|11-19-2013 09:02 PM|
|dr64ml68||where r ur pictures?|
|05-04-2013 10:21 PM|
|05-04-2013 10:18 PM|
omg i juuuuust worked on my passenger handle today almost all day and finished and i get on and find this thread. So heres my experience.
A friend of mine broke my passenger door handle(the metal tab that was outlined in your pics). So i took my handle off, which is really easy to figure out btw even without having ever taken one off before, and took a trip to my local salvage yard.
After looking forever for damn door handles with a lock(zx3) i found one. Well apparently this happens alot because most of the door handles were already taken.
Get back to my pad and install the new door handle only to find that my door would work in every circumstance except when the door locks, then unlocks the handle wouldnt release the door. I still had to open from the inside. If the door was unlocked already(by pulling the inside handle) the door would work fine. I sat there for hours trying to figure out what the hell was going on. I compared rods, i installed, reinstalled, re-reinstalled and no luck. I took my latch out and messed with it and NOTHING. I finally got mad and took a hammer to the thing out of anger and voila. The latch RELEASED! Apparently something on the inside of the latch mechanism started sticking and when i hit it i knocked it free. My door now works 100%(at least until it sticks again). I hit the plastic part on the latch inside of the door not the outside. Hope this helps.
|04-18-2013 01:28 PM|
Does anyone have the Pictures, I have the same issue but i am having issues removing the interior handle section with the key section in it. I have removed the 2 T20 screws long and short, I have also removed the exterior handle but i cant for some reason remove the section that needs replaced.
It seems as though the alum rod is preventing the handle from dropping and the plastic rect casing wont move so that i can located and disconnect the key section.
|01-20-2013 11:49 AM|
So this also happened to me. I need to order this part, but I'm not sure what it's called. Does anyone know the name of that part?
|12-07-2012 04:47 PM|
05 Rear Door Panel, and Lock remove and repair
Here is a COMPLETE AND DETAILED description of my experience at this task.
I'm not responsible for any mishaps you may have happen while using my related experience to accomplish this.
My own experience Pass. Rear
First be sure the child safety switch is in the right position - CCW.
Easy job !! - I found the gears to be out of time can be done in an hour,
BUT retiming made the PDL work for only 2-3 mo. I redid this procedure and removed the gear and little motor. Works fine now manually.
Tools - T-20 (or T15 will work too) and T30 torx sockets, a small flat screw driver, a thin wall Ό socket, plus a couple of basic tool box tools.
Front refers to the front of the car in these instructions
1 minute - Remove the triangle part at the rear of the window and above the main frame. Just 2 clips, pry gently. This creates ease when removing replacing the inner door panel.
10 minutes - With the window up, remove the panel Remove the 6 black torx screws around the outside of the panel (there are no push clips to worry about on the panel).
- Use the screwdriver to pry off the inside pull handle from the bottom 1st.
- Remove the 2 brass colored hex head Ό screws behind it.
- Behind the actual door opening handle there is a ½ round button that has to be removed and then remove the black torx screw behind it.
- Pull the panel gently out and up to remove it, being careful of the door opener handle and a wire harness attached.
- While pushing a sharp (like a ball point pen or paper clip) object in the small square hole on the side of the clip pull apart the wire clip.
- Lay the panel aside.
- Remove the triangle foam insulation piece from the bottom right of the door, by pulling out the 3 push clips.
- Where the cable (that goes from the door opening handle to the actual latch) attaches to the handle, carefully pull the plastic cap up FROM THE RIGHT SIDE where it has 2 side grooves, then remove the cable from the lock button there.
- Using a putty knife, separate the foam from the rear half of the door (half of top, all of the right side, and ½ of the bottom) so you have a window to work thru and use a small piece of duct tape to hold it open.
- Upper right, remove the oval 1x 1 ½ rubber plug.
- Remove the rear window track. Is not attached directly to the window, so its easy. Loosen the 2 flat chrome screws, then thru the "window" lift it up and remove it.
- On the rear/side of the door on the actual latch remove the 3 T-30 torx screws that mount the lock to the door.
