|06-23-2014 01:48 PM|
|Ibanhead817||You are are right..the engine was bucking and snorting..super glad non interference motor..I went to local tool.only store and tried a 55 and 60 torx, neither fit but I got lucky and tried a 5/16" allen head bit and it fit perfect..learning a lot about the 2.0 dohc motors.|
|06-23-2014 01:41 PM|
|Ibanhead817||This forum is so awesome !! I have been doing chevy and ford for years, small and big blocks, but everybody posting here about their experiences helped me figure out problems on my 02' Zts dohc and now a friend of mines car..I am really digging my Focus, and even when the engine foes I will re-do it or put another one in it..|
|05-26-2013 01:00 AM|
|Deus Machina||FWIW, finally had a day off enough (forced day off; school is jacking with my ability to actually do the required work) to put the windage tray back on, glue the oil pan back into place, gather up the cat and AC mounts, actually start the timing belt replacement... and find out that the belt seems to be too long. The tensioner won't even touch it.|
|05-07-2013 06:02 PM|
Oh, and I didn't drop the cat out completely, for anyone else that may need to do this. I have no idea what the big compression fitting on the side is for, I assume EGR or vacuum, but it's very literally impossible to remove in my situation.
I just took the heat shield off, unfastened the cat from the exhaust manifold on one end and the exhaust on the other, and it drops enough that there is ample room to wiggle the windage plate out around it.
|05-07-2013 05:21 PM|
|Deus Machina||Yeah. When I go back out to put the windage plate back on, I'll get a pair of slip-joints onto the leftovers of the tool. If I can't get it out with those, screw it. I'll cut it off and drill it out if I ever see the need. Until then, it's just doing what the plug did anyway, and I can use the old stick trick to time it.|
|05-07-2013 03:19 PM|
|150mphzetec||good news is good :) another focus gets to live|
|05-07-2013 02:25 PM|
After a long and fruitless impasse, my foe and I have come to a mutually beneficial agreement.
I got the tool to break off at the base. The knurled portion is torqued in, I'll just leave it there for now. It can't cause any harm how it is.
I did have to get the windage plate off, took a hacksaw to it (I had a mini one set aside trying this earlier) and broke it off at the base, can't find the exhaust gaskets, but the hard part is done. It's just replacing the original plug for now, and if it ever works free, I'll just put the plug back in.
Maybe I'll try getting a pair of vice grips on it later, but it doesn't feel like it's going anywhere.
I still need to find out the torque specs on the windage plate. :/
|04-27-2013 11:58 AM|
|150mphzetec||congress should ban these crank locking tools|
|04-26-2013 01:07 AM|
Use these actions wisely!!!!
Update: So I managed to get the tool out. Here's how:
The tool was bent at about a 45. Probably the same as many since that is the angle the crankshaft forced upon it. I noticed that if I backed the crank onto it, it would hit it at the opposite side, reverse to the bend.
I used a socket on the crank to give the tool a couple sharp smacks and it bent back and cracked at the vertex. I bent it a little more and the long piece fell through the bottom. The crank bolt loosened up a time or two but I just gave it a little impact love and it seemed to give me a couple extra swings.
I put the original bolt back in and it threaded in nicely, even when torqued.
I will say, this method may not be recommended since it means reversing the rotation of the crank, but it was better than other options. The system is all timed up now and running as it should. I only ended up having to remove the oil pan.
Hope this helps someone, maybe even the OP!
|04-25-2013 02:59 PM|
Here is my refined idea: buy a long skinny hacksaw blade (pictured). Weld/attach onto it a round, or thin flat, piece of steel. Bend it, if needed, to fit into view hole. Go to town on it! Have you tried something like this?
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