM can only point towards solenoid issues because that is the only thing that can be electrically detected, it cannot deduce exact mechanical problems. When a solenoid code pops up, it should be more widely interpreted as could be anything that solenoid plays with including hard parts, the wiring to the solenoid could easily be frayed or broken internally as well.

Look up my posting on how to get key to turn on forever after it starts not turning on, after lock cylinder is in your hand 30 seconds of work and zero $$$ to fix it pretty much forever. DON'T wait until it won't come out, you may have to drill it out then, most do. better done before it becomes a problem.

I as well personally remove the solenoid under the shifter, whoops! missing parts cause no problems.......................
Today 02:05 PM
Marde
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ex-Calif View Post

When I get settled into housing here I will likely do the Sol A, Filter and fluid again. I think things got gunked up with 2,000 of no OD driving. If that doesn't clear the slipping shift (and bury the emotion light fault for good) I wll probably do Sol C and see if that does it. It is so easy to open the pan up I will hold rebuying the $200 Sol C in reserve.
Hi, welcome to FF.

If me, and doing it a second time, I would buy the whole kit $159 (LINK) and replace all 6 solenoids. No sense (to me) in buying another SSA or $200-SSC from your local Ford dealer.

Classic bad SSA symptoms are sometimes fixed after second repair effort by replacing SSB. Do not remember if someone got a second-effort fix with SSC replacement, but it too is a player during EPC control verses throttle position. Your slips/failures do seem like they are showing up at some and not all throttle demands tho....

GL.
Today 10:09 AM
Ex-Calif Bought a 2000 Focus SE Wagon VTEC with 120k on the clock in January. I joined today to give a shout out to everyone who has posted their experience, especially OP for the original codes and troubleshooting advice.

I left the car with my son until March. Due to a work transfer I needed to drive it from Ca to Ohio by March 22. I arrived Friday the 13th planning to leave Sunday for a leisurely cross country...

On saturday afternoon my son drove us cross town for some shopping and I noted the enigne RPM very high and the emotion light set. I found this forum in January when fixing the "cruise control inop due to third light wiring issue" (nailed it) and got the hit for the transmission. I asked my son if the light had come on before and he said, "Yeah on and off all the time." Basically he had driven it mostly on the freeway with no OD! Also when the emotion light is set the cars slips the 3-4 shift.

So I delay the trip start to Tuesday ad get a Sol A and FIlter kit. I replace it on Sunday and the fault clears. An early poster reused his fluid and I did the same - bad idea... In hindsight my son put on about 2,000 miles with no OD and had cooked the fluid. It was not really a good pink color but kinda dark. A reaxamination of the first filter showed it pretty dirty but no metal (thank God!)

Monday afternoon the emotion light comes on again and this time it sets the check engine light and the Sol A code. I reset my trip to Thursday and Tuesday replace Sol A, Filter kit and fluid. I also buy a Sol C (a $200 one) because it is implicated in the 3-4 shift.

I ended up not putting the Sol C in and returned it to the Ford dealer.

The faults clear but Wednesday evening I get the emotion light, no OD and slipping 3-4 shift. I learned that shutting the car off and restarting it clears the emotion light and the tranny is normal. I buy another Sol A, filter kit and fluid and decide that if it recurrs on the trip I would do the job in a hotel parking lot. I had to be in Cinci by Monday for work.

Well 2500 miles and all went well. I noticed that thhe emotion light seems related to letting the car slow down, downshifting and then accelerating "moderately" - This happened once on the trip in the middle of nowhere Oklahoma. I pulled over shut off and restarted and it cleared.

It still slips from 3-4 under medium acceleration, does not do it under slower/normal accel or under hard accel although it hits the shift hard.

When I get settled into housing here I will likely do the Sol A, Filter and fluid again. I think things got gunked up with 2,000 of no OD driving. If that doesn't clear the slipping shift (and bury the emotion light fault for good) I wll probably do Sol C and see if that does it. It is so easy to open the pan up I will hold rebuying the $200 Sol C in reserve.

I also have the "key won't come out of ignition" issue when it's cold so will likely open up the shft console and check out the solenoid connection and mechanical setup. If all is good I will likely get a replacement shifter. Haven't had the "key won't turn in ignition" one yet but may do that proactively.

