|12-21-2016 08:53 PM|
|amc49||That part is commonly WAY overtightened, the bolt should just kiss to have all slop gone and stop tightening at that point, somebody acting like a steel tab there and kiss it goodbye. They never break if tightened correctly. Right is not tight at all, the part stays in place from thread interference rather than bolt torque.|
|12-21-2016 07:12 PM|
|Jacobaker1313||YES!!! Did some poking around today and found all four tabs are broken ON THIS EXACT PART!!! Thanks a million!|
|12-17-2007 10:10 AM|
|S2||Added to the 'HOW TO ARCHIVE"..... good stuff!!|
|12-03-2007 09:08 PM|
|12-03-2007 03:55 PM|
|mister_bin||great write up definatley something to put in the how to archive|
|12-03-2007 02:39 PM|
|zx360||awesome! how to material!|
|12-03-2007 02:30 PM|
|12-03-2007 01:36 AM|
|focusonthis420||great right up, this will come in handy. both of my lower tabs are broken right now and i had to drill holes and zip-tie them to keep the grill in place|
|12-02-2007 11:08 PM|
|FocusVet||Nice Job!!! I nominate this guy for the "complete how-to archives"|
|12-02-2007 11:02 PM|
How to replace broken plastic tabs
I couldn't find a thread for this, and I needed to do it myself, so here ya go
How to replace a broken-off plastic tab on the back of a standard ZX3 grill:
What you'll need:
- paper or cardboard *see bottom of instructions for optional template method
- tube of Quiksteel Plastic Repair putty
- cheap butterknife
- wet rag (water keeps the putty from sticking to your fingers)
- 60 grit sandpaper
- rubbing alcohol
- small clean dry rag
- black paint (flat black aerosol primer worked for me)
- masking tape and paper
Use pencil and paper/cardboard to trace out the good side
Set the paper on glass and back-light it so you can trace the outline and use it to replace what's missing
Thoroughly clean the whole area to be fixed. I used rubbing alcohol. Use a small drill bit and drill a bunch of holes at the edge of the break, then use the sandpaper to rough up the area (front, back, and sides)
Grab your Quiksteel plastic repair and follow its instructions for preparing the putty for use.
Apply the putty onto the plastic so it covers the holes you drilled, and push the putty into the holes. Then start forming the putty to replace missing plastic. It will take a couple minutes for it to start setting, but when it does it will set up pretty fast. When it starts to set use your template as a guide to form the putty into the correct shape. Don't worry if it's not thick enough, you can add more later. For now just fit it to the template. Use your knife to trim any excess from the edges instead of trying to push the extra back in. Let it set for about 10 minutes and then you can add more if you need to bulk it up.
Let it harden for 20-30 minutes and then sand it to the proper shape. If you have a dremel tool, that would be a lot faster and easier than sanding by hand. When you're happy with the shape use your template and drill your hole.
Wipe off any dust, tape it up to avoid overspray, and paint!
I did a pretty quick job, so the putty was a little thicker than I would have liked, but it's hidden from view and it works
*optional method for a template (I though of this after I was done and it will probably work better)
Instead of paper, use some thin cardboard for the stencil (like from a cereal box), cut it out, and tape it securely to the bottom side of the plastic. That way your template won't move and it'll be easier to get your putty in the right size and shape.
Hope this helps someone out there!