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Topic Review (Newest First)
06-23-2017 01:13 AM
amc49 You are totally lost, this thread is about true automatic transmissions, you have a manual trans that Ford 'calls' an automatic but it isn't, the DCT. From around 2012 and on. NOTHING you have quoted there applies to yours whatsoever.

Go here and look up anything on DCT transmission and prepare to choke...........

http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/m...blems-archive/
06-22-2017 10:00 PM
SpizyChicken
'14 Focus SE Hatchback Trans Slip

Quote:
Originally Posted by aokrongly View Post
The first time this issue happened (at 60k miles) I paid a transmission shop $600 to fix it. It just happened again (at 100k miles) and I fixed it myself for about $50. It's a fairly common problem, so I'm posting the symptoms, codes and instructions here to help others.

I own a 2002 Ford Focus with automatic transmission. The symptoms are that the transmission disengages (slips out of gear) when it goes into 3rd gear. When the car slows down to 20 miles an hour or so (or when you stop) it re-engages. You can drive the car in 1st or 2nd gear generally. The transmission light comes on. There are no noises associated with this problem. If you have this problem then it's probably the "A" Solenoid that needs to be replaced. Here's how you make sure that's the case and fix it for $50.

1. You need to pull the diagnostic computer codes. Ford will pull them for you for $100. But, you can do it for free by going to AutoZone. They have a loaner computer diagnostic code puller. If you bring the car they'll just do it for you in the parking lot. If you want to borrow the tool then they will want a $200 security deposit. I recommend that you bring the car to them if you it's close. Also, there are lots of small shops that will pull the code for you for free. There's no reason to pay a "diagnostic fee" to pull the computer repair code. This code will tell you Exactly which solenoid to replace. It's typically the "A" solenoid, though.

2. Once you get the code you need to know which solenoid to replace. Here is a list of diagnostic solenoid codes:

P0750 SSA SSA solenoid circuit failure SSA circuit failed to provide voltage drop across solenoid. Circuit open or shorted or PCM driver failure during on-board diagnostic. No reverse gear (short) or no fourth gear (open). Refer to Pinpoint Test A.
P0751 SSA SSA functional failure Mechanical or hydraulic failure of the shift solenoid. Not all gears present. REFER to Diagnosis By Symptom (307-01 , DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
P0755 SSB SSB solenoid circuit failure SSB circuit fails to provide voltage drop across solenoid. Circuit open or shorted or PCM driver failure during on-board diagnostic. Not all gears present. No converter clutch apply in third and fourth gears. Refer to Pinpoint Test A.
P0756 SSB SSB functional failure Mechanical or hydraulic failure of the shift solenoid. Not all gears present. No converter clutch apply in third and fourth gears. REFER to Diagnosis By Symptom (307-01 , DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
P0760 SSC SSC solenoid circuit failure SSC circuit fails to provide voltage drop across solenoid. Circuit open or shorted or PCM driver failure during on-board diagnostic. Not all gears present. Refer to Pinpoint Test A.
P0761 SSC SSC functional failure Mechanical or hydraulic failure of the shift solenoid. Not all gears present. Refer to Pinpoint Test A.
P0765 SSD SSD solenoid circuit failure SSD circuit fails to provide voltage drop across solenoid. Circuit open, shorted or PCM driver circuit failure during on-board diagnostics. Not all gears present. Refer to Pinpoint Test A.
P0766 SSD SSD functional failure Mechanical or hydraulic failure of the shift solenoid. Not all gears present. Refer to Pinpoint Test A.
P0770 SSE SSE solenoid circuit failure SSE circuit failed to provide voltage drop across solenoid. Circuit open. Shorted or PCM driver circuit failed during on-board diagnostics. Not all gears present. Refer to Pinpoint Test A.
P0771 SSE SSE functional failure Mechanical or hydraulic failure of the shift solenoid. Not all gears present. Refer to Pinpoint Test A.

3. It's fairly easy to replace the solenoid. You need a 5/16 socket and rachet and a tube of Gray RTV Gasket Maker (you can get it at any auto parts store).

4. You need to buy the solenoid. I only found it at Ford. For some reason when I told 3 different parts managers I wanted the "A" solenoid (which is how it's described in every Ford transmission diagram and on the computer code) they didn't know which one it was. There are 6 solenoids in the transmission. The "A" solenoid is the one they sell the most of and probably have on hand - because it goes out fairly often on this model. The Ford part number (off the bag) is XS4Z-7H148-AA. I paid about $45 for it at a Ford dealership.

5. For the repair you need to raise the front of the car. I used ramps, but make sure it's secure. The transaxle (transmission) is in the front right, as you look at the car. The bottom is a pan, like an oil pan, with about 20 bolts holding it on. They're 5/16th's. There's transmission fluid in the pan, but no "drain bolt". So, have a pan ready to catch the fluid once the transmission pan comes loose. Be careful. Transmission fluid is hot, it will make a mess. And, the pan has a silicone gasket seal around it. So, once you get the bolts off/loose you will probably need to work the pan loose. Don't bend it. (Make sure you get all the bolts off, it's easy to miss one.) I left one bolt on the front so I could ease the pan loose from the transmission on the back and let the fluid run into a pan. Then I removed the pan.

