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Topic Review (Newest First)
10-11-2015 02:59 PM
jagtwlve Sailor, thanks for the info.

And following up with that link within this Forum under "focus trailing arm bushings - press in on car method." That poster was pretty handy making that small press himself. I'm not so talented, so I'll likely remove that arm to press that bushing with a conventional hydraulic press. I'll note the importance of marking on the arm the orientation of the old bushing related to the position of the double bolted blade.

Sailor, I really appreciate your help. Thanks again for this link :
10-11-2015 12:31 PM
sailor There was one quite a while ago now who posted his home made press (with pics) for installing that bushing without removing the arm except for at that end.

So it's possible, even without removal to use a press in the normal manner.
10-11-2015 12:12 PM
jagtwlve "What to do with these."
"Looking to replace rear shock mounts. I don't know what the washer looking parts are for and where do they go?"

Thanks to WD 40, I decided to improve upon Ford's better idea concerning my Focus's rear shock, top mounts. I happened to have some new rubber shock bushings and metal retainers in my parts collection. The diameter of the raised center side of bushing fit the car body's upper shock mount hole. I had to open up the lower retainer holes with a drill so they would fit beyond the threaded shock rod but stop at the shoulder where the rod increases to its full diameter. Next, I had to reduce the thickness of my rubber bushings by 3/16", cutting them with a razor knife while being held in a vise. This was done because the combined thickness of upper and lower bushings and retainers, wouldn't allow the retainer nut to catch a thread.
End result? Quieter rear suspension, but this all started after hitting a large pothole that bent two alloy rims, ruined two tires (side wall bubbles),damaged rear shock and mount. As a result I spent much time under rear of car attempting to fix "clunking". From the looks of things, I'm going to have to replace many, if not all of bushings in rear suspension. Most noticeable was the rear suspension trailing arm blade bushing, where the double bolted through pin is no longer central to bushing, but is off to one side.
These bushings are available individually, but Ford only sells complete rear suspension knuckle trailing arm with blade bushing installed. Apparently those bushings aren't easily pressed out and in.
Anyone had any luck doing an r & r on those particular bushings?
10-08-2015 09:51 AM
felixthecat Last time I replaced the rear shocks, I removed the ford oem top shock mount & just used the rubber bushings & washers. IDK why ford did that for.
10-08-2015 07:47 AM
What to do with these

"What to do with these."
"Looking to replace rear shock mounts. I don't know what the washer looking parts are for and where do they go?"

I have the same question after installing a rear shock on my 2006 ZX4. I installed new mounting kit which already had a white shim atop lower shock mount. I installed it that way, but had problems with the shock rod with upper mount lifting from where its supposed to rest on car body. I researched on internet and couldn't find any diagrams showing the assembly order in relation to vehicle placement. I now believe that the white washer is intended to be placed atop lower mount AFTER it is attached below car body. I'm going to try placing the white washer over end of shock rod where it comes through shock mounting hole in trunk and fit it over protruding lower mount 4 tabs. I'll chime in with the out come.
04-30-2013 09:47 PM
What are all these

Looking to replace rear shock mounts. I don't know what the washer looking parts are for and where do they go?

11-17-2012 12:15 AM
Sniper Focus I have nylon washers in the mounts and it makes the "cracking plastic" sounds, all this time I thought it was the plastic tote I keep in the trunk to partition/isolate stuff.

I might play around with removing the washers and torquing the nut to 13ft lbs with a crowfoot socket at a 90* angle. The latex washers look like a great idea, but I don't know if I could find something like that.
11-16-2012 10:27 AM
Geezer The upper mounts between the wagon and the sedan/hatchback are very different as are the torque settings for each. After replacing my shocks on my ZX3 I developed a clunking problem as well. After pulling out my hair for several days (and I don't have that much to pull), I discovered that the interior panel (that has to be removed to get to the top mount) was the culprit. One of the clips on the back of the panel was not fastening correctly and was allowing the panel to bang around.
11-16-2012 01:12 AM
Originally Posted by S0C0nFused View Post
Here is a pic of the top of the rear shocks. You can just see the stop.
Also, a pic of the 'doughnuts' I made from a heavy rubber foam. These add considerable resistance to the stock rubber mount (also pictured, doughnuts fit inside). Hope to get them in this weekend. Note: These are not solid like the ones from P-51.
I made a pair of donuts out of 1/4" thick latex sheet stock, they remove all free-play but have a little bit of give under stress.

No clunks ever, it's been 15,000 miles since I put them in.
11-16-2012 12:44 AM
ldwinslow On my 06 wagon I recently replaced the rear shocks and after three days I starting getting a clunking noise on even slight bumps. After talking with a tech rep. from Gabriel I had not torqued the shock bolts properly. I retorqued the bolts per the tech's spec of 85 ft/lbs on the upper and 76 on the lower and the clunking noise went away when driving over bumps. Apparently the shock mounting brackets are meant to tighten onto the shock sleeves. This eliminates the clunking between the mounting bolts and the sleeves when the sleeves are not held firmly by the mounting brackets. When removing the mounting bolts I thought they felt awful tight.
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