|10-21-2012 09:52 PM|
Never in all the hundreds of motors I've built including many that ran way over 7000 rpm would I ever, EVER dream of running an engine hard in extreme heat at 6000 rpm longterm on FIVE W-TWENTY weight oil!
Don't be surprised if the bearings are dead, that probably killed the other engine as well. You got all the earmarks of it.
If the pump looks good it IS, there will be undue wear on a bad one. You can't pump what is not there (almost zero oil weight).
No one in their right mind dogs an engine like that with no true oil pressure gauge on it, where I come from it's considered stupid. I mean mechanical not electric gauge. If the oil getting too hot you would have seen it in gauge behavior a long, long time ago. You would have also caught pressure flutters that disappear almost instantly too that would have alerted you to oil getting pumped out too if paying attention.
You are running water for oil that when it gets hot turns into less than water. And using a stock light.............?!?!!
Nothing personal at all of course but I see some pretty serious error there.
|10-15-2012 12:36 PM|
|VEGAS||I garaged the car ATM, I am driving my stock car..|
|10-15-2012 12:34 PM|
You dont have the full picture.. Leaving the vent connected to the intake is not a Option, it killed a motor doing this. I am not risking $4000 again. This time the warranty is not there since I got a warning that since my car came with a 2.0L that they wont replace it again, I drained all the oil out of my last motor Via the Vent on the Valve cover.. when the motor runs at high RPM for over half a hour the oil becomes a mist and gets sucked out the intake into the chamber and out the rear of the car.. I am not guessing this, I have tested it AFTER trying to find out why my new motor I had died in 3 weeks with no oil after I know I put in Royal Purple 5w20 for $60
I reconnected stock and revved motor for 10 minutes at 6000 RPM and sure enough, the CAI from FSWERKS was getting a fresh coat of oil. after a week, I noticed 1/2 qt. Low.. I stuck a Filter on the Valve cover vent and no more lose then a normal issue.... so that PVC is a issue to me.
Been 2 months now, no issue till the light flickering..
Here is a video... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yPLSSasxlIA
I have a strong feeling its a Pump issue myself.. since 90% of the motor was replaced and high RPMs can kill a pump.
I even need to use a Tranny Cooler on my Power Steering pump to keep from burning it up. Learned that 3 pumps later..
I know you keep saying its stock, but Other then Cams and Turbo, its not... and Cams are in the near future and since its a Automatic, no turbo for me.. I would kill the motor and tranny in a few weeks.
And I have a Oil catch can BTW, I removed it.. it does not put the oil back in the motor, so what good is it.. I know oil comes out.. why not just use a filter to keep the oil in??
|10-14-2012 10:13 PM|
The car shouldn't be having issues with oil pressure with all the stock equipment on it and if it truly is, deleting the balance shafts for a very small bump in oil pressure is only going to mask the problem for a short time.
Its not unheard of that an oil pressure sender goes bad. I'd be spending a 30 bucks on a test gauge, plug it into the sender port, and take it for a drive and see what the oil pressure is truly doing. Might just be a bad 20 dollar sender. Then at least you know if there is a problem or not.
Personally I would leave the PCV system stock. Even though its a small amount, the air that is entering the engine via this system (in stock form) is metered and while the car has the ability to compensate for it with its long term trims it shouldn't have to. Your not seeing any gains going the other way and if a very light oil film is of concern you can always splice in a small catch can in line with the feed from the intake to the valve cover.
|10-13-2012 08:36 PM|
|10-10-2012 10:08 PM|
|VEGAS||i want to add a Oil temp and Pressure gauge..|
|10-10-2012 10:07 PM|
its only a few hundred for oil pump, this weekend I will be swapping oil out for royal purple.
since I wanna do the BSD anyway...
|10-10-2012 09:41 AM|
|wrc_fan||Before you install upgraded pumps, oil coolers, etc, you need to add some instrumentation. Find out your oil temp and pressure under operation. I think synthetic 5w30 would be a good idea.|
|10-10-2012 09:02 AM|
Still, I think you are better off switching to a full synthetic at a thicker weight, and adding an oil cooler. I wouldn't worry about the pump unless you are about to tear apart the engine again, and even then, probably would not have the same effect as switching to a better thicker oil.
What are you doing at 6,000 most of the time? Please tell me this is a dedicated track-only car.
|10-09-2012 02:16 PM|
|VEGAS||stock as in what, cams and valves, yes, but I have it at 6000 rpm most of the time. overheating I don't think so.. it is running motorcraft synthetic blend 5/20. but will be swapping back to Royal Purple 5/20 - if the tolorence levels were that of a 50k mile motor I might consider 30 weight, but its less then 3k miles. it would just add more undo pressure. I will be doing more then the CAI and header soon, going with cam, head and intake soon.. Doing everything shy of turbo. Currently at around 185hp|
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