|12-22-2015 03:33 AM|
For sure scout out the location of the module top in tank, there have been those who cut holes that did not match pump location at all and then it turns into a real hack job. The location moves depending on year models.
You WON'T have it done in two hours no matter what you do, at least not with any semblance of decent work that lasts.
Uh, it's dumb to put a USED fuel pump in, I gotta say it. Even more so if they use ethanol laced fuel in your area. Of course the top hole makes that mistake much easier the second time around.
|12-22-2015 01:00 AM|
|sailor||Not sure an SVT pump would match for a duratec. Good for zetec but not sure connectors etc. would match for the different/later version.|
|12-21-2015 04:31 PM|
|mooneytunes8||Hi all, about to do my fuel pump here in a couple weeks, and was wondering if i could get some opinions. I just pulled the pump out of an SVT today for my 05 D20. thoughts on hand cutting an access hole up top under where the seats go and getting a cut template from a junked car at the scrapper? I know cutting a hole up top isn't the wisest thing as there is the risk of cutting wires/lines..but i figured hand cutting it would be a ways less of a risk than using a power saw. I just figure to make it a couple hour project instead a full day project for someone who hasn't had the most experience? thanks!|
|10-06-2015 06:17 AM|
|amc49||Hey I'll be the first one to admit that I can be an ass at times..............|
|10-06-2015 06:10 AM|
|patdio58||amc49- I would like to apologize to you for getting a bit nasty through this wonderful trip of installation of equipment that manufacturers make, yet do not seem to actually realize there are many different styles, sizes, connections that do not always meld with the parts they send you. So I think the frustration of not being able to change what should have been relatively obvious, turned into a world of variables !! I wound up going on the defensive, when questioned about certain aspects. I took it as an insult as opposed to possible solutions ! Again, to all those and especially amc49 my sincerest thanks and appreciation for attempting to solve something without actually having the specific installation parts in front of them. One more for the notes page at the back of my repair manual. Can't wait to see what is next !!!!|
|10-05-2015 07:42 PM|
|patdio58||amc49- I have a sheet metal brake and have made a custom panel to fit. A raised section with a wide enough flange all cut and formed to each appropriate level of the matching surface.as to seal the elements and carbon monoxide fumes. I have used a thin rubber membrane under the flange, then used Phenoseal to make a complete air tight seal. To secure it, I used 1/8" short pop rivets. Even took the hose to it from underneath as a test.|
|10-04-2015 09:32 PM|
The shape there is not flat at all, corrugated on two sides and raised or rising edges on the others. Some of the profile depends on how you cut the hole but no way will a flat plate cover that to be weatherproof.
The best cover is one made from the piece cut out with flanges made on all four sides to overlap edges. On mine one flange angles up at 45 degrees and another is curved to fit the roll of the corrugated tightly. Another has one corner bent up and notched to suit. That way the edges can be siliconed to be pretty much leakproof and they are well backed to not move around to shear the weatherproofing.
Don't have a lot of room under the plate as well in spots, I had to cut sheetmetal screws down to only 1/4" long and purposely placed over the corrugated highs to avoid screwing off into the fuel tank plastic, tank rubs the plate in places hard since it pulls up tight to floorboard when the attachment is tight. Only 1/8" space in some places there.
Somebody made a nifty clean looking one by cutting his hole then went to JY and cut another Focus out about one inch bigger than the cut to overlap, cleaned up it looked like it could be a factory cover.
|10-04-2015 07:39 PM|
|10-04-2015 06:49 AM|
|patdio58||To all that attempted to assist me in my installation of a OEM fuel pump for a 2002 SE SOHC. I am approximately two weeks into the final connection of my replacement pump "specifically" designed for the older version of fuel pump replacement. The retainer ring that is secured to bottom of gas tank, which secures old pump assembly to tank, has to be removed for new pump to properly sit on bottom of tank. As it is spring loaded to lay flat and secure to bottom of tank. Removal of retainer ring on gas tank (as per manufacturer) requires a Ford tool designed specifically to cut the black tabs that secure the retainer ring to gas tank. The tool is approximately $275 !!! I followed some instructions found previously on this site and was able to remove the black tabs with a sharp utility knife in 10 minutes, and remove the retainer ring for old pump assembly. Then the replacement pump sat flush against bottom of gas tank. It is spring loaded, so when installing you have to push down significantly to get the top of pump lined up and into two different sized notches in threaded ring on top of gas tank. Also, the spring loaded pump assembly is what keeps the pump from moving inside the gas tank, as it securely sits flush against bottom of tank. The original line that had a male end that fit into female connection on top of pump and a female end that fit on male end of fuel filter. The female end was incorrect. I contacted the manufacturer of pump and was able to get the correct line. I did a pressure test as per manufacturer requirements after completed installation of 14 inches water column for a minimum of two minutes with key in on position. It held the pressure, and did not drop at all. Then road tested it, it now being two weeks since replacement of pump and have not had any signs of leakage at all. Some information that was relayed on this site was of much help. Some was incorrect. The manufacturer and other research on line, including the Ford sites and their Tech Support, all combined sorted out the confusion due to all the variables involved in this particular replacement job.|
|09-25-2015 11:29 PM|
FYI to all who read this later..........
It's not known by many but the available late fuel pump BY ITSELF with NO module will not work in early Focus modules. Somebody here made the mistake of assuming it just drops in.
I had to mod the top cup manifold inside module to rotate it about 10 degrees, create a new method of holding the pump straight and solid, create a non-existent shock absorber for bottom of pump, new top pump rubber since nothing worked, cut top of pump outlet off an exact amount since simply shoving it in blocks the outlet 100%, new strainer where none existed to fit that app, hose clamps in two places where none were before to retain a spacer sleeve to make the OD back right. I probably missed something else as well. The new later pump is smaller and longer and it flat misfits the early module EVERYWHERE you can think of.
Use that late pump in early module and you'll be done in a week or a month when the pump slowly moves out of place to then fall into bottom of module and you will not be getting any fuel at all then. Ask the other guys who have already BTDT, ask them. They found out. I at least looked close to find the issues without having to yank pump again and again. I saved about $70 but way too much work done to make it work, I botched that deal. Still, it runs perfectly.
Go ahead and use the late pump in early module, I dare you.................
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