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Thread: "How To" Relocating battery to old airbox location Reply to Thread
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Topic Review (Newest First)
05-13-2006 09:59 AM
MARS haha.... nice write up steve!! honestly ur set does look better in person.....
05-12-2006 09:04 AM
Originally posted by HTPerformance
Just rotate the battery 180 degrees and then the power leads will not be in the way.
The way it sits now the battery is positioned exactly as it is in Duratec powered Foci, same height, same terminal location.

If you turn the battery 180 degrees then your positive and negative posts are in the wrong place and I don't think the cables will reach.

You could buy the same group size battery with reversed terminals but I am not sure about the clearance to the hood with the battery pointing in that direction.
05-11-2006 04:08 PM
Just rotate the battery 180 degrees and then the power leads will not be in the way.
05-11-2006 04:01 PM
Originally posted by zedeater
Very good idea, but looks like anyone using a strut tower brace will have to permantly remove it to perform this mod.

Hmm, never thought about that since I don't have a brace.

Does anyone make a brace for the Duratec cars? I would bet that would work.
05-10-2006 07:08 PM
zedeater Very good idea, but looks like anyone using a strut tower brace will have to permantly remove it to perform this mod.
05-08-2006 11:44 AM
WD40 ^^^Train horns.

Hey, this is a nice write up.
Added to the Complete "How To" Archive Link and SVTF "How To" links thread.
05-08-2006 09:34 AM
jaykirs Nice write up! I was thinking about that relocation myself to make way for some train horns in the future. LOL
05-08-2006 08:50 AM
FORDSVTPARTS Well, it doesn't hit my stock hood liner.

The Duratec cars use the same battery as the Zetec cars so I wasn't too worried about clearance.

The tray I used is made for a Duratec and it is in the stock location for a Duratec so it's all good.

I was at a meet yesterday and there was a twin to my car there, CD silver '02 SVT but his was stone stock.

It was funny watching people try to figure out why they looked so different under the hood.
05-07-2006 08:57 AM
onebluemcm Nice How-To there!

Have you any idea how much hood clearance there is? I'm assuming if there is any, it's minor and the hood closes for ya. Asking b/c I isntalled a Dynamat hoodliner with stock battery location and air box and the hoodliner gets compressed a bit by the air box when the hood is down all the way. The hoodliner is about 3/4 inch thick and I'd estimate it is getting compressed by 1/8 - 1/4 inch by the stock air box. Just curious, Nice work
05-06-2006 11:11 PM
Relocating battery to old airbox location-how to inside

I thought I would put in a little write up of my battery relocation project.

The Zetec engine bay is less than user friendly with the stock airbox and battery locations so this is what I came up with.

The Duratec cars have their battery where the Zetec airbox sits so I started with a Duratec battery tray.

The Duratec tray is pretty important becuase it has pedestals built into the bottom of it which provide the correct lift to keep the tray off the top of the engine mount while also keeping the battery the proper distance from the hood.

This pic is of a slightly damaged tray, the damage does not matter though because all the areas marked in red get cut off anyway.

The reason for all the trimming is that even though it is a stock Duratec tray it interferes a bit with the fender/ engine mount brace and some of the bits behind the battery as well, The Zetec and Duratec use different braces.

The yellow dot you can see on the left "leg" of the tray gets drilled to allow a bolt to go through which aligns with an existing hole in the brace.

No wiring needs any alteration, it all reaches the battery in this location. The only minor exception is the two small ground wires on the drivers side, I did have to add a jumper to give them a bit more length. I used an old motorcycle battery cable with an eyelet on each end to provide a good solid ground.

The pic above shows a couple areas that were trimmed circled in red and the yellow circle shows the ground jumper connection. As you can see, the area towards the rear had to be trimmed to allow clearance for the small bracket with the wiring harness attatched to it.

I used the stock battery strap to hold the battery down in it's new location, It is bolted to another brace that runs behind the battery and comes over the top to a semi-crude but very strong and functional hold down tensioner. The "L" bracket is bolted on with the same bolt that holds the tray to the brace.

This was the first variation of the tensioner which I was not quite happy with, It has been replaced by a long bolt with an eyelet on the end and the strap loops through the eyelet and gets bolted to itself and the tensioning is done under the "L" bracket.

I did not have to drill any holes in the car, cut no wires and permanently altered nothing while freeing up a huge amount of space behind the drivers side headlight for (in my case) an intake with a rather large filter.

The battery is a very tight fit in the tray now, once the front of it is in place I actually have to push the back down so it "snaps" under the retainer lip in the back of the tray.

When all is said and done it looks right and the battery is solidly mounted.

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