|12-29-2016 12:30 PM|
I found both this discussion and the various Youtube videos very helpful, note particularly the long one that conducts electrical tests at various points.
I am perhaps the ultimate shade tree mechanic, working outside after even the leaves were gone and actually had three snowstorms during the month or so the process dragged out. The car was operable most of the time after temporary reassembly but fortunately had another car for parts chasing. Why so long? Mostly having other things that took priority including refrigerator acting up and testifying at hearings. Here are a few things I discovered that may be of help to the similarly unskilled:
* I tried the trick of removing just the air cleaner and could sort-of see the switch but couldn't figure out how to get it off from there. Smaller hands and more skill might have helped. But I took the air cleaner off every time anyway to get better access.
* When jacking I put bricks under the jack so it almost touched the transmission before lifting, that way I didn't worry if the jack leaked a little. When leaving the car disassembled overnight, I put back just the main transmission mount with just the main bolt so as not to worry about the jack. Of the three times I jacked it, only once did I need to rejack slightly to align, the others were fine.
* I needed a pipe on a 1/2" slider bar to get the 15mm bolts off, but bent both trying to remove the 21mm. I had a 13/16" lug nut wrench but even that didn't work for lack of good leverage. I had been using 13/16" 12-point sockets and was afraid more force would just round the nut, so bought a 21mm socket at WalMart for $2.29 and finally got the nut loose by using a pipe on a 1/2" breaker bar. Once loosened, it spun right off.
* I couldn't figure out how to get the electrical connector off and no videos gave much advice. It turns out that you need to squeeze in the long dimension but I couldn't have done it easily as the wide part was against the transmission. I finally used a 7/8" crows-foot wrench to turn the switch enough that I could get pliers on, but broke the connector shell trying to pull it. (More on that later.) Then I could spin the switch out with my fingers, so I never needed a deep socket which I didn't have.
* Testing the switch off the car proved it was the problem. I tried to clean it as mentioned but was unsuccessful. More explicit advice?
* I didn't have the part in advance as I was hoping to clean the old one. The local parts store had it listed for $20 but none in their whole system. Big box auto places wanted $40 so didn't check availability. The dealer price was $21.04 but needed to get it from warehouse, with weekend and snowstorm it took 4 days. Part I got was SW-7461 or CM5Z-15520-B switch assembly. The shape of the tab that snaps was slightly different than the original, but as I broke off snap can't say for sure it still works.
* I put the switch in and tested it, but after I had the whole car back together it no longer worked! Maybe the munged connector worked loose? I took everything apart yet again, and cut the wire to put in quick disconnects so I could test the parts separately. Yes, it was the connector. The dealer wanted $33 for a new one (50% more than switch!) and didn't have it anyway. The local store had something for $17 but when I took the switch over it didn't fit. I finally put everything back together with the munged connector doing an electrical test every step to make sure it didn't get yanked off again.
* Finally got my state inspection sticker after letting garage replace a front-end part.
Thanks again, folks! And I hope to never need to come here again!
|04-16-2016 03:21 PM|
focus reverse light switch.
hi im new.anyone know were the reverse light switch is located on a 2015 16tdci focus thanks.
|11-24-2012 09:37 AM|
Guetenburg . . . I did the very same thing. I removed the battery and decided to see if I could get at it without removing anything more. It wasn't easy, with the size of my meat hooks . . but I did it and my reverse lights are working again, pretty easy fix.
Not to say that this wasn't a great thread with great pictures because it definitely is, I just found you can do it with much less removed.
|11-21-2012 09:38 AM|
Just replaced mine using this tutorial
Thank you very much for making this tutorial (especially the pics)!
As usual, I never attempt a major repair with out somebody available to run to the store to get parts or tools. My definition of major repair is anything beyond replacing the air filter or spark plugs. Its just smart to never work alone, you never know when you'll need some help.
Things I discovered while doing this repair:
7/8" deep well socket works well if you didn't remember that the switch was 22mm
13/16" spark plug socket works well for the transmission mount nut
Make sure your jack is in good working order BEFORE attempting this repair - I was lucky, the transmission only dropped about 1 1/2 to 2 inches so I jacked it back up and put the mount back on in a hurry while Dad went to Harbor Freight and bought a new jack.
|07-25-2012 03:55 PM|
|07-02-2012 04:11 PM|
Thank you for this great write up. Rep for you!
Took me a little while to get to the beast, but a good cleaning was all she needed. Presto, changeo...reverse lights work again :)
|12-01-2011 10:51 AM|
|wakeboarder1987||i have found SW5523 but also SW6492??|
|11-29-2011 06:17 PM|
|wakeboarder1987||I'm pretty sure my reverse light switch went out. What is the part number for it? Thanks|
|11-06-2011 05:00 PM|
|psycoustic||Thanks Jetrinka... Awesome how-to tutorial. Replaced mine yesterday and all went smooth. I didn't have to take the airbox out though...|
|08-21-2011 12:15 PM|
|nilskje||Reverse light switch on IB-5 MTX you can easily get to from below , takes less than 3minutes to replace.|
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