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Topic Review (Newest First)
11-13-2012 09:42 AM
wrc_fan
Quote:
Originally Posted by karmakc View Post
A buddy of mine found rear brakes on a focus (he's sure the car isn't an ST or SVT), my guess is that they are advance track rear discs - how much is a reasonable offer to buy them at a pick and pull? And what should be pulled of exactly? The buddy also has a focus and loves wrenching on the car --- he's my go to guy for any work I want to get done on the ride.

Maybe I'll just go with that set up instead of dealing with the rear drums...
Provided that you can't buy the caliper bracket/spindle anymore, if you find a set its well worth your time to pull these off a car if found in a junkyard. I think I paid $150, but the LKQ I go to is kind of a pain. What you pay depends on the person at the checkout.

You need to get at a minimum, the ebrake cables, the soft brakelines, the spindle, the hub, and the caliper. I plan on getting new pads, rotors and wheel bearings when I get around to installing these. I think that's everything. The dust shields are optional too. The junkyard I got my set from was nice enough to use these to hold the car up at some point, so they weren't an option for me.
11-12-2012 08:03 PM
karmakc
Quote:
Originally Posted by amc49 View Post
Lubing the backing plate only lasts for a while, maybe 6 months to a year. You can grind the right angle end of shoe material to a radius and it will stop it forever. Did it to both my Focus after getting tired of relubing the backing plates. This is for squeal in a slow roll type traffic jam, when brake is barely on. It used to drive me crazy. Hasn't done it in years now and shoe material or brand doesn't matter.

With light brake pressure the right angle corner digs in and then snaps loose at high frequency, the backing plate is really a bit too thin and rings easily like a bell. Lubing rub points kills the vibration transfer to the backing plate to ring, but wears off with added brake dust. Knock the shoe end corner off and shoe cannot dig in anymore to vibrate. Don't even need to do all 4, just the bottom of back shoe and top of the front.
Thanks AMC, I'll keep that in mind!
11-12-2012 08:00 PM
karmakc
Quote:
Originally Posted by wrc_fan View Post
The brake setup on my '03 focus which has 97K miles:
Front: Stock calipers, stainless lines, Hawk hp+ pads, and centric rotors
Rear: Stainless lines, Centric drums, Centric shoes, and I put in new hardware kit and rear spindles when I did the rear brakes 2 yrs ago

Autoxs fine, even with sticky 225 tires. I run rota 15x7.5 wheels.

I do have a set of advance track rear disc brakes I was lucky enough to find in a pick and pull, but no need for those until I put on the big boy tires

I run whatever brake fluid is on sale at advance. I bleed the brakes at least twice a year.
A buddy of mine found rear brakes on a focus (he's sure the car isn't an ST or SVT), my guess is that they are advance track rear discs - how much is a reasonable offer to buy them at a pick and pull? And what should be pulled of exactly? The buddy also has a focus and loves wrenching on the car --- he's my go to guy for any work I want to get done on the ride.

Maybe I'll just go with that set up instead of dealing with the rear drums...
11-09-2012 08:16 AM
wrc_fan
Quote:
Originally Posted by karmakc View Post
WRC - are you running around with the stock brakes too or for AutoX did you upgrade them?
The brake setup on my '03 focus which has 97K miles:
Front: Stock calipers, stainless lines, Hawk hp+ pads, and centric rotors
Rear: Stainless lines, Centric drums, Centric shoes, and I put in new hardware kit and rear spindles when I did the rear brakes 2 yrs ago

Autoxs fine, even with sticky 225 tires. I run rota 15x7.5 wheels.

I do have a set of advance track rear disc brakes I was lucky enough to find in a pick and pull, but no need for those until I put on the big boy tires

I run whatever brake fluid is on sale at advance. I bleed the brakes at least twice a year.
11-09-2012 02:45 AM
sleepyboy I highly recommend SS brake lines for the stock setup. Makes it feel so much better. I've never had a problem with the squealing much in the rear after lubing them up.
11-09-2012 02:24 AM
amc49 Lubing the backing plate only lasts for a while, maybe 6 months to a year. You can grind the right angle end of shoe material to a radius and it will stop it forever. Did it to both my Focus after getting tired of relubing the backing plates. This is for squeal in a slow roll type traffic jam, when brake is barely on. It used to drive me crazy. Hasn't done it in years now and shoe material or brand doesn't matter.

With light brake pressure the right angle corner digs in and then snaps loose at high frequency, the backing plate is really a bit too thin and rings easily like a bell. Lubing rub points kills the vibration transfer to the backing plate to ring, but wears off with added brake dust. Knock the shoe end corner off and shoe cannot dig in anymore to vibrate. Don't even need to do all 4, just the bottom of back shoe and top of the front.
11-09-2012 02:00 AM
karmakc WRC Geezer, thank you for your inputs.

I will apply them shortly!

WRC - are you running around with the stock brakes too or for AutoX did you upgrade them?
11-08-2012 09:45 AM
Geezer WRC's correct on properly lubing the backing plate where the shoes touch them. This was a very common complaint/problem on early Foci even when they were new. Ford issued a service bulletin showing the exact places to lube the backing plat. I'm pretty sure its in the "how to's" someplace. Only a very little grease is needed!
11-08-2012 09:38 AM
Geezer
Quote:
Originally Posted by karmakc View Post
Would the new shoes and drums help resolve the squeaky rear brakes in the wet?

And when does one know when it's time to make changes? My brakes aren't bad, as far as I can tell, but I don't want to deal with a drastic drop in performance per se...like an emergency stop gone wrong...

Most front pads have built in wear indicators that are designed to rub on the rotor and cause a high pitched squeak when they start getting low. This may be what you are hearing. Secondly, pad friction material is readily visible through the caliper. Rule of thumb is if it's less than 1/8 th inch thick it's time to replace them. Rear shoes are harder to inspect but "tend" to last about twice as long as the pads (they only do about 30% of the braking). Only an actual inspection (removing the drum) will confirm this. In the old days they had a nice little inspection port in the backing plate that made this so much easier.
11-08-2012 07:57 AM
wrc_fan ^^ most likely its the contact points of the shoes on the brake backing plate. When you install the new shoes, clean off that plate with the afore mentioned brake clean and get all the dust out of there. Now you'll take a bit of hi temp grease and apply it in the specific locations. Do some searching, you should find an example.
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