These 4 issues (tranny, key won't come out, key won't turn and no cruise control) seem like the top 4 and are worth fixing. On the plus side the Focus did 2500 miles in 4 days, was great and comfortable to drive 8-10 hours a day and got 30mpg on every fill up - Very happy with my used Focus!
04-16-2015 05:40 AM
amc49 Look at the solenoid apply chart there, A, B, and C are all OFF in 1 and 2, they are not doing anything, not gonna do much there with new ones..............all would have to be stuck on and odds of that astronomical.

You don't mention whether 4th (OD) is working............

Could be possibly solenoid E only, and even more so if you put the car into MANUAL 1st and it's not working too. Manual 1st is 1 on the shifter not D. Sol. E must be working ON for D1 and D2 and M1 to work.

Almost has to be a solenoid, there is no single or combination of mechanical fails that can do that particular combo of lost gears other than very long shots.
04-15-2015 06:43 PM
Marde
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2005focus View Post
I Drive a 2005 ford focus zx4 ses, w/auto trans. I have lost 1st and 2nd gear, but still have 3rd gear. After driving for a few miles the O/D light will start to flash.if i replace a,b, and c solenoid will this solve my problem?
Absolutely no guaranty. Even perfect symptoms of a faulty solenoid-A (SSA) are sometimes not fixed with SSA replacement. Solenoid replacements are a common rock to throw at it because of people being worried about the potential of high cost repairs... and the fairly good success rates of replacing 1, 2 or all 6 solenoids.

You have no 1st and 2nd....hmmmm? I am not sure. Any other symptoms? Reverse ok? Check engine light (CEL)? Have you had the car OBD scanned for codes? Ever changed the fluid? Fluid level ok now? EDIT: Some shops offer a free diag, test drive, repair est, or code reading.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Marde View Post
Lots of opinions and so many different symptoms and possibilities to consider and confuse on this subject.

No 3rd and 4th = can be trans end cover (fixable at home)
Slipping 3rd and/or 4th = can be Solenoid A (fixable at home)
No 2nd and 4th = can be intermediate band (fixable at home)
This, that and another symptom = can be trans fluid is low
This, that and another symptom = can be one or more solenoid is bad
This, that and another symptom = can be some damaged wiring, or bad connection between point A (PCM) and point B (trans)
This, that and another symptom = can be trans is on its' way to Disneyland.

Based on multiple different things; I often say check your P's and Q's first, then replace all 6 solenoids and home-flush the system. If fixed, celebrate. If still broke, oh well, your a dummy for doing that, you wasted time and money. Now get up off the floor and try again. -or give up and take it to a pro.

Set of 6 solenoids, filter, gasket:
Ford 4F27E Master Solenoid Set Filter Pan Gasket Kit A B C D E FN4A El FNR5 | eBay

Fluid flush:
How-To flush ATX fluid and change filter - Ford Focus Forum, Ford Focus ST Forum, Ford Focus RS Forum

Solenoid A - How to:
Common Ford Focus Transmission Problem, How to fix - Ford Focus Forum, Ford Focus ST Forum, Ford Focus RS Forum

Video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l36SjcB0FuQ





04-15-2015 06:07 PM
2005focus I Drive a 2005 ford focus zx4 ses, w/auto trans. I have lost 1st and 2nd gear, but still have 3rd gear. After driving for a few miles the O/D light will start to flash.if i replace a,b, and c solenoid will this solve my problem?
04-05-2015 12:34 AM
amc49 Not like that there ain't.............
04-04-2015 10:43 AM
jrsaucke
Quote:
Originally Posted by amc49 View Post
Trans is on its' way to dying there. Too much and big pieces of metal. Beginning to shell out right now. Copper is a support bushing grinding up. Then shells and drums tilt to tear up quick after that.
Sounds like there is no hope for it to keep going then?
04-02-2015 11:41 PM
amc49 Trans is on its' way to dying there. Too much and big pieces of metal. Beginning to shell out right now. Copper is a support bushing grinding up. Then shells and drums tilt to tear up quick after that.
04-02-2015 09:42 PM
jrsaucke
Quote:
Originally Posted by amc49 View Post
Filings size residue is bad, should only be like dark clutch material in extremely small pieces and sediment formed of ground metal. Bigger pieces are imminent fail coming up, the end cover wears a lot to do that but any bearing in trans can do it too, there are like 15 separate needle roller bearings that if only one comes apart does major damage.

End cover issue affects reverse then direct clutch (3rd gear)................
Pictures of the pan magnet, and some larger pieces I found on the rear top edge of the filter housing. There were some copper/brass colored filings near the pan magnet as well.

4f27e - Album on Imgur
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