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Thread: Manual transmission not shifting in cold weather Reply to Thread
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Topic Review (Newest First)
12-04-2012 04:45 AM
wisebag02 I don't know for sure, CG, but have you checked your motor mounts? don't forget the "dog bone" one underneath on the tranny.
12-04-2012 12:38 AM
CGfreak102 So, no more leaking fluid onto my feet. But i am noticing another issue while driving it, which has only been happening since i replaced my master cylinder.

Heres the issue;
I have been noticing when shifting from 1st to 2nd, 2nd to 3rd, and occasionally 3rd to 4th.
As i am letting off the clutch i feel the gears engaging, but then my car kinda stutters, sorta like a da, da, da ,da noise. It does not happen every time i shift tho and is hard to replicate.
12-01-2012 09:25 PM
CGfreak102 Replaced the master Cylinder today. Working great so far. Thanks for the help everyone.
11-30-2012 08:16 PM
CGfreak102 Yup, got one ordered will be picking it up. found a nice guide with pics on how to do it also on here.

Also changing out my fuel filter.
11-30-2012 08:14 PM
sailor CG - leakage there means new master cyl., but it's not tragic - I just did mine & autozone had an EXACT factory match for $35.

And the instructions you can find on the site here work fine... Checked 'em when I did mine just for chuckles to see how well it matched my car.

(when you read them, the only difference I found was NOT having to unbolt the "block", slide clip was all I needed to touch there, you'll see it on the new part)

Luck!
11-30-2012 06:26 PM
Eiron Sorry, my Saab doesn't have a white plastic thing...

I'm going to guess that this is the piston rod to the clutch master cylinder, which would mean that the seals have worn enough to allow fluid to push past & dribble out the back end (where the pedal connects).

I can buy a rebuild kit for mine for about $12 that includes all new seals & washers, but I don't know if the same kind of thing is offered for the Focus. It also requires a smooth internal bore to the master cylinder, which sometimes no longer exists. But at $12, it's a cheap repair to try before being forced to buy a new master at $200 (again, Saab parts & pricing).


P.S.,
Am I the only one who thinks of Felix the Cat every time I see/hear/say the words "Master Cylinder"?
11-30-2012 05:14 PM
CGfreak102 Eiron,
It has dropped to just below the max line, I have also found out where the fluid comes from. when releasing the clutch a small amount comes out of the whole where the white plastic thing goes in and out.
11-30-2012 03:52 PM
Eiron Kind of... it's actually pretty easy if you have the right tools. (Just like everything else, right?)

The fluid doesn't like to drain out on its own, so you need to either push it or pull it out. Some people like to have a friend push the brake pedal while they crack the bleeder valve. Some people like to use a hand-held vacuum pump (like a Mighty Vac) to suck the fluid out from the wheel/caliper. I prefer to push it out from the reservoir with a pressure bleeder. I like the Motive Pressure Bleeder. If you use a friend or a vacuum pump, then you have to keep topping up the reservoir to make sure you don't pull any air into your lines. If you use the pressure bleeder, it constantly feeds in fresh fluid as you drain out the old stuff.

Pressure bleeding goes roughly like this:
1) Buy two liters of DOT 3 (or DOT 4) brake fluid.
2) Suck out as much old fluid as you can from the reservoir, then fill it back up to the "Full" line with fresh fluid.
3) Add a liter of fluid to your pressure bleeder & attach it to the reservoir.
4) Pump it up to 10 to 20 psi, then go around & bleed each wheel & the clutch.
5) Remove at least 8 ounces from each line.
6) You might need to re-pump the bleeder if you want the fluid to keep moving out quickly. I wouldn't pump it up above 20 psi.
7) Make sure you don't run the bleeder dry, or you might push air into whichever line you're working on at that time. Fortunately, with a pressure bleeder, it's quick & simple to get all of the air out of any part of the system.

I'm sure there's a proper bleed order for the Focus wheels, but I don't recall what it is.
11-30-2012 02:32 PM
wisebag02 I don't know if I know how to flush an entire brake system. Do you just bleed it all out through the brake bleeder screws while adding new fluid to the reservoir?
11-30-2012 11:51 AM
Eiron CGfreak102, have you tracked the leak down? And have you verified that the fluid level is dropping in the reservoir?

I was wondering if your over-filling of the reservoir might've provided a travel path for the excess fluid, allowing it to drip onto the pedal? (I don't know the configuration of the setup on the Focus, so I don't know if this is possible.)


wisebag02, yes, it's a lot less hassle & expense to flush this once a year (or two for the brakes) than it is to ignore it until it gives you proplems. Not to mention the safety factor involved with maintaining your brake system! Heck, just always having a nicely working clutch is well worth the few minutes it takes to do this!
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