Now the outside door opener handle.
- On the inside of the door there are 2 flat chrome torx screws holding it in place. Use a torx socket and remove the front one, but only back out the rear one most of the way, but leave it in a little bit.
- On the outside of the door, at back of the handle there is the smaller non movable trim - use the flat screw driver to pry out the right side first, and pivot/turn the rear out of the slot it is hooked in.
- Now pull/slide the actual handle to the rear and turn it out from the back.
- Now the assembly inside the door can be removed, but where the front screw comes out, be careful not to lose the plastic nut (about 1/4" square by 7/8 long) that is attached to the door skin.
- Remove the door handle parts from the lock mechanism and lay aside. They are attached by a clip around the rod that can be squeezed with needle nose pliers and a push down clip on the other point.
Remove the cover to the gear 10 minutes or however long you monkey with this Turn the unit so it looks L shaped, but with the horizontal leg being the long one. If you were looking at the top of the horizontal leg you will see where the lock cable attaches. There are 3 screws that need to be removed and 2 tabs. Gently pry off that cover to get to the gear. There does not seem to be an exact timing setting for the round gear to the screw gear.
Just lift the round gear off and look at the bottom. There is a track that a pin travels thru while the gear turns, but there is an area where there is no track for part of the revolution. Remount the gear so the pin is in that area. The two gears work fine from that point. Test if the cable will lock/unlock now to be sure you did it right.
Reassemble the door in the reverse order, but be aware when re-assembling the outside door parts, that at the rear, the inside part has 2 little tabs that MUST be pushed thru and snapped in place. Test a few times as you do, in case there may be another problem not yet uncovered.
|11-27-2012 11:42 PM|
I as well need a solution to my door locking problem. I'm a learning do it yourselfer, and my power lock on the front passenger door of my 2002 se wagon (zetec) stopped working. Prior to breaking, when I unlocked or locked (can't remember which) electronically, there was this awful grinding mechanical sound coming from the door. This happened a couple of random times, then the third time, poof, that was it. My power lock stopped working. The manual lock and door latch function still work. everything but the power lock on that door. So here goes, these are my questions:
- Would it be the door lock actuator going that would cause this
- if so, is there any way it can be repaired easily or would it have to be replaced
- could it be any other problem or would the actuator be the lone possible issue
- I have the door skin off and can't seem to spot it inside the door, is it embedded in the latch mechanism?
- do I have to replace the whole mechanism if it is the actuator
- can anyone post pics so I can see what I'm looking for
I tried to go over wangbungal's step by step instructions but the pictures aren't showing up on this post. Hopefully someone can help me so I don't have to go spend hundreds all for a stupid power lock on one door, especially with the wife nagging on me about how much of a pos my car is when all the problems I've run into so far have been ever so minor and easy fixes. Hopefully this post gets revived soon as I already have the door skin and vapor barrier off and its winter (I'm sure she'll never let me hear the end of it once she sees that lol). If not, I'll just wait till someone shows up on here to help.
Thanks a ton guys. Keep on focusing!
|11-24-2012 03:02 PM|
did you guys ever find a solution to this. My passenger door is having a similar issue. It started to make a terrible electrical sound when locking or unlocking. The it just froze all together. Couldn't get the door opened or closed. Somehow, not sure how, I got the door to release. I took the latch and electronic motor (attached to the latch) off and replaced it with a used one from Ebay. This didnt fully solve the issue. The door now opens, closes, lock and unlocks manually, and it locks electronically, but it wont unlock electronically.
The only way to unlock it is to pull the handle. I assume this is a linkage issue? Any thoughts? Did I just get a bad used lock?
|08-24-2012 06:20 PM|
|08-07-2012 10:12 AM|
I just replaced my power door lock because the drivers door would lock but it wouldn't unlock electronically via the door switch or remote (the passenger door still locks and unlocks, even when using the driverside switch). So I replaced the driver side and it still won't electronically unlock.
Anyone else had this problem?
Any idea's where to look?
I am starting to suspect something electrical in the wiring somewhere (I freaking hate working on electrical stuff)
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