|03-04-2013 01:31 AM|
The weld may have heat treated the area to make bolt undrillable. Picking an expensive drill bit would prove that out. Regardless, I can think of 2-3 ways to fix that without using a welder at all. One could easily pick correct sheetmetal screws and drill holes for 4 of them surrounding old bolt and install, the 4 would be enough to hold that mount down.
Hard to believe someone thinks he may have to get another car over that...............
|03-03-2013 07:53 PM|
That bolt is pretty easy to access with a drill and its just a weld nut on the body. I would get a quality drill (about 3/16 to start) and carefully center punch the bolt. Drill through the bolt and then drill out to the appropriate tap size and run a tap through it.
This is really not a that bad a job and a lot cheaper than a new car.
|03-03-2013 07:30 AM|
|goinloco1||and why has no one mentioned pulling the fender liner to get at it from the bottom side.|
|03-03-2013 02:35 AM|
One other hint - almost always when you drill these it's impossible to get the hole in dead center.
What you do is get the hole started then use a diamond tip bit on a Dremel to widen the hole in the direction it needs to go to center.
|03-03-2013 02:33 AM|
I used to drill holes in a machine shop years ago.
You need the right drill bits and they need to be sharp, and they will get very dull very quick if you don't use cutting oil to lube the bit.
Carbite tip (colbalt will likely NOT work very well) and cutting oil (not motor oil, get cutting oil) and a slow speed to start followed by moderate speed, that will cut through it. Even if the top was hardened by welding. have an assistant continue to drip cutting oil on it while you drill.
|03-02-2013 11:38 PM|
|whimsicalpouch2||that was the same bolt that i thought i broke when i did my engine mounts 2 weeks ago. scariest pop ever trying to get that off with a breaker bar. too bad i didn't put any anti seize on it before putting back in ahhah|
|03-02-2013 07:37 PM|
interesting bit on the stainless welding.
Yeah I don't know how they keep breaking drill bits. You can drill the length of the bolt, and keep opening it up if all else fails. it should collapse in on itself.
|03-02-2013 07:26 PM|
|03-02-2013 07:23 PM|
Drill will work, but you'll need to get things out of the way for access. Grinding the top flat will let you center punch & drill easier, as well as removing the surface that the welding attempts may have hardened.
It'll take time, but if you work up in sizes to avoid taking out the threads you'll eventually be able to pick out the last half moon shaped piece of bolt that's usually left because the drilling is seldom exactly centered.
If a tap isn't available, a spare bolt of the same size with slots cut lengthwise in the threads makes a good one use thread chaser to clean out the welded in nut.
To avoid rushing it & getting frustrated, remember what you said about this job being worth the whole car! Take breaks with your beverage of choice (grin) and it'll be done before you know it!
P.S. - hah! we're all typing at once again...
|03-02-2013 07:13 PM|
That's precisely what left handed cobalt drill bits were made for.
The shop you to sounds like the lube monkeys got access to tools while nobody was looking.
Definitely remove the mount to get access, and so it isn't pushing on the remnant and helping hold it in place.
Absolute, worse case scenario:
Grind it flat, have a piece of flat bar stock welded to the mount to make it wider footprint, and it gets a new bolt hole and threadsert into the unibody/frame.
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