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My Oil Change Interval Debate Rant

97K views 484 replies 101 participants last post by  rebelx 
#1 ·
Okay, here is my opinion on the whole oil change issue:

Despite what the manufactures tell you, and the internet, and magazines, etc. Get a good quality oil and change it often. Clean oil protects your engine. PERIOD.

If you are using a conventional oil or semi-synthetic why not use the age old 3000mi interval? The stuff is cheap! I hear all of this debate on the internet, in articles, etc. about using your oil longer, but we spend more on a tank of gas each week than on an oil change! Think about it. Why are people so desperate to extend their intervals when we go though gas like crazy (but that is okay [well, except for the price gouging])?

A freaking cartridge of printer ink costs more than an oil change!!!!

I use synthetic oil in everything. If the car has a decent oil capacity (like the Focus) for its engine size, use, and output then I change it every 5000mi and use a good quality filter (Motorcraft or Mobil-1). If the capacity is low (like my wife's Protege 5 at 3.7 quarts) I change it just like conventional oil (3000mi).

If it is a high performance vehicle that is driven often (like my old Lightning and MS3), I change the synthetic at 3000mi.

It is cheap insurance. We are