|06-19-2013 02:27 PM|
Just wanted to give everyone a update. The problem still was very inconsistent and would seem to happen on hotter days even though that ended up never having anything to do with it. I checked all the vac lines and the pcv was in working order. I ended up just dealing with it and would slow the engine down with the clutch if it decided to do it while I was at a stop light. I drove it this way for 6 mo since I was unemployed at the time and didn't have the money to blow at a mechanic or dealer.
Finally about 2 weeks ago the engine light came on. I plugged my scanner in and it said that the TPS sensor was showing low voltage. Got a new one from the local Napa and replaced it. Upon inspection and comparison of old to new, it was clear that the old one was very worn out. So far this seems to have fixed the random high rpm problem. I quick trip to the parts store and $45 later seems to of fixed my 2 year old problem. I just wish the code would of flashed sooner.
|10-01-2012 11:58 PM|
|amc49||The statement made that vacuum leaks were constant and do not come and go is absolutely and totally incorrect. On these cars they commonly come and go when the PCV line at the intake attachment point bubblegums up to suck a slight hole in it. That hole can leak and then reseal to not leak as the little flap of torn loose material flaps around in the hole. I've seen problems then suddenly it straightens up and runs fine for several months only to do it again.|
|10-01-2012 10:00 PM|
|focusnoworko||Did you figure out what the problem was? We have a 2000 Ford Focus SE doing the same thing.|
|07-30-2012 06:50 AM|
PCV valve should be checked every 20k miles or every 3-4 oil changes. You test it by removing it's hose from the port and blowing into it. You should feel a lot of resistance, and ideally not be able to blow into the engine. Then suck lightly and you should be able to draw in some oily smelling air from the engine. That is a proper working PCV.
We've noticed lots of problems with the PCV vacuum line on older Zetecs. The line will crack and leak vacuum, and sometimes the line will collapse under idle. Be sure to double check this line or replace it, or at least replace the rubber elbows. Ford makes an insulated replacement part that is better than the factory part for $20.
|07-30-2012 12:21 AM|
Just an update and maybe some additional help. After 3 IAC valves from local parts stores not fixing the problem. I bit the bullet and bought one from the Ford dealer. Seemed to fix it. Now that it is summer time and the weather is hot, the high idle issue has come back. Still very intermentant.
I have a hard time thinking I have another bad IAC valve. If so, that is like 4 in the last 2 years.
What I was planning on changing is the TPS and possibly the PCV valve. Anybody think that is a bad idea?
I have also really ruled out a vacuum leak. As I understand vacuum leaks, it would be a constant issue, not whenever it feels like it.
|03-28-2011 12:13 AM|
Yes, if I understand your question correctly. The gasket is re-usable and need not be replaced every time you have the intake apart.
However, you need to ensure the gasket is serviceable before re-use or you will introduce the possibility of unmetered air entering into the intake manifold via gaps or breaks.
|03-27-2011 11:45 PM|
|Busted2000SE||It looks like the throttle body is o-ring sealed to the manifold. Is it possible to remove the TB and be able to re install it with out a new gasket or o-ring.|
|03-27-2011 11:36 PM|
|03-27-2011 10:01 PM|
|Busted2000SE||Can anybody answer my throttle body question?|
|03-24-2011 11:00 PM|
|Busted2000SE||I used some carb/throttle body cleaner and got some of the junk out from around the butterfly. Is the blade on the throttle body supposed to have a countour to it? this is the first one I had seen that wasn't flat.|
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