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Topic Review (Newest First)
12-08-2015 04:00 PM
slappy76 Thanks for the write up!

I found it wasn't my 1) spring or 2) the copper plate but rather 3) the tension plate (seen in #13 picture). In fact skip the first two steps and try pushing plate in first. It only needed a little bit more tension to hold the copper plate down or up.

Measured between pins 1 and 2 and it's stays OPEN or stays CLOSED (the way it should be).

Saved me 20 bucks!
03-19-2015 11:28 PM
Originally Posted by dmeray1 View Post
Does anyone have the pinouts of the switch so we can bench check it before putting it back in? This will help determine if the switch is bad or I have other problems.
continuity test on pins 1 and 2
10-11-2014 08:52 PM
twiggss so there is a flaw in them. no wonder everybody is snatching these up used.
10-11-2014 01:09 PM
Originally Posted by OrangeSVTguy View Post
Lol. Not to mention much safer Glad it worked out for you!
Thanks again for the post, OrangeSVTguy. Very helpful.

I'd add two things:

1) if you end up getting to Step 3, I'd recommend cleaning off the contact (with baking soda or something similar). Also, there will be a bit of grease at the base of the contact (I'm guessing to reduce wear on the metal).

2) I also found that adjusting the copper tab (Step 4) proved to be the most help for my situation.

02-10-2013 01:23 AM
toxic_waste tried this fix for my passenger window switch & it works great, thanks
02-10-2013 12:24 AM
TommyTooHi Done, these posts are what make forums great! Thanks, Orange car dude!
The passenger side had been inop for a while, but when MY side stopped it was time.

If I can add a couple observations...
The flat bladed 'switch' pops up with a bit of force to get the ears UP out of the mounts, be gentle but firm.
Popping them back in needs care to keep the 'tongue' in the slot at the back contact (20/20 my finger! Need 20/40 is more like it!)
When testing, before re-assembly, I found that a couple fingernails on opposing corners to evenly apply downward pressure to the movable bits on the top allowed verification of the 'click'.
The white lever's 'tit' actuates the switch, and should alternate sides of the 'pip' on the switch you just put back in.

Thanks again,

11-24-2011 09:23 PM
Originally Posted by veronaqueen View Post
thanks a bunch! This'll be much easier than trying to drive from my working passenger-side heated seat.
Lol. Not to mention much safer Glad it worked out for you!
11-21-2011 12:12 AM
veronaqueen thanks a bunch! This'll be much easier than trying to drive from my working passenger-side heated seat.
04-25-2011 04:28 PM
yellowsvtzx5 worked like a charm one stayed on all the time and was unplugged, the other worked but you had to hold your tongue just right to get it to shut off! fixed both. the tension adjustment is the key! great info.
02-09-2011 07:18 AM
Originally Posted by OrangeSVTguy View Post
You might be screwed .
I went in and ordered a passenger switch for $22. I'm going to use the two 'broken' switches to salvage one usable one and I should be good to go.

Thanks for the write up.
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