|09-09-2012 07:43 PM|
|coldbear||Now would be a great time to install a premium Motorcraft alternator because it will be an easy replace.|
|09-09-2012 12:22 AM|
|nilskje||If you dont want to struggle to get this 18mm out , just use a bi-matal holesaw with the centre drill removed (approx 1") , takes 2 mins. Tha bolt should be replaced anyway.|
|09-08-2012 11:34 AM|
|09-08-2012 10:05 AM|
Anyone have a recommendation for Gates vs Ford timing belt & water pump?
And does someone have the correct length on the serpentine belt? It seems from comments here that getting this length right is difficult for many parts desks.
|09-06-2012 02:57 PM|
The water pump is driven off the serp belt. The former Ford mech agreed with most here, saying that it would probably fail within 6 mos if I don't replace it when replacing the serp belt. He also said he never replaced the tensioner (or idler?), but the consensus here seems to be "it's as worn as the belt," right? And from more forum reading I've learned that the Gates serp belt & tensioner are the ones to buy, rather than Ford brand. So maybe I just order Gates everything?
I think everyone recommends the Ford hydraulic motor mount, but what about water pump brand?
Thanks again to everyone!
The Gates kit #TCK294B (1-belt, 1-idler, 1-tensioner) & Dayco kit #95294K2 both say they're for interference engines. Is this a mis-print? The Dayco kit even states, "SE Model Engine VIN 3"
|09-06-2012 02:40 PM|
|09-06-2012 02:38 PM|
Is there something I should be aware of of here?
|09-06-2012 01:37 PM|
I just did my timing belt and found it pretty reasonable. I purchased the OTC timing belt tool from amazon for around $25. I purchased a Gates timing belt kit 294B with idler and tensioner from rock auto. I also ended up replacing the water pump and serpentine belt, idler and tensioner since I was in there. I have a couple of suggestions:
1) Use the timing belt tools! these make the job way way easier!
2) Loosen the cam gear bolts! Many people on here say you don't need to, but let me tell you it is better to do so. When you loosen the bolts, the belt will tension evenly and your timing will be perfect.
3) There is a great 2-part video tutorial on youtube on how to do this job. I believe the author is srmastertech.
Good luck to you. The job is not that bad
|09-06-2012 08:12 AM|
Zetec timing kit, it makes it mostly idiot proof, if you use the kit. Just one thing to remember, if the timing bar does not fit in the cam slots and the crank is against the timing pin... your cams are upside down, just remove the timing pin, and turn the crank until the cams are mostly upright, re-insert the timing pin, and put the crank against the timing pin.
Also... To get the crank pully off of the crank was hard as the crank wanted to spin, so I put the motor in gear (Manuel transmission) and had my brother hold the brakes HARD) as I put an 18mm on the bolt and wit it with a hammer to break it lose...
The timing kit is $30 on advance auto's web site, Although no one in the store heard of it and said it must have been an online only deal... So I just ordered it.
And since you probably will take the plugs out might as well replace those to...
|09-06-2012 01:36 AM|
I'm with the Zetec timing kit and water pump change crowd and although I've read about others not undoing the cam bolts and using the "marking" system on the belt I think as others have said it all depends on your own skill and confidence. For a first Zetec timing belt change I'd go for a "factory" job.
Good luck with the crankshaft bolt:)
|This thread has more than 10 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.|