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Old 02-19-2014, 11:48 AM   #1
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Transmission Mount Replacement

Trying to rid my car of increased engine vibration which may be due to the clutch pack replacement or maybe just general mount wear and tear (only 24k miles!). Replaced the passenger side mount a few weeks ago and it made a noticeable improvement. After replacing the trans mount I noticed an additional noticeable improvement so Iím glad I did both. It was about $50 for the trans mount.

The mount is totally hidden by the airbox and battery box. Pull up hard on the airbox to remove after unbuckling the rubber strap securing the intake ducts on the front side.



Remove the flex intake duct from the airbox and the MAF sensor harness.



There will be several other wire harnesses to remove from the airbox and battery box.




Hereís what it looks like under the airbox. Not sure what the bottom connection is. A moisture drain?



Remove the front end of the battery box to be able to slide the battery forward and out. Remove the 3 screws on the bottom of the battery box in order to remove the box.



Hereís what it looks like with the battery box removed. The trans mount is now visible. The battery box mounting plate is right on top trans mount, both utilizing the same frame studs and bolts.




After removing the mounting plate and trans mount (supporting the transmission with a floor jack of course) youíll see the mounting bracket on the top of the transmission and the frame studs.




Then of course, reverse to install the new mount.

One thing I realized is that when you tighten the center bolt connecting the mount to the transmission, it puts a clockwise twist on the rubber part of the mount. Concerned about binding up the mount, after some trial and error I decided to rotate the mount as far counterclockwise from true as the studs would allow, tightened the 4 outer frame bolts down, then tightened the center bolt down creating the clockwise twist in the rubber. Then I loosened the outer frame bolts to release the twist in the rubber, positioned the mount true and finally tightened everything down.

One thing I canít figure out is the purpose of the top plate on the mount itself. It just sits there on top of the rubber. Doesnít come into contact with anything. And I didnít see it in youtube videos of replacing that mount on previous generation Foci. Only thing I can figure is in a collision it will come into contact with the battery box mounting plate just above it, preventing extreme displacement. But that seems pretty far fetched. The battery box mounting plate is far thinner than the mount top plate for one. Any ideas?



End view of mount with battery box mounting plate:


Old and new mounts. Only 1 minor difference that I could see.



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Old 02-19-2014, 12:48 PM   #2
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Great info and HOW-TO. Did you just replace the old one with a new OEM part?
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Old 02-19-2014, 02:03 PM   #3
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Yeah I wasn't looking for a stiffer drivetrain, haven't really noticed any problems in that regard. Just trying to get the vibes back to when it was new.
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Old 02-19-2014, 04:19 PM   #4
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Thanks for posting, Kam. Any idea why this helped? Was there visible deterioration in the original mounts? Does it look like the dealer had to fiddle with these to do the clutch replacement?

Another Focus mystery.
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Old 02-19-2014, 06:27 PM   #5
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FWIW - I think the plate is there to keep it from dropping down if the rubber fails.

Safety backup.
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Old 02-19-2014, 08:54 PM   #6
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Old 02-21-2014, 10:46 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dan50 View Post
Thanks for posting, Kam. Any idea why this helped? Was there visible deterioration in the original mounts? Does it look like the dealer had to fiddle with these to do the clutch replacement?

Another Focus mystery.
No clue Dan. I might've had the same result just loosening up the existing mounts, "normalizing" them and then retorquing them. The old passenger side mount was definitely more compressed in an unloaded state than the new mount, but that is probably to be expected after 20k+ miles.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sailor View Post
FWIW - I think the plate is there to keep it from dropping down if the rubber fails.

Safety backup.
Good thought but I'm leaning towards that not being the case. The only thing holding the metal plate onto the rubber is two tiny set screws (maybe 1/8" or 3-4mm diameter). So if the rubber around the main load bearing bolt completely failed the load would effectively be transferred from the load bearing 18mm bolt to two 3mm screws? I don't think so.
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Old 02-21-2014, 03:34 PM   #8
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If you want something done right you have to do it yourself.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kam327 View Post
... One thing I realized is that when you tighten the center bolt connecting the mount to the transmission, it puts a clockwise twist on the rubber part of the mount. Concerned about binding up the mount, after some trial and error I decided to rotate the mount as far counterclockwise from true as the studs would allow, tightened the 4 outer frame bolts down, then tightened the center bolt down creating the clockwise twist in the rubber. Then I loosened the outer frame bolts to release the twist in the rubber, positioned the mount true and finally tightened everything down. ...
Sounds like you do good work. It's not likely that anyone else working on a car that is not their own (like when the clutch pack was replaced) would be so careful about this. Thanks for sharing and all the photos.
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