|06-30-2013 03:41 AM|
Aside from just replacing the LEDs, you could use a small el-glow sheet to make it light up a different color.
|06-29-2013 08:49 PM|
|starfuryt550||Yeah, solder new ones in lol. Maybe try using a blue film but I doubt it look good w a green led behind it|
|06-29-2013 08:29 PM|
Doesnt work on 2007 Fords
I just tried to do this mod, and found that with my 2007 Automatic that they stopped putting green film behind the glass and started using Green LED's behind the glass instead. There are 6 of those little buggers and they are soldered deep down in the white box. Has anyone else run into this issue? Is there a quick work around?
|06-03-2013 04:39 PM|
|03-18-2013 07:34 PM|
|stealthzx3||Agreed, the black clip is a pita. With a small flathead and a little force, i got it off without a problem.|
|03-18-2013 06:37 PM|
|SvviftSVT||Yeah that part is the worst. And you are welcome. It's what this site is all about, helping each other out.|
|03-18-2013 06:21 PM|
Love this thread.
I registered to thank people like SvviftSVT and Aaron for their detailed pics.
I found this thread because I had the infamous "dark spots" on my LCD from where the white backing was coming in contact with the LCD screen. I had everything off and set but could NOT get the stupid black clip to come off. With the help of the photos, I was able to figure it out and fix the spots.
To those having trouble with the black clip on the LCD, my biggest hangup was the bottom part of the clip. You'll know top from bottom because the bottom is the part that doesn't snap up easily. Ha.
To illustrate the problem, I'll highlight Aaron's pic:
These teeth on the bottom are going to be the biggest reason why the clip doesn't come off easily. On top, you can easily lift the tab over the top teeth because the clip bends or gives. On the bottom, however, there just isn't any real give.
What I did was I jammed a letteropener blade under the bottom of the black clip to lift it over the first tooth. You'll need something strong and narrow to do this because unlike the top, the slots on the bottom won't allow you to wedge anything unless it's directly over the tooth. I'd recommend coming in with the blade/screwdriver/etc. from the bottom of the assembly, that is to say trying to push the clip off the white assembly with your hand near where the white plastic touches the circuitboard. I simply had NO luck trying to lift the clip from the opposite direction, or with the blade pointed towards where the white plastic meets the circuitboard.
Others have suggested lifting the top clip off first, which makes the most sense because it's the easiest. Once I had the top off, the blade took off the left tooth with some ease but I had to really, really work at the bottom right tooth to get the clip up and over it.
Just BE CAREFUL.
Sorry if it's a bit too in-depth but it seems like it's the one step that I, and other people here, were having the most trouble with. Hope it helps someone else in a jam.
|01-29-2013 12:56 PM|
Ya, that's what I did. I used my finger. Here are some close ups of the film sanded and the screen of my spare spedometer I got from the junk yard.
Green LCD screen without the paper.
The sticky side you DO NOT SAND.
The side you can clearly see my 1000 grit sand marks.
|01-28-2013 01:40 PM|
I would suggest not using a razor to remove the white card, you can use a fingernail (or something similar) to loosen it and extract it with tweezers.
I used the razor the first time and I messed up the card and the film on the screen. Luckily I have the skills to replace the screen. The card only has a light layer of glue around the perimeter that's very easy to break loose.
|01-28-2013 08:11 AM|
i am not sure if you can get a diff led and "cram" it in there.
i know the #74 led bulbs are really really cheap.
but the razor blade and 1000 grit will do the trick for cleaning up the screen/film
i got my led for less than a buck from superbrightleds.com
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