6. You will see SIX solenoids in the transmission. You can't miss them. Each one has a different colored wire going to it. The A Solenoid has a white wire going to it, it's a small solenoid in the center on the right. It's held in place by one bolt (that's also 5/16ths). Unplug the wire, remove the bolt and remove the solenoid. Put the new solenoid in.

7. Carefully and completely scrape all the old gasket off the transmission surface the the edge of the fluid pan. Clean it. Then apply the new gasket (from the tube) onto the edge of the pan. It is VERY IMPORTANT that you just apply a thin bead of gasket compound. Don't use too much or the excess will get into your transmission and cause a problem.

8. Replace the pan. Let the gasket set according to the instructions on the tube - READ THE INSTRUCTIONS. And refill the transmission with transmission fluid. I was told to use the same fluid I took out, by someone I trust. You use a funnel and refill it through the transmission dipstick tube (front, right of the engine, yellow handle). Make sure you put it in the right place. Fill it slowly. Then run the engine and check the fluid. Add until it reads correctly on the dipstick. You check transmission fluid with the car running and the fluid hot.

9. Look under to car to make sure there are no leaks around the transmission pan. Over the next days and weeks keep an eye out for leaking transmission fluid when you park. If the transmission pan is leaking then you'll need to redo the gasket but do a better job this time.

That's it! It's so easy a 14 year old kid could do it. It doesn't take strength, mechanical ability or the ability to grow a beard. It just takes care, patience and dirty hands. Have a shop do it for you for $450-$600 OR MORE. Or do it yourself for $45 for the part and $5 for a tube of RTV gasket.

I just purchased a 2014 Ford Focus SE Hatchback with sport package.
The first couple days I noticed the transmission slip from a stop, from 1st to 2nd gear.

I took it into my Ford Dealer and they replaced the entire clutch, seals, trans fluid. The same day I drove it home, it was slipping again.

Seems many people are experiencing this. Seems like a LEMON to me!
I'm now having to take it BACK in tomorrow and have it worked on yet AGAIN.

No way a 3 year old car with 35k miles on it should have issues like this.
This is my first Ford, and might just be my last.

Any ideas? Suggestions? Input?
06-22-2017 05:27 PM
amc49 That will likely not affect your issue in the slightest, once you have enough wear to leak it always goes downhill after that.
06-22-2017 12:26 PM
a2000rt2 thought of adding extra fan or trans cooler, but not sure if its worth it or not(how long it would last)
06-21-2017 07:07 PM
amc49 Can be a less than major hydraulic leak, the hotter the oil gets the thinner it gets, it affects worn transmissions all the time.
06-21-2017 06:40 AM
a2000rt2 Having same issue as many others, my 2003 focus is jumping out of overdrive. The weird thing is that is only does it on the way home in the afternoons not in the morning. Temperature seems to be the only difference highs 60's in the morning and 80's on the drive home.
06-14-2017 02:11 AM
Wagon_Luv Found a wrecked one local that has 117K miles on it.
Going to try to get it swapped in this week.
Just waiting on a engine brace to arrive at my doorstep.

Mark in NW
05-20-2017 09:42 PM
amc49 They can be there just as easily over the complicated electrical that fails the cooling system to melt the motors, people have fits with it then overheat them until they finally kill them.

Look at the fluid color, that helps. Newer one is better. Modded is worse. Look at what's left of the interior and outside of car, abuse is worse driver with no regard for maintenance too. If you can, yank pan to look for the clutch pack detritus that will be in there to show damage. Big clue. Get the right one for the right engine.
05-20-2017 05:02 PM
Wagon_Luv Looks like I need to either find another working 4F27E transmission, or fix mine.
The clutches are definitely shot, fluid is dark red now.
The Pick a Part yards have several of theses, but it's a crap shoot on getting a working one.
All most every 2000-2004 Focus there has no body damage.

Mark in NW
05-19-2017 02:40 PM
amc49 Welcome to solenoid h-ll.

You can get solenoid codes all day long that have nothing to do with the solenoids. The only way the PCM can interpret things is 'this or that solenoid not working', but mechanical issues based on just what they are will show often as solenoid problems.

Take your particular issue as shown by description............say the direct clutch first slipped then failed. It's needed in 3 and 4. It might slip in 4 first since load is highest there, then the slip drops back to 3 as it gets in worse shape then you lose 3 all together as it dies to not lock up at all. Since needed in 4 too you probably won't get 4 at all now. Once a clutch pack begins to slip it's not long after that they pretty much fail, it's common to ruin one completely in only a couple minutes of true slipping.

All of that could easily reflect as solenoid issues as the electrical inputs would be going crazy there trying to establish normal workings that are impossible because the mechanical parts are dead.

Isn't it odd how that people think solenoids 'fix everything' and the transmissions just simply do not wear out any more? Nope, the solenoid thing just complicates it all to high heaven.

Direct clutch circuit fail due to excess wear at the driver end cover, or the 2-4 servo has broken the piston pin loose. Both issues common to this trans. Now likely worse though because drove it until the clutches burned up maybe. What chasing solenoids often does.
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