|04-22-2013 11:02 PM|
Thank you! Indeed relays seem to play an important role in my Ford Focus 2005 ZXW cold start problem. Switching around R1 (ignition relay) with next to it R3 (cooling fun high speed) resolved the problem (or hitting the fuse box during starter cranking the engine). At first, I fought R1 was bad, but after $1 substitution relay from 2006 Ford from KennyUpull junk yard that did not resolve it, I swapped them again and it worked. The quality of those relays is a mystery :)
The previous owner was doing "press a gas pedal and wait 2 minutes + dance around" routine to start it.
Not sure which one is "power hold relay" though.
|01-13-2013 01:20 PM|
|12-27-2012 08:10 PM|
|12-23-2012 02:23 PM|
I am going to revive a very old thread. My 07 with the 5-speed does the same thing. At least with the OP his is clockwork, mine is not.
I was told, the fuel pump is not priming properly. I was also told to turn the key and wait 5 seconds, turn it off, repeat and it should work.
First, IMHO and I am not a mechanic that theory is false it does not work. Secondly, If the fuel pump is not priming properly than it should always happen during cold weather starts.
For example, and I paid close attention today. My Focus was parked on Friday at 3PM. It sat until Sunday at 7:30AM.
When I turned the key, without this priming theory.She fired up without so much as a hiccup. Now where is the fuel after sitting idle for almost 48 hours? Certainly not in the fuel pump, yet she started right up.
So, I drive 1 mile up the road. The car is fully warmed up, I shut it off, for about 10 minutes.
She again starts right up. So, my next destination is 10 miles away. When I get there, the car is literally off for less than 30 seconds.
What happens, the long crank before she starts. Now the fuel pump has long been primed, so again IMHO the long cranks should not occur.
That tells me there is something going on with the computer in some of the earlier Focus's.
If the fuel pump was a certainty, I would spend the 500 plus and replace it. Only because I am OCD when it comes to my cars. From looking at this thread, I can see the problem remains a mystery.
|06-05-2011 10:55 AM|
I bought a used ZXW wagon with 5-Spd manual and 2.0 Duratec with 133,000Km on it in March, 2011. I had the same hard starting problem you guys have mentioned and have downloaded the TSB from Ford but didn't want to pay Ford for flashing my ECU, so I was willing to 'live with it' until I get some time to do some 'real' troubleshooting. Since then my alternator went when I was out of town and had to get it replaced for $500, but that's another story. On certain occasions when accelerating, my gas pedal sticks at the upper end of travel (idle position) and gets worse if I just let off the gas and it pedal just 'slams' up. It was to the point that it was dangerous not being able to push the gas pedal down smoothly because I had to overcome the initial sticking.
Anyways, I brought my car down to my buddy's garage who has all the tools I needed to troubleshoot this. I removed the accelerator cable linkage from the Throttle Body (TB) but it was free of any sticking. Next I removed the intake hose to the TB and moved the butterfly plate back and forth to discover that it was sticking. I twisted it to max throttle (with the engine turned off), let it go and it really got stuck in the closed position. There was so much gum around the throttle plate and the housing and I knew that this was the cause of my sticky throttle. So I sprayed the sh!t out of the throttle body with carburetor cleaner and tested it again - no more sticky throttle to this day. Lo-and-behold, this cured my hard start at the same time. I haven't had any more problems with hard starting since I did this at the end of April, 2011. And to think I may have paid Ford to flash my ECU which may not have fixed the problem. Easy to fix and maintain - takes less than 15 minutes, including washing my hands after-wards.
This worked for me and it should be done every now and then to maintain a clean throttle body.
I hope this helps.
|05-01-2006 07:25 AM|
|KAG||abilath - Thanks for posting the information about the IAC valve. I really hope it works. Please let us know how it goes. I've been having the same issues with my Car.|
|05-01-2006 01:36 AM|
Okay. I spoke with a mechanic friend (non-Ford) this weekend and found that the only thing that he could think of that could cause this problem is an open, or stuck, IAC valve. The theory is that if the engine was still cold when it was last turned off, the IAC valve would still open to keep the idle high. Then, the next time the car is started, the valve is either not told to close or is stuck open and would result in a difficult start to an incomplete choke. This theory sounded reasonable to me (particularly since another user in these groups seemed to have solved his problem when the dealer replaced the IAC valve -among other things). Does this explanation sound feasible to anyone? Either way, I'm going to attempt to find an aftermarket IAC valve (or perhaps an '05 *automatic* version) this week. I'll let you know how it goes.
P.s. Any thoughts would be more than welcome.
|05-01-2006 01:35 AM|
I made a mental effort to completely avoid the accelerator as you suggested, but still had intermittent hard start issues.
Thanks for the suggestion,
|04-28-2006 04:22 AM|
So try Bubba's idea first (nothing to loose) and if it gets worse try keeping your feet away from the gas until you've started your car.
If either makes a difference (good or bad) then please share in a reply post!
|04-27-2006 02:12 AM|
|Andy04180||Thanks for the Info, i'll have to take that up to the dealership this weekend and talk to them about it. One day they'll figure it out.|
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