|Yesterday 09:57 AM|
|JONNY750||Thanks I did placed it neutral saw the timing marks and replace it with the marks aligned|
|Yesterday 05:22 AM|
|amc49||It has to be adjusted properly too.|
|06-01-2015 09:16 PM|
|JONNY750||Does not always shift hard out of first|
|06-01-2015 09:00 PM|
2001 zx3 shifts hard out of 1st. any ideas
had po705 code replaced range module still the same
Thanks for time
|04-26-2015 12:10 AM|
Drove it again tonight. Definitely 2-3. Only happens under lighter acceleration. Moderate acceleration or heavy acceleration it shifts clean - Intuition would say a pressure problem. Higher rpm = higher pressure?
Sold my '67 Chevelle for $1500 in 1981. Shoulda put it in a barn...
Also put a 400 small block in a Datsun pickup but that's another story for another forum - LOL...
|04-25-2015 02:01 PM|
The servo controls 2 and 4 so any combination of going into 2-3 or 3-4 can show up there. Slips too early coming out of 2 and slips late going into 4.
I used to put Vega converters in Turbo 400s behind 454 BBC to get cheap man's hi-stall converter...we at one time had a 2 speed Powerglide that ran in the mid 9's at 140 mph 1/4 mi. '70 Corvette............we should be shot for butchering that car, I groan to think of what a '70 with 454 4 speed would bring now............
|04-25-2015 08:49 AM|
To be honest I may be having a senior moment. The shift slip may be 2-3 not 3-4. I will have to double check. I am not driving "his" car since I got my new (to me) Jeep Liberty.
That animal (a 2012) has its own list of demons that can pop up - LOL...
As for all this electronic mumbo jumbo today? It's our fault. It started sme time in the mid '70s the day I put electronic points on my '67 Chevelle 327 to get a hotter spark - LOL...
Look what we started - The good old "Powerslide" transmission didn't have any freakin' wires going to it or in it. Just a vacuum tube (and a high stall torque converter) - LOL...
|04-25-2015 08:37 AM|
Fluid is cheap comparitively. I wouldn't save $20 when changing out the solenod.
I am in with the shifter soelnoid and key problem. But these fixes are also cheap to do it back to original. New shifter is like $50 and the key barrel and coding is a no brainer.
Totally agree to do the key before it needs it.
My kid also wants to do some customizing on the car and I figure there could be some good summer projects in it for him and I to get some bonding time in before he heads off to the Navy later this year.
Only a few months left to pass on fatherly "wisdom" like how not to get ripped off by auto mechanics, plumbers etc... OK my estrogen level is getting too high I better stop here - LOL...
|04-25-2015 08:29 AM|
Move into house in 3 weeks. Can't wait to have a garage again...
|04-18-2015 04:47 PM|
I don't hesitate to reuse ATX oil at all IF IT'S GOOD AND CLEAN.
Driving 2K on no OD didn't hurt anything by itself, old school cars drove without any OD at all and the trans ratio was still 1 to 1 like these are in 3rd gear. The fluids lasted 60K doing that and these use synthetic which goes even longer. The old school trannies also slipped converter all the time, these lock it with a clutch and that lowers trans fluid heat tremendously. Heat is what turns the fluid from red to orange and then brown to be dark.
If the problem is 3 to OD shift then servo piston can break loose its' pin to do that or servo may simply need another longer band bolt, it has worn band enough so that it slips slightly and both issues can be erratic. Bolt on the other end of band from servo comes in slightly different lengths to do that, but common for trans shops to tell you you need a new trans in lieu of that quick fix, it makes them far more money. Both 3 and 4 use the direct clutch pack too, high mileage trans end cover wear can make for direct clutch hydraulic circuit leaks that produce that slip occasionally. Usually reverse suffers first but not always.
PCM can only point towards solenoid issues because that is the only thing that can be electrically detected, it cannot deduce exact mechanical problems. When a solenoid code pops up, it should be more widely interpreted as could be anything that solenoid plays with including hard parts, the wiring to the solenoid could easily be frayed or broken internally as well.
Look up my posting on how to get key to turn on forever after it starts not turning on, after lock cylinder is in your hand 30 seconds of work and zero $$$ to fix it pretty much forever. DON'T wait until it won't come out, you may have to drill it out then, most do. better done before it becomes a problem.
I as well personally remove the solenoid under the shifter, whoops! missing parts cause no problems.......................
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