|01-17-2013 05:12 PM|
|Incognito27||so it seems it has to do with cold weather.... cause when it is above 0 its seems to be fine , but under zero it seems to have a problem everytime i start it up. Only way around it is to turn off stat again and barely push gas until it hits second gear then i can give her like i normally do.|
|01-17-2013 11:35 AM|
i have checked the PCV hose , However it was just by feel as its a pain to get at. come spring i will have another look at it. The Booster check valve i will try what you mentioned and go from there.
PS today is a cold day so i am gonna see if the car bogs today.
|01-17-2013 12:45 AM|
I don't think it's sensor, although they commonly go bad.
Have you POSITIVELY checked or changed the PCV hose where it attaches at the BACK BOTTOM of the intake?? Don't say you've 'checked it' if you haven't crawled under the car, just screwing yourself. Look at the last 3-4 inches before the hose goes into the intake and FEEL it, if like bubblegum you need new hose. The most common vacuum leak on these cars.
To check the brake booster check valve. Start motor up, let it warm at idle. Shut motor off and then within 5 seconds step on brake pedal ONE TIME, see if you have soft pedal then. Bend close and listen for a short soft hissing sound too. If check valve is working, you will get soft pedal up to 2 or 3 pushes and the hiss those 2-3 times, then it will get hard and the hiss stops. If hard the very first time you push it and no hiss then check valve or booster or hose is bad.
|01-16-2013 10:32 AM|
So car is in the shop , and the mechanic called me and he test drove it and did not bog , but he did throw his computer on and it showed history of the Cylinder head temp senor was out of range. He also told me this can still cause the bogging. However anywhere i have seen and read issue with this sensor are due to temperature ranges not bogging.
Anyone have any experience with the sensor to confirm or deny that it can cause bogging
|12-21-2012 04:50 PM|
|Incognito27||no brake fluid loss. But the check valve seems like a good possibility|
|12-21-2012 04:29 PM|
Sounds like the Brake Booster Check Valve took a dive or the diaphragm is leaking. Could be that the seals in the master are leaking, which will eat the booster.
Notice any loss of brake fluid over the last months?
|12-21-2012 09:50 AM|
I will have a look at the coil wireing and see if i can trace any melting or damage.
When i had the mechanic change it he tested it with a vaccum gauge, or whatever he did to make sure he wasn`t installing a bad part.
So since we got 25cm of snow today i will probably not get a chance to check anything until atleast i shovel most of my snow. but i will report back once i have check the above things and let you know.
|12-21-2012 06:37 AM|
OK first: tune up, and while you're at it replace your brake booster check valve. That's what you say when you get there to the parts store. They will know what it is, it's a generic part. You can pull yours off if you want- it's the 90 degree connector where the brake booster hose hits the booster.
2) Plug wires
3) Air filter
4) Fuel filter
5) PCV check.
6) MAF cleaning
7) TB cleaning
Now what Mike is referring to is the common problem we have with ignition coil power wires- the ones that plug in through a connector on the bottom of the coil. Pull on the wires individually to see if any come out of the connector. Then, if one does, replace the connector with a part from the Ford Dealer. If the wires don't come off, trace that wiring down and make sure there is no physical damage to it. Sometimes this is difficult because physical damage- like wires melting on the EGR feed tube- is ALWAYS where it is difficult to see without reaching down in there and twisting the loom around. Definitely double check wiring in areas around hot exhaust stuff- including that EGR feed tube.
BTW, how do you know your EGR is working? Here's how to test an EGR valve- after you've cleaned it. Get where you can see the valve, put a hose on the other end, then suck lightly- about as much breath as it takes to fill up one cheek will operate the EGR valve. If it doesn't move, or you don't feel resistance to your vacuum- then it fails.
|12-21-2012 03:06 AM|
|mikebontoft||so, you're braking while accelerating? or by dead stop do you mean you're parked (auto or manual) and just revving it, and once it gets around that range it just starts to bog.... and you're pressing the brake down during the whole thing?|
|12-21-2012 01:50 AM|
If I hit the accelerator from a dead stop engine rpms go until about 2000 then engine starts to bog, at the same time brakes get hard as if I was pumping then when the car is turned off. If I tap the brake while I am moving it releives the pressure on the brake pedal and I can hit the accelerator again until it hits about 2000 rpms again then the brakes harden and engine bogs.
That is what is happening.
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