|09-04-2009 10:42 AM|
I'm not a big fan of ABS for competition events, it's a great feature on the road for emergency manouvers or unexpected road conditions, but it has only marginal benefits on track.
Even if I were running a class that allowed it, I'd rather ditch the 10 lbs by removing the pump/valve block.
As for the pedal adjustment, there is no simple adjustment. and it's not just the pedal height that's a problem, it's the total distance of travel.
If I adjust it to have the depressed position higher, then it's at rest location would be that much higher too...
I've already lowered the throttle pedal a bit by adjusting the cable mounting, but if I have to correct the brake pedal, it will be a bit more complicated.
If I don't get any better ideas on this post, I'll probably try modifyng the pivot points on the pedal to move the attachment point for the pedal rod that actuates the booster/master cyl.
Anyone have an extra brake pedal floating around?
|09-04-2009 10:39 AM|
|Geezer||We know that many people have replaced rear drums with rotors without the mentioned problem. I'm guessing, that not many of those (if any) had ABS. You mentioned you removed the ABS system. I don't know what's involved in doing so, having never done it, but I'm guessing some new plumbing was in order to replace what was removed or bypassed. Was this properly sized? Is it all solid tubing? If it were me, and the ABS replacement plumbing is correct, I'd focus my attention to the master cylinder and the bias bar.|
|09-04-2009 12:26 AM|
|runfocusrun||Isn't there a simple way to just adjust the pedal ?? I'm just guessing here. Also IMO if you have OEM ABS why change for a non ABS, just my .02c's|
|09-03-2009 09:11 PM|
|roosterst||Sorry I couldn't be more help. I'd like to know about this as well, since this is what I'm looking to do. I have a non-ABS car, so if you can think of any tests; I'll gladly do them.|
|09-03-2009 08:56 PM|
my car was factory ABS, which does not use a mechanical metering/propotioning valve, it's all done with ABS black magic.
There is a ford scan tool function for bleeding ABS, but I have removed the ABS system recently. (I have installed a wildwood adjustable proportioning valve in the cockpit) But the pedal travel issues were basically the same before and after this mod.
I called Ford Motorsport, and they were somewhat clueless about this issue. I guess it depends on who picks up the phone.
Anyway, these are all good tips, but I think I've covered most of this territory before making the post.
I'm hoping someone from LCR sees this thread and offers a suggestion, they have to have seen this at least once before.......
I guess what I'm really after is if anyone knows which master cylinder displaces more fluid, the ABS version, or the non-ABS version?
|09-03-2009 07:14 PM|
Just thinking, but not sure.
Could it be a metering valve issue? Maybe you don't even need it anymore, since you replaced the drum brakes. But, I don't even know if our cars have them.
Do we use a scan tool while bleeding the ABS on our cars? I know some cars do.
If you call the Ford Motorsport tech line, they are usually pretty decent guys. Maybe they can help.
|09-03-2009 03:41 PM|
|09-03-2009 01:26 PM|
|UnFocusedST||I did the full SVT conversion on my 05. Long as you bleed the system properly you shouldn't have extra travel. You might have a master cylinder going out like mentioned above.|
|09-02-2009 05:31 PM|
The pedal travel problem has been there consistenstly since the disc conversion over a year ago. It's been bled and refilled several times since then, to keep the fluid fresh for track events etc, and it never changes.
It's not a problem for driving other than the pedal height compared to the throttle, creating the problem for executing heel-toe downshift while braking.
|09-02-2009 08:53 AM|
|bringler26||Sorry I have to say it but did you double check your fluid level? I didnt and that was my problem and I had an annoying warning light.|
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