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Thread: The Importance of Toe-in or Toe-out Reply to Thread
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Topic Review (Newest First)
12-17-2012 10:33 AM
ranger97 I had rear adjustable arms installed and alignment done. 2011 focus s. Figures in degrees. Still on original tires that need replaced. After a rain today, I checked the rear and looks like there still indication of excessive contact on the inside edges. Will post as I monitor this.

Shop used 2008 modified specification.
Front camber, -1.3 to 0.3; Front Toe -0.10 to 0.10
Rear camber, -1.9 to -1.5; Rear Toe 0.08 to 0.12

LF Camber before -0.5, actual -0.4
LF Toe before -0.08, actual -0.0
RF Camber before -0.8, actual -0.9
RF Toe before -0.10, actual 0.01

LR Camber -1.7 LR Toe before -0.04, actual 0.11
RR Camber -1.7 RR Toe before -0.09, actual 0.10
12-07-2012 10:00 AM
Geezer Check condition of ball joints, tie rod ends, control arm bushings and struts. All these things wear and can impact alignment and/or tire wear. Since they are normal wear items they do require periodic replacement. Follow up any repairs to these items with a proper alignment.
12-07-2012 01:00 AM
aklyn I just recently got my focus about a month ago and I have already replaced the front tires Cu's the wires were showing real bad on the inside and the tires are starting to wear on the inside again the tires are leaning in at the top front I need to know what i possibly need to replace like the control arms etc or if an alighnment will do
11-29-2012 08:28 PM
ranger97
another question

I'm purchasing a used 2011 focus and plan to have the adjustable control arms installed. I couldn't find the 'sticky' at the top of the thread, want to see if anyone has alignment specs for this year.
03-03-2011 04:15 AM
frednumber15 So I got busy and checked the alignment on my 03 ZX3 at a bit over 100K miles...this car is probably stock and has the 205/50/16 tires on it.

It was pulling to the left and one of the tires on the front was very seriously worn on the inside edge.

When I bought it they sales lot guy said they had replaced the spring and top bearing and maybe the strut on the right side....which I could verify by the new spring and 3 shiny bolts on top of the shock tower...not sure about the strut. Must have been driving it on a broken spring?

Someone must have hit a pothole or curb...because the right tie rod was bent by about 1/8". Castor probably OK...wheels are evenly spaced in the wheel well on both sides. As far as I can tell...the camber is at ~ -1.5* on both sides.

Using a nylon string stretched around the tires at centerline I got the following specs....

lft rear = +0.259"

rt rear = +0.262"

lft front = -0.132"

rt front = 0.0"

I used 0.1"" spacers under the string at the rear tires to account for the different track front and back...probably not really needed due to the minor difference front to back....numbers for rear toe account for the 0.1".

Measurements were taken at the tire sidewall...and so are off slightly due to not using the tread.

So I reset the front toe to very slightly toed out..almost at zero.

Result...tracks very straight now. Replaced the bad tire with a used one...want to get the alignment sorted out before new tires this fall.

Also replaced the swaybar links on the front...one was loose.

Due to the almost equal number for rear toe...I'd say the rear tires are aligned with the fronts...but seem to have excessive toe in.

Wondering if there is enough toe adjustment to get the rear toe nearer to specs?

Do notice that this car has a lot of rubber where the control arms, etc mount...so I guess those are there to isolate from noise...but probably allow a good bit of deflection under loads?

Also understand that 50 series tires are going to be real sensitive to alignment issues. Want to align for mpg...seems that poor alignment can cost 10% or more in mpg.
06-12-2010 09:54 PM
sailor Two thoughts for ya on this:
1. drifting right on a crowned road is normal, more slope = more drift. To check if OK look for roads with different slopes and see what happens, you SHOULD get right drift on normal crown, left on any left slope, and neutral only where flat. Keeping an eye out for slope of pavement should answer the question...
2. Sometimes tires will actually "pull" one way, never noticed this until recently, but have a few recent experiences to confirm this with cheaper tires on different vehicles. Rotating tires and having different steering results would confirm in your case (it did on mine).

Luck with your diagnosis...
06-12-2010 07:44 PM
DrkKnight614 Posted via FF Mobile Ok glad I found this thread bc something in Geezers write up matches my problem exactly. My car likes to run off the road when the road becomes uneven, it likes to pull to the right when theres a slight right slope. I got an alignment and they set everything to 0 front and back and I thought that would fix things, but it didnt. When driving I feel myself correcting the steering to the left constantly and it seems like Im driving with the wheel slightly off center. Can anyone decifer the problem and possibly give a solution? And if its the degree of the toe what should it be tuned too?
06-11-2010 08:05 PM
sailor Posted via FF Mobile While changing wheels won`t affect settings, aligning with wheels intended for use is recommended. Larger sizes magnify small differences is one way to look at it, easier to measure on larger wheels is another...
06-11-2010 06:10 PM
1BlackST I'm glad I found this thread. I'm about to put new tires on my 07 ST, but can't decide whether to go up to 17" wheels or stay with the stock 16". I have the FRPP package from Mike at Hibish so I'm sure a lot of FF know what my specs should be both front and rear. I read the sticky and actually wrote it down. My question is will the larger wheels sporting either 215/225 40 or 45 tires (I believe that's what I've been told was would be acceptable in regards to larger wheels & tires) affect my toe and camber settings. I know that if I keep the 16" wheels my settings probably won't change.
06-11-2010 07:15 AM
sailor Posted via FF MobileWell, things can wear out at any mileage if damaged, you`re at a mileage like my own where wear items may start to need replacement, or may go a lot longer depending on luck and useage... Geezer`s specs in the sticky are tighter than stock Ford specified ranges, give good results. Ford has tightened range on newer models, old specs were too wide in practice for many and caused issues like you have even when "in spec". Best wear, handling, economy with sticky specs , ask shop to use them instead of std #s, or keep looking for one who will - it`s worth it!
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