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Topic Review (Newest First)
Today 09:16 PM
JONNY750 Does not always shift hard out of first
Today 09:00 PM
JONNY750
trans problems

2001 zx3 shifts hard out of 1st. any ideas
had po705 code replaced range module still the same
Thanks for time
04-26-2015 12:10 AM
Ex-Calif Drove it again tonight. Definitely 2-3. Only happens under lighter acceleration. Moderate acceleration or heavy acceleration it shifts clean - Intuition would say a pressure problem. Higher rpm = higher pressure?

Sold my '67 Chevelle for $1500 in 1981. Shoulda put it in a barn...

Also put a 400 small block in a Datsun pickup but that's another story for another forum - LOL...
04-25-2015 02:01 PM
amc49 The servo controls 2 and 4 so any combination of going into 2-3 or 3-4 can show up there. Slips too early coming out of 2 and slips late going into 4.

I used to put Vega converters in Turbo 400s behind 454 BBC to get cheap man's hi-stall converter...we at one time had a 2 speed Powerglide that ran in the mid 9's at 140 mph 1/4 mi. '70 Corvette............we should be shot for butchering that car, I groan to think of what a '70 with 454 4 speed would bring now............
04-25-2015 08:49 AM
Ex-Calif
Quote:
Originally Posted by amc49 View Post
.

If the problem is 3 to OD shift then servo piston can break loose its' pin to do that or servo may simply need another longer band bolt, it has worn band enough so that it slips slightly and both issues can be erratic. Bolt on the other end of band from servo comes in slightly different lengths to do that, but common for trans shops to tell you you need a new trans in lieu of that quick fix, it makes them far more money. Both 3 and 4 use the direct clutch pack too, high mileage trans end cover wear can make for direct clutch hydraulic circuit leaks that produce that slip occasionally. Usually reverse suffers first but not always.

PCM can only point towards solenoid issues because that is the only thing that can be electrically detected, it cannot deduce exact mechanical problems. When a solenoid code pops up, it should be more widely interpreted as could be anything that solenoid plays with including hard parts, the wiring to the solenoid could easily be frayed or broken internally as well.

..
This is excellent info and you definitely sound like you know this tranny well. Thanks for sharing. I've read some of the other posts about how to get into the tranny and fix some of the realtively "common" wear out parts and failures. I am not shy about that kinda stuff once I get my garage and get it organized.

To be honest I may be having a senior moment. The shift slip may be 2-3 not 3-4. I will have to double check. I am not driving "his" car since I got my new (to me) Jeep Liberty.

That animal (a 2012) has its own list of demons that can pop up - LOL...

As for all this electronic mumbo jumbo today? It's our fault. It started sme time in the mid '70s the day I put electronic points on my '67 Chevelle 327 to get a hotter spark - LOL...

Look what we started - The good old "Powerslide" transmission didn't have any freakin' wires going to it or in it. Just a vacuum tube (and a high stall torque converter) - LOL...
04-25-2015 08:37 AM
Ex-Calif
Quote:
Originally Posted by amc49 View Post
I don't hesitate to reuse ATX oil at all IF IT'S GOOD AND CLEAN.

Driving 2K on no OD didn't hurt anything by itself, old school cars drove without any OD at all and the trans ratio was still 1 to 1 like these are in 3rd gear. The fluids lasted 60K doing that and these use synthetic which goes even longer. The old school trannies also slipped converter all the time, these lock it with a clutch and that lowers trans fluid heat tremendously. Heat is what turns the fluid from red to orange and then brown to be dark.
.

<snip>

Look up my posting on how to get key to turn on forever after it starts not turning on, after lock cylinder is in your hand 30 seconds of work and zero $$$ to fix it pretty much forever. DON'T wait until it won't come out, you may have to drill it out then, most do. better done before it becomes a problem.

I as well personally remove the solenoid under the shifter, whoops! missing parts cause no problems.......................
After son drove 2,500 miles with no OD the fluid was (in hindsight) very dark. I am sure he cooked it. When I got there and we drove on the freeway I am sure the RPM was over 3,500. That's what made me notice the problem in the first place.

Fluid is cheap comparitively. I wouldn't save $20 when changing out the solenod.

I am in with the shifter soelnoid and key problem. But these fixes are also cheap to do it back to original. New shifter is like $50 and the key barrel and coding is a no brainer.

Totally agree to do the key before it needs it.

My kid also wants to do some customizing on the car and I figure there could be some good summer projects in it for him and I to get some bonding time in before he heads off to the Navy later this year.

Only a few months left to pass on fatherly "wisdom" like how not to get ripped off by auto mechanics, plumbers etc... OK my estrogen level is getting too high I better stop here - LOL...
04-25-2015 08:29 AM
Ex-Calif
Quote:
Originally Posted by Marde View Post
Hi, welcome to FF.

If me, and doing it a second time, I would buy the whole kit $159 (LINK) and replace all 6 solenoids. No sense (to me) in buying another SSA or $200-SSC from your local Ford dealer.

Classic bad SSA symptoms are sometimes fixed after second repair effort by replacing SSB. Do not remember if someone got a second-effort fix with SSC replacement, but it too is a player during EPC control verses throttle position. Your slips/failures do seem like they are showing up at some and not all throttle demands tho....

GL.
Great tip and thanks for the link. It's got about 3,000 miles since the last fix including a California to Ohio trip. Other than a slight slip in teh shift it's holding up.

Move into house in 3 weeks. Can't wait to have a garage again...
04-18-2015 04:47 PM
amc49 I don't hesitate to reuse ATX oil at all IF IT'S GOOD AND CLEAN.

Driving 2K on no OD didn't hurt anything by itself, old school cars drove without any OD at all and the trans ratio was still 1 to 1 like these are in 3rd gear. The fluids lasted 60K doing that and these use synthetic which goes even longer. The old school trannies also slipped converter all the time, these lock it with a clutch and that lowers trans fluid heat tremendously. Heat is what turns the fluid from red to orange and then brown to be dark.

If the problem is 3 to OD shift then servo piston can break loose its' pin to do that or servo may simply need another longer band bolt, it has worn band enough so that it slips slightly and both issues can be erratic. Bolt on the other end of band from servo comes in slightly different lengths to do that, but common for trans shops to tell you you need a new trans in lieu of that quick fix, it makes them far more money. Both 3 and 4 use the direct clutch pack too, high mileage trans end cover wear can make for direct clutch hydraulic circuit leaks that produce that slip occasionally. Usually reverse suffers first but not always.

PCM can only point towards solenoid issues because that is the only thing that can be electrically detected, it cannot deduce exact mechanical problems. When a solenoid code pops up, it should be more widely interpreted as could be anything that solenoid plays with including hard parts, the wiring to the solenoid could easily be frayed or broken internally as well.

Look up my posting on how to get key to turn on forever after it starts not turning on, after lock cylinder is in your hand 30 seconds of work and zero $$$ to fix it pretty much forever. DON'T wait until it won't come out, you may have to drill it out then, most do. better done before it becomes a problem.

I as well personally remove the solenoid under the shifter, whoops! missing parts cause no problems.......................
04-18-2015 02:05 PM
Marde
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ex-Calif View Post

When I get settled into housing here I will likely do the Sol A, Filter and fluid again. I think things got gunked up with 2,000 of no OD driving. If that doesn't clear the slipping shift (and bury the emotion light fault for good) I wll probably do Sol C and see if that does it. It is so easy to open the pan up I will hold rebuying the $200 Sol C in reserve.
Hi, welcome to FF.

If me, and doing it a second time, I would buy the whole kit $159 (LINK) and replace all 6 solenoids. No sense (to me) in buying another SSA or $200-SSC from your local Ford dealer.

Classic bad SSA symptoms are sometimes fixed after second repair effort by replacing SSB. Do not remember if someone got a second-effort fix with SSC replacement, but it too is a player during EPC control verses throttle position. Your slips/failures do seem like they are showing up at some and not all throttle demands tho....

GL.
04-18-2015 10:09 AM
Ex-Calif Bought a 2000 Focus SE Wagon VTEC with 120k on the clock in January. I joined today to give a shout out to everyone who has posted their experience, especially OP for the original codes and troubleshooting advice.

I left the car with my son until March. Due to a work transfer I needed to drive it from Ca to Ohio by March 22. I arrived Friday the 13th planning to leave Sunday for a leisurely cross country...

On saturday afternoon my son drove us cross town for some shopping and I noted the enigne RPM very high and the emotion light set. I found this forum in January when fixing the "cruise control inop due to third light wiring issue" (nailed it) and got the hit for the transmission. I asked my son if the light had come on before and he said, "Yeah on and off all the time." Basically he had driven it mostly on the freeway with no OD! Also when the emotion light is set the cars slips the 3-4 shift.

So I delay the trip start to Tuesday ad get a Sol A and FIlter kit. I replace it on Sunday and the fault clears. An early poster reused his fluid and I did the same - bad idea... In hindsight my son put on about 2,000 miles with no OD and had cooked the fluid. It was not really a good pink color but kinda dark. A reaxamination of the first filter showed it pretty dirty but no metal (thank God!)

Monday afternoon the emotion light comes on again and this time it sets the check engine light and the Sol A code. I reset my trip to Thursday and Tuesday replace Sol A, Filter kit and fluid. I also buy a Sol C (a $200 one) because it is implicated in the 3-4 shift.

I ended up not putting the Sol C in and returned it to the Ford dealer.

The faults clear but Wednesday evening I get the emotion light, no OD and slipping 3-4 shift. I learned that shutting the car off and restarting it clears the emotion light and the tranny is normal. I buy another Sol A, filter kit and fluid and decide that if it recurrs on the trip I would do the job in a hotel parking lot. I had to be in Cinci by Monday for work.

Well 2500 miles and all went well. I noticed that thhe emotion light seems related to letting the car slow down, downshifting and then accelerating "moderately" - This happened once on the trip in the middle of nowhere Oklahoma. I pulled over shut off and restarted and it cleared.

It still slips from 3-4 under medium acceleration, does not do it under slower/normal accel or under hard accel although it hits the shift hard.

When I get settled into housing here I will likely do the Sol A, Filter and fluid again. I think things got gunked up with 2,000 of no OD driving. If that doesn't clear the slipping shift (and bury the emotion light fault for good) I wll probably do Sol C and see if that does it. It is so easy to open the pan up I will hold rebuying the $200 Sol C in reserve.

I also have the "key won't come out of ignition" issue when it's cold so will likely open up the shft console and check out the solenoid connection and mechanical setup. If all is good I will likely get a replacement shifter. Haven't had the "key won't turn in ignition" one yet but may do that proactively.

These 4 issues (tranny, key won't come out, key won't turn and no cruise control) seem like the top 4 and are worth fixing. On the plus side the Focus did 2500 miles in 4 days, was great and comfortable to drive 8-10 hours a day and got 30mpg on every fill up - Very happy with my used Focus!
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