|02-19-2017 10:00 PM|
|felixthecat||A alignment rack works great for that. I'd use jack stands as far out as you can to tighten them down. Your going to have to set the front & rear toe, so either you or the guy doing the alignment could make sure their tighten......|
|02-19-2017 09:40 PM|
Yes, final torque is supposed to be done with the suspension at normal ride height - whatever way you accomplish that.
The reason is that once torqued the inner sleeve of the bushings are locked in position, and there is NO twisting load on the rubber bushes at that time. As soon as the suspension moves, they get stretched/twisted to match. IF they start out at full droop of a jacked up car, they'll be highly loaded at normal ride height - even more when compressed by load or bumps. More stress that way than desired on the bushings, they aren't meant to act as springs and can give up early under the extra stress.
|02-19-2017 09:29 PM|
I'm in the process of changing out the bushings on my 2002 Ford Focus. I've searched and haven't been able to find a clear answer on how to torque down the rear suspension bolts. The Ford Factory manual states to wait until the wheel has load on it or something along the lines of that verbiage.
I'm not sure how to torque down the rear suspension components if it's supposed to have load on it. Will a jacking up the rear suspension arm be sufficient? Or do I need to put the car on ramps and crawl under and try to torque everything down with 0 clearance?
|06-28-2016 09:16 PM|
Hello, Felix you are a helpful Cat!
I have my rear control arm bushings gone and from reading a lot on here, I wish to know what is best to do, get the Prothane 6-307 is about the only ones I see that *could* work on my 09 SES, or just get the control arms whole and live with that.
Is it actually true the bushings are the same size from 00-11 ??
Why is this so difficult to find ?
|10-01-2015 12:10 AM|
|felixthecat||The rust sure doesn't help,,,,,,,,|
|09-30-2015 05:41 PM|
This is a known problem to brake on the cars when an upgraded sway bar is used and the soft suspension is still in place. you can purchase a new reinforced one for (IIRC they go for about $50-80 each).
If you have the tools to do the repair your self its just hard work due to rust. PB blaster is your friend.
Edit: is it like this picture?
|09-29-2015 10:44 PM|
Tryin 2 C if this thread relates to my catastrophic failure in the rear today... wheel is stuffed up into the wheel well, the outer end of a LOWER control arm type thing sits on the pavement. Can't get in there 'n look due to nominal hight of the rig currently. A small metal ring w/bushing inside broken off, rests on the pavement beside the rig.
Just posted a tech Q thread as I'm alone 'n of extremely low income but need to get going ASAP...
(3 months after last post above)
|07-06-2015 10:42 PM|
In the US the '05 was a handy step between the early & later cars for a knuckle.
Fits the early struts, but uses the larger later brakes (plus SVT) & larger ball joint stud.
No change on the tie rod end stud size.
|07-06-2015 09:50 PM|
|photn02||yeah thanks, ill just start with some bushes then move on from there.|
|07-06-2015 07:49 PM|
if you go with the 05 hub you have other things to worry about (different size of shock absorber comes to mind).
Good luck. there are a lot of how to's on the forums for various parts. and just beware of the inner tie rod is a PITA to replace.
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