|12-17-2014 12:36 AM|
Just now reading this write up for the first time.
Excellent work Focusrun! Thank you for all of the awesome info (and pictures) you included.
It goes to show that even the new guy around these parts can get some mechanical work done with a little try hard and effort.
|12-16-2014 10:46 PM|
Good to hear that splicing wasn't such a bad idea after all.
Having just learnt that proper maintenance means the first car that someone owns should also be the last, I may very well complete the job with a whole new transmission cooling line.
Thanks again for the input!
|12-16-2014 10:11 PM|
|amc49||X2 to that............|
|12-16-2014 09:10 AM|
Cut off the existing rubber hose where it is attached to the transmission return line and then cut off the clamp. Now you will be able to replace the entire rubber hose between the cooler and transmission. I use Gates 3/8" Transmission Oil Cooler Hose (Part # 27061) from O'Reilly Auto. NAPA and other stores carry a similar transmission cooler hose. Use a worm drive clamp on each end and you are back in business. Correctly sized spring clamps would also work.
|12-16-2014 06:58 AM|
'...a brass barb splice and four hose clamps...'
Will run forever installed competently, got two cars with years on them and the same. They don't leak at all. Not as clean looking as spiffy OEM fittings but all that counts is dead 100% reliability to me. ATX runs maybe 30 psi, I got retrofit a/c highside on one car with barb and double worm clamps running at 300 psi on rubber hose filled with R134A.
|12-15-2014 11:55 PM|
Sounds like an elegant & adequate solution for the frozen fittings problem to me.
(you really don't need to replace all the hard to obtain pieces just to keep it factory original)
|12-15-2014 11:16 PM|
Thank you Marde, Focusknot and ElSolo.
I gave another shot at unscrewing the line from the transmission, while I had no problem loosening the initial thread using a 17mm flare wrench, the fitting wouldn't turn further as the bind between the hose and the fitting would cause the solid aluminium line to turn as well which results force down the hose.
At just a few degrees below freezing with high humidity means murder for working with your hands, so I gave in to the most inelegant solution of splicing the hose with a brass barb splice and four hose clamps(which I will replace shortly with the spring style clamps). The parts tech at Crappy Tire said that splicing would be fine given the pressure is relatively low. Considering I chewed off his ear about my failed attempts at getting the hose off, his response was possibly an attempt to get rid of me. For $6, I would be freeing myself from excessively colourful language.
Many transmission cooler kits include such hardware. I acknowledge that adding connections add a risk of leakage, however one easier to deal with than any additional stress on the transmission cooler return outlet. Nevertheless, my admission into the Focus Hall of Shame may be in order.
I just came back from a 15km ride to see how the vehicle ran. The engine reached normal operating temperatures. The shifting seemed smoother, but it could be me just trying to feel that there is an improvement. The fluid level will be checked periodically.
@FocusKnot - What model of remote spin on filter did you use? Where and how did you mount it?
|12-15-2014 08:14 PM|
|elsolo||Just unscrew the line from the end cover of the trans|
|12-15-2014 07:25 PM|
Messing with all these hoses and having to drop the pan is why I installed a remote spin-on filter.
|12-15-2014 04:00 PM|
I had the same problem. I cut a slit in the hose (with a razor blade) at the point it is touching the cooler nipple, about a 3/4-inch slit. This allowed the hose to slide off, but still required a lot of CAREFUL force to ensure the cooler nipple did not break. I think I carefully used vise-grip pliers to assist in supporting the nipple from being bent.
Once the hose was disconnected, I made a flush diagonal cut, and cut-off the damage I made with the slit. Yes, this makes the hose about 3/4 of an inch shorter, so make sure you have enough slack in your hose before making it shorter. Yeah, I think a heat-gun/hair-drier might help a little, but not much.
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