|01-18-2013 06:13 PM|
The 180 mA or so drain is normal.
It was way lower today.
I was searching for this problem last night, and it seems it takes a couple of hours for the drain to reduce.
My problem was that the trunk was closed, but not latched. Thus the trunk light was on.
|01-18-2013 01:31 AM|
I think I may have the same problem.
Parents 2002 SE Zetec.
Was it the ignition switch?
|01-01-2013 05:26 PM|
|Covmister||To the original poster of this thread; message me your email and the year make model and engine (sohc or dihc) and I'll get it from all data tomorrow at work|
|01-01-2013 09:08 AM|
|12-31-2012 07:08 PM|
|Covmister||Well if it drops that much after that fuse is pulled sounds like that may be the source of your issue....ignition switch....|
|12-31-2012 06:13 PM|
|kyman||Whynotthinkwhynot, Car will not start after sitting several days. Do you know where I can find directions for replacing the switch? I work at the Kentucky Truck Plant and can get it on our system but am off til Jan 03. Hoping to get it fixed by then.|
|12-31-2012 05:41 PM|
Is your car having problems starting after sitting for a few days or something?
It sounds like you have a bad ignition switch since you dropped down to 30 ma after pulling the ignition hot. The stereo should pull a little even with the key off for memory, and some of the other electronics might also. Nothing that would keep you from starting after a week of sitting.
|12-31-2012 03:40 PM|
|kyman||Put multi meter in line. Showed 180ma. Drops down to 30ma when under hood fuse going to ignition switch, starter is pulled. Should I get a wiring diagram and trace the wires or any easier ideas where to start?|
|12-29-2012 11:50 PM|
that's normal for the radio - try it again and you'll notice that it displays "1 Hour" when you turn it on with the key off.
A test light is okay for basic live/dead tests, but if you can get your hands on a digital multimeter, that will tell us more. If you search the forum archives, you'll find some typical amp readings that other users have observed on their Focii.
Whether you're using a test light or ammeter, note that the vehicle electronics will reboot and enter a state of high activity for several minutes after they are re-energized. Therefore, ignore the initial tester behavior, and then make your observations after the electronics have settled into their steady-state operation, in the sub-amp range. If you're seeing greater than an amp, then systematically pull fuses in both boxes. Don't turn on any high-load accessories or you'll probably blow the fuse on your multimeter.
|12-29-2012 11:40 PM|
|Covmister||i cant really comment on the radio being on when the keys are out but a good way to test the parasitic drain is to use a dmm set to amps dc, take off the neg battery cable and attach the red lead to the bat neg and the black lead to the neg cable. ideally you should see about 50 ma or less, i do know that our fords do draw a bit more because the PATS system takes a bit longer to tell all the systems to "sleep" try keeping all doors open but trick the car into thinking they are shut by closing the strikers, then wait for the amp draw to be around 50 ma or wait 45 min or so then watch the dmm and start flipping switches....defrost...headlight....radio....glovebox open close...ect. this will help locate the draw easier because the car still thinks its asleep as long as you keep the keys out of the ignition...when you find the cause of the draw you will notice the draw drops....case in point glove box light is on...take bulb out draw lowers....radio does the same...its a pita to find parasitic draw but it can be done. good luck i am not electric god but i do know a thing or two about a thing or two|
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