|05-14-2015 04:56 PM|
"My horn blows" actually means the horn doesn't blow. Like your vacuum sucking...
English is fun.
You said you tried to switch the relay...so you did switch it or didn't? Make sure it's a known good relay. If it was, then your issue is likely the switch in the steering wheel.
Disconnect the battery and wait AT LEAST 30 minutes before opening up the wheel or you risk getting the airbag in the face. Sure, it's funny on YouTube, but not when it happens to you.
|05-14-2015 03:54 PM|
|ferjaram||I mean it works when I run it to the battery, but when everything is hook up it wont blow.|
|05-14-2015 01:00 PM|
Leave it alone, you said it works.
Relays don't need to make an audible click to function, noise level varies tremendously. Why worry if it's functional?
|05-14-2015 12:33 PM|
|ferjaram||I have a problem too. My horn works it blows. But the relay doesn't click. I tried to switch out the relay and still no click. Any advice|
|05-02-2015 05:29 AM|
'Basically the horn bracket is wrong and the horn gets water in it and stops functioning.'
I've seen that before on other cars, do those guys ever even think about that issue???
I've actually done what it takes to re-orient the scroll openings to make them shed water instead of ingest it. Never had one of those then later go bad unless the case itself leaked where riveted together. Drill rivets out and use small screws and nuts and glue it back up with silicone after dressing the points and resetting the diaphragm screw to make noise and blow the sh-t out of it.
|04-29-2015 09:50 PM|
3 items not working which use that part pointed to it pretty well.
Glad you confirmed it, when I saw this earlier tonight there wasn't an easier way to prove the issue I could think of than pulling it for checking.
|04-29-2015 09:05 PM|
pulled the clockspring, it is bad. only a few of the contacts (out of 9) have continuity. I pulled it apart and the ribbon cable didn't look that bad, but I could see a little damage to a couple of the wires near one of the connectors (which are molded on and can't really be fixed without damage, btw). cruise control switches and horn switch seem to work just fine mechanically and electrically.
New clockspring on the way - hopefully this will knock out 3 issues at once (horn, airbag operation/dash light, and cruise control, which hasn't been working in a loooong time)
I'm pretty confident that this will clear everything up - should've done this long ago. funny that the final straw was when the horn quit working
thanks for all your help!
|04-29-2015 12:13 PM|
I doubt it's a voltage drop thing because the horn also doesn't work when the car is running, with the alternator providing ~14V... also since I don't hear the relay pulling in when I push the button.
I suppose I should also mention that the cruise control doesn't work either... could I potentially fix all these things by replacing the clock spring? Saw a tutorial that made it look pretty easy to do. If I take out the clock spring will it be obvious if it is broken?
I can check the switch contacts pretty easily when I have it apart, but I'd really like to confirm that it is in fact the clockspring before purchasing a replacement.
|04-28-2015 07:46 PM|
There is a Ford TSB on this - 030301 - it is one of those "hidden recalls"
Basically the horn bracket is wrong and the horn gets water in it and stops functioning. You can take the car in to the dealer and they will fix it for free with a new bracket. Although, in your case, since the airbag light is on, they might not. Your horn might be "healed" enough by you banging on it to work with full battery voltage but not with the slight voltage drop of the wiring and relay.
|04-28-2015 07:26 PM|
If you got it checked for the airbag code, and the circuit to the airbag was the fault, that would be two circuits through the clock spring that might have failed - kinda points that way then.
Pull battery negative terminal & wait a while before touching any airbag circuits (general rule).
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