|12-03-2012 04:09 PM|
The aforementioned idle issues can also be caused by a thermostat stuck open. Happened just as described to me. The stock gauge reads normal and doesn't change from about 143* to at least 215* so it is not a good indicator of engine temperature. Mine ran from the 140s to the 180s erratically when the thermostat was stuck. It should normally operate at least 192* or so.
If you don't have a PCM reader (I use a scangauge) you can get a good idea if your thermostat is stuck open this way: If your heater is not as potent as it should be and you have idle issues, replace your thermostat. They are about $26 and though fiddly to change, not technically difficult. Small hands would be helpful but not required. I realistically spent about 3 hours doing it, but I'm kinda slow.
For me, after changing out the thermostat it cleared up the idle issues and I picked up about 3 mpg consistently over 3 tanks.
|12-03-2012 09:54 AM|
OK, an update on my high idle. My car is back to normal and running great!!!! All I can say is that run time and mileage was what worked for my car . . . more time than I thought it would take.
On a side note, about a month ago, I came across a guy in a new V6 Camaro with a stick that was making his left hand turn so, so slow. When we straightened out I got in the right lane and started running my '06 ZX3 (111,000 miles BTW) thru the gears and the dude in the Camaro hit it at about the same time. Up to about 60 mph. I stayed right with him, about 1 car length behind . . . after that I started catching this Camaro. At about 95 mph I was along side of this guy, passing him and laughing uncontrollably. Now, I was running my little ZX3 pretty hard but so was the Camaro, I could really hear him hitting the gears and high RPMs. Now, I know that it was only a V6 but supposedly 310 horsepower and he was driving it good . . . . I'd have taken it back to the Chevy dealer and demanded my money back after getting beaten by a Focus. Needless to say . . . this was a fun day!!!!!
|12-02-2012 08:17 PM|
|Hoops||Any updates to this issue? My 2005 is having this same issue after cleaning the throttle body. Currently throwing code po507 with high idle.|
|05-15-2012 10:57 AM|
|cyoun012||bump. any results? i cleaned out throttle body and IAC. now it sounds worse, and the idling problem is the same. still popping the p0507 code. i'm going to replace iac valve this weekend. Do i really have to change out the gaskets for TB and IAC?|
|05-13-2012 09:52 AM|
An update on my high idle problem . . . after about 1.5 - 2 weeks my idle is now starting to return to normal. The RPMs are coming down quicker and coming down to 750. It appears to take time to return to normal and it is running much better now. I probably didn't need to replace my AIC valve . . . oh well.
I also had to replace my throttle cable this weekend ?!?!?! I've never heard of a throttle cable going bad. Mine frayed between the gas peddle and the firewall and wouldn't allow the throttle to return to idle. I limped it home, got the part (dealer part only $107) and replaced it in about 5 minutes. Back on the road.
|05-02-2012 02:32 PM|
|dperry||I've tried cleaning my IAC valve twice with no luck, so I guess I'm wondering if I should just replace it to see if that fixes the problem. I just don't want to part with $100 or so just to get the same idle I currently have.|
|05-02-2012 12:44 PM|
I just went through the process of removing and cleaning a problem IAC valve, and then having to do it again three days later (!!) when the car developed a persistently high idle causing me to buy a new IAC valve.
The trick to removing w/o tearing off the intake manifold is to jack up the care fairly high so that you can reach up to where that little bugger sits crammed in nicely among other parts. there is just enogh room to get an 8mm ratcheting box wrench on the two little bolts holding the IAC on.
But the harder trick is fumbling with your new IAC to orient it so you can get these tiny bolts back in their holes. Just take a deep breath--you can do this. Its possible somebody with tiny hands could reach down to pin it in place while you search for the bolt holes. i did the replacement at 10:00 last night without a helper.
DEFINITELY take off your neg. battery cable and let the car sit for a while before you start it up.
|05-02-2012 11:12 AM|
The IAC valve is pretty difficult to get to and some on here I've seen say that it was easier to get to some of the bolts from the bottom .
Also might want to check for a cracked or split vacuum line too.
|05-02-2012 09:56 AM|
|cyoun012||I'm wondering if cleaning my Throttle Body just moved the gunk down into the IAC valve. I'm going to take it apart this weekend and try to clean it. I'm a rookie, so is there any advice out there so i don't it up?|
|05-02-2012 09:19 AM|
Sounds like the Idle Air Control valve is sticking or possibly needs replaced . I would try cleaning it first and if that doesn't work check into replacing it .
Also be sure to disconnect your negative battery cable for at least 15 minutes so the ECU can relearn the new parameters .
My rule of thumb is that anytime I do something to my Focus I disconnected the cable while I'm working on it and then pop it back on when finished.
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