|04-01-2013 02:00 AM|
|amc49||EITHER one can cause trouble. If you can read tires the wear pattern differences are evident.|
|03-28-2013 10:18 PM|
|Nickgt40||Don't get it mixed. The real fix is to get rid of the tow first, the camber will not cause this issue on its own.|
|03-28-2013 09:59 PM|
I thought they resolved it after Tempos, then later after Contours, but alas, no..............
We had hell stopping axle breakage on the rear of the Corvette, big buck Pepe Estrada custom built bulletproof rear center section+ 454 engine+ big drag slicks. Because of the independent suspension, extremely hard to get tire to plant dead flat through the range of suspension travel. We shelled out plenty of gears running that sucker. The rear axles were like 6 inches in diameter and we still broke 'em left and right. Later on in a different incarnation, it got a RWD Dana 60 rear axle and all the trouble pretty much went away. Car ran high 8's 1/4 mi. with a two speed Powerglide.
Nice drag car but when I stop to think of what we butchered up for a drag car, a 1970 454 4 speed Corvette, and what it would bring today......................
|03-26-2013 11:39 PM|
well, joy. I just replaced a worn wheel bearing on the rear driver side of my "new" 2006 ZXW wagon, and this one also has a negative camber tire wear issue - looks like i'll be adding the moog shim plates front and rear.....sigh. at least i caught it early before burning through a bunch of tires.
I thought they had resolved this issue after 2005 model year.....
|03-25-2013 12:19 PM|
|amc49||It's in the design of the independent rear suspension, they sag to off camber when the rubber bushings loosen up. ALL do it to different degrees, I worked on '60s-'70s Vettes that did the same.|
|03-25-2013 04:45 AM|
rear camber cheapest fix worked for me
I had a 2002 focus wagon with SEVERE rear camber problem. I got ripped off by the former owner he must have put some used tires on it because there was no wear when i bought it but within 1000 km or so it was shredded on the inside edges of the 2 rear tires with steel belting sticking out - it could have easily blown on the highway and killed me! took it to the dealership and they nicely replaced my front springs for free (recall, different issue). Told me the rear camber was way off spec, like 3 deg. or so due to worn springs.
new springs $200 AND control arms were not in the budget for such an old car, The control arm bolts were pretty well seized, so this would have been a very costly fix (time &/or $$$).
So i did some research and found this solution that fixed it perfectly.
MOOG Rear Camber Adjustment Kit (Amazon $65.86)
Product ID: MOOG-K80002
"Problem Solver Alignment Shim; Allows 1/2 to 1 degree of + or - camber adjustment."
I installed these shims but cheated and used both shims to get 1.5 deg. of adjustment i think (memory bad). used threadlocker on the bolts as there was not as much thread biting, but still seemed solid.
then since i needed tires i got tires and a wheel alignment - after that i put at least 60,000 kms on it before i sold the car. all tires wore perfectly normal after that and handling seemed great.
There you have it, cheapest cheap fix for the focus rear wheel camber tire wear issue for 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 wagon.
since the car served me very well after this issue and a timing belt, i just last week upgraded to a 2006 wagon...does anyone know if the 06 can also suffer the rear camber issue? I have a lot of road noise but otherwise it seems perfect.
|03-21-2012 12:32 PM|
|Renbee||Thanks for the prompt response Geezer. My car has Camber adjustment bolts. I hope to take a closer look this weekend and start ordering parts for the repair. Perhaps toe in will improve somewhat with new control arms, however, I suspect I'll have to adjust the camber regardless. Hopefully the rest of the suspension, front and back, isn't so bad so the repair shop will refuse to attempt 4 wheel alignment! :(|
|03-20-2012 06:00 PM|
There's no hidden warranty. Around 2004 or 05 (can't remember exactly) Ford finally acknowledged that their rear chamber specs were too high (issued a service bulletin). Lots of Foci were delivered with negative camber numbers at the top of the spec range. Large amounts of camber combined with even moderate amounts of toe-in (even within spec numbers) in the rear end eats tires (the inside edges). Fords fix was to offer a revised upper control arm that reduced negative camber by 1 degree. The problem, or "catch" in this case, was that to get the arms your car had to be out of the rear camber spec range. Very few, if any, cars were out of the range because the spec range was very broad. For those early cars that range was +0.3 degrees to -2.3 degrees.
The real fix is to reduce rear camber to no more than -1.5 degrees and reduce the amount of allowable toe-in to no more than 0.04 inches. To reduce the camber you'll need to get a camber correction devise (such as camber bolts or adjustable upper control arms) as camber is not adjustable in stock form. The bolts work fine and cost the least. Naturally if your control arm bushings are shot, you'll need to replace them. Toe is adjusted by the bolts that attach the inward ends of the lower control arms.
|03-20-2012 01:30 PM|
I just joined the forum as I was gathering info on Focus camber and toe in adjustments. I have a 2001 Ford Focus that I bought used, which is certainly well beyond factory warranties. I've noted a few comments in this thread related to control arm issues and wondered if there was a hidden warranty, as I've heard from my repair shop that rear control arm bushing wear was a notorious problem with the earlier model Focus and he did not recommend replacement due to my vehicle advancing age; ie., don't throw good money after bad.
The camber on my vehicle has gotten visibly worse as the control arm bushing bolts have migrated out of centre, and the right wheel is worse than the left and has markedly become toed out. I live in Canada, and can tell you that my vehicle has become unsafe to drive on icy highways due to the rear wheels competing for traction and steering the rear of the car unpredictably as one wheel gains traction over the other, and takes the rear of the car into its particular track! Also, inside tire wear has been outrageous over the past 6 months. Unfortunately, finances are such that I need to make this car last until the fall, and am looking to replace the contol arms myself and see if I can get it realligned. If there are hidden warranties of the control arms that I'd need to fight for, I'd appreciate any links or info that can be recommended.
I'd also like to know if anyone is aware of how to adjust the toe so I can at least make the car more drivable until these repairs are done. We are a one car family and I need a car for work, so can't do such ambitious repairs until I have some time off later this spring.
|10-21-2010 06:33 PM|
|2003focusowner||This is bunk. I had this problem and Ford wouldn't replace the control arms. Said my car was still within thier "specs" for changing the arms.|
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