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Thread: Post Up! Did you need camber plates / rear camber bolts? Reply to Thread
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Topic Review (Newest First)
06-10-2007 03:08 PM
Geezer We were having some rear inside edge tire wear. This stated with the camber at -1.9 degress and with rear toe in the .16 inch in arena. We reduced it to
-1.6 degress and .12 inch in toe setting and still had some wear but not as much or as fast. We are now at -1.3 degrees camber and .10 inch in on the toe. This appears to be working well as there are no visible signs of wear yet.....knocking on wood. Stock spec ranges are -2.3 to +0.3 degrees for rear chamber and 0.08 to .18 inches in for rear toe. Keeping that rear toe down is just as important as the rear camber spec for maximum tire life. And please note, lower camber and toe settings will have minimal impact on handling for street driving. Maximum handling performance can be increased by going with more camber and and toe out but with cost to tread wear. Excessive amounts of either is not needed for street driving.

To reduce the camber to the specs I indicated, we needed and installed rear camber bolts.
06-10-2007 10:34 AM
DFv2
Post Up! Did you need camber plates / rear camber bolts?

I'm just curious as to what type of alignment issues everyone has had after they installed lowering springs. Im pretty sure the front camber is not adjustable without camber plates up front, or can they use bolts?

Post up! For example:

Springs: Tein S-tech

Alignment: degrees +/- (if known), hardware used to get it right (plates, bolts, etc).

I already had inside treadwear before I dropped my svt with s-techs, now, after taking off the lower control arms in the rear and other various adventures (new struts, links, etc), my alignment is WAY off. Its easily visible. Im wondering if Im going to need special hardware to get this thing right.


**ALSO, what degree of negative camber (with negligible toe) can you run without really seeing excessive tire wear?**

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