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Topic Review (Newest First)
03-15-2015 02:42 AM
amc49 Uh, a mess up there.

Number one, the trans are the same but the solenoids are not, they are lettered different. You didn't need B at all, 4th gear does not use it. On FORD 4th gear uses A and C, on MAZDA 4th gear uses A and D. Same parts and locations in VB but the letters are different. Needed to change both the solenoids with white wire. Sorry I didn't look sooner, just looked up your wire color code only................
03-14-2015 04:51 PM
mazdazoom amc49
Did the a & b solenoids today. No 4th gear. I will be looking for a new used car.Don't want to sink $ 3200 for a rebuilt tranny installed. The magnet was full of a grayish creamy material but not metal chips. I assume its the clutch bands. The 4th gear must of snapped.
The job was fairly easy. The a & b solenoids are much smaller than the other 4. The fluid was dark but no water or metal chips. I used a wire brush to remove the rtv silicone gasket from the pan. On the tranny i used a scraper blade and then wiped it with mineral spirits. The PO753 code is still active and it went into limp mode as soon as it tried to shift to 4th gear. Now I know its mechanical and not electrical. The whole job cost me $120.00 but it was worth a shot.The moral to the story is, change your fluids!!!
03-13-2015 02:09 PM
amc49 FYI, A4LD is simply an older C3 trans with an OD added on, many parts toward back half of trans may still be the same. Could help with parts looking. And, if the A4 has the same type pump setup as the C3 then for sure you MUST realign pump body to the other half using a centering tool if pump is split in half. No registers there if like that and pump out of center will tear up in about five minutes.
03-12-2015 07:18 PM
sailor Ford has full synthetic Mercon V avail. as well, that kinda answers the question.
03-12-2015 04:02 PM
Tiger-Heli Wouldn't think it would hurt - OTOH, I've run 150K on Mercon V and only changed the speed sensor, so ...
03-12-2015 03:29 PM
arcticcatzr800 Update from 10-18-14
Well, my focus mileage is at 169,439 and the transmission is still good to go (knock on wood). Thats about 2500 miles give or take on the new shift "A" solenoid. I believe it has indeed fixed it...hopefully for a good long while. What is yall's opinion on running a full synthetic trans fluid such as Royal Purple? When I changed the solenoid I swapped 1 quart of Royal Purple in, don't notice much difference but it make me feel better anyways. The next project is a A4LD out of my ranger that is missing overdrive and had metal chunks in the valve body....should get pulled for a rebuild next weekend.
03-12-2015 07:30 AM
mazdazoom amc49, I want to thank you for the quick response. I saw the video on you tube and they said that the A & B are smaller than the others. A & B are the same part numbers. I will go by the size and also the colors of the wires as you have explained.

I know after a repair I have always posted the results back in hopes of helping others in the community.

Thank You.
03-12-2015 01:51 AM
amc49 On Mazda, A is white and B is blue, A and B are the outboard solenoids on that side, C is the center one. C is green and FYI D is white as well so don't freak out. E is black.
03-11-2015 09:37 PM
Trouble code PO753

Hope you guys don't mind but I had to join this forum because no-one knows anything about mazdas 6 in the mazda forum. Anyway I have spent hours looking at the posts in this forum and I can't believe
the member participation. I hope that members will accept me and offer some help.

I own a 2003 Mazda 6i 2.3 4 speed automatic transmission, 156,00 miles.
The tranny fluid has never been changed by me because it looked clean. No excuses.Recently I got a code PO753 which is a code for electrical problems with shift solenoid A. The Mazda tranny and the Ford focus tranny , i have been told is the same. The car has check engine lite and AT on the dash. It shifts fine from 1st to 2nd and 3rd. But won't go into 4th. I ordered the shift solenoid a & b filter and tranny fluid which is mercon V. I plan to change them this weekend and had a question.I have assumed that they can be changed without dropping the valve body. Is this correct. Can someone also confirm that the wire for solenoid a is white but what is the color of the wire for solenoid b. The puzzling part in this mess is that when the car is shutt off and then restarted the AT light is gone until it shifts from 1,2,3 and then resets when attempting to go into 4th gear. It does not slip in the first 3 gears and has never slipped.
02-19-2015 03:46 PM
my poor car Update from last year (02-28-2014):

well I took the car to a bunch of mechanics, who noticed that the alternator was getting hot and the battery voltage would be low (12.3V or less) when the symptoms occur. So they changed the alternator TWICE, and the battery, all within 6 months. Each time the car was only good for a week or so thereafter.

Of course, the battery and alternator are not root cause. All signs seem to point to a GROUND FAULT somewhere in the vehicle, meaning that somewhere there is a bad connection to ground. I crawled under the car myself and the only thing that possibly seemed suspect is a wire that goes to the bottom of the tranny, which seemed a little bit bent.

Anyway, the last time the symptoms reappeared (headlights weak and flickering, tranny bucking and slipping), I shut the car off and disconnected the battery for 10 minutes (to clear out the volatile memory and clear all the codes). I then reconnected the battery cables, turned the car on, and drove home with no problem.

Any ideas???
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