|09-02-2014 09:26 PM|
Here is a video of the clicking:
And the relay clicking when I turn off the car:
|08-27-2014 01:01 PM|
|Jutro||Same exact thing has been happening to my 2005 ford focus zx4. Wasn't the battery, nothing in the fuse box, so now I'm replacing the alternator. By the way who else agrees that the location of the alternator is a pain in the butt?!|
|01-03-2013 07:32 PM|
I'm personally interested in what you mean by "fuel injection switch"- is that a relay? There are no switches in the EFI circuit. I'd be taking it back to that mechanic and asking him why this problem wasn't there before he worked on the car.
Here is a link to the main page of General Technical Chat so you can start your own thread.
|01-03-2013 06:59 PM|
If one of the diodes went out in the alternator, then very possibly AC is being applied to the battery and alot of strange symptoms would appear
Get a multimeter, set to AC Volts, see any? then you have a problem
|01-03-2013 06:48 PM|
|kubiak213||any luck getting it fixed since then?|
|01-17-2012 02:23 PM|
|2005fordfocuszx4||Speedometer and mileage not working - check engine light battery light seatbelt light oil light and coolant light stay on on my dashboard. I recently got my fuel injection switch replaced in my 2005 ford focus zx4. The next day when I turned my car on my speedometer and mileage was not working and all lights on the dashboard stay lit. What can be the problem?|
|08-08-2010 12:35 AM|
Wow they would not have gotten one dime if I left with same issues unsolved.They would have removed what they installed , that just sounds more like part swapping then diagnosing.Hear a lot of this now days.Sorry but part swapping gets very costly, just sounded like you are paying to train mechanics.I just would not have paid nothing for parts unless vehicle was repaired.Now I would not pay the bill either if a shop that replaced my ignition module ,plugs , wires, cap, rotor and coil to solve a misfire.This just tells me they just part swapped until they found the problem.Problem is, more and more shops do this instead of finding the problems through proper diagnosing.Demand either they find/fix the problem or remove and refund for all the non corrective parts they installed along with the part swapping training you provided to their mechanics at your labor rate.
I would be looking at Voltage Supply/Defective cable/wire or poor cable/wire connections.Mainly the ones supplying the fuse panels.Would also be looking at grounds and their connections.Would include ECU along with wiring and connection connectors.Best to stay with one place that is trustworthy for repairs and not just replacing parts and charging without resolving the problem , as taking your vehicle to multi shops/people you keep repaying to have the same things checked/retested.Don't pay for parts if you leave with original problem.Ask questions why and what each part your charged for is and why it was replaced.Usually electrical switches and sensors don't all go bad at once or very very rare.If they tell you they are stumped but here is a bill for 5 parts plus install and Diagnosing labor charges, only pay for diagnosing labor time, remember your car hasn't been fixed so why did they put new parts on it but its still broke and doing same thing, They can swap the parts back out or eat the part costs!
|08-07-2010 10:42 AM|
Batteries & alternators
Your description of where power comes from and when is perfect, but there are some special case reasons why "logical" test corollaries aren't a good idea, and the "dead" battery instance also depends on the details...
As to "dead" batteries, correct as to charging a totally "dead" battery - when there's no power at all from the battery the alternator won't produce any output so no charging. Engine prob. won't run either for lack of electricity, but in a few cases it may run, using all the power avail. so there's still no charging output - bunch of odd special case possibilities here, general rule to make testing valid is to use a known good battery when checking the charging system on any vehicle to get valid results & avoid the odd cases that may give confusing results. So, severely discharged batt. needs some outside source charging before the car's system can do the rest of the job. Low batteries (often called "dead") that need a jump to start the car will recover from normal alternator charging, but a short drive isn't adequate...
Pulling the batt. terminal to check for adequate charging dates back to the days of generators & cars with no electronics - a more "robust" system with regard to voltage spikes...
While doing this doesn't always cause damage, the potential is there & risking severe damage to alternators & electrical components from voltage spike when disconnecting the battery just isn't worth it.
My best "proof" can be found if you look up battery switches, either racing safety disconnects, or marine versions for multiple batteries. Cheaper versions have no alternator protection circuit, and carry warnings about possible damage if battery is disconnected while engine is running.
|08-07-2010 08:15 AM|
|08-07-2010 12:54 AM|
|Grumpy||As the car has been doing this for a period of time but starts OK which suggests the battery has been getting charged sufficiently, so I doubt that it's the alternator. In the main fuse/relay junction box there is a relay called the power hold relay that puts battery power through a hot at all times 20 amp. fuse to the PCM when the Ign. switch is at On or Start. After checking the battery connections as suggested, I'd swap out this relay. It should be common knowledge by now, but I"ll repeat it.......NEVER, EVER disconnect the battery when the Ign. switch is selected ON, including any attempt to see if the alternator is producing current. It's a good way to zap the PCM and/or the alternator. The FSM for any modern car will have this warning.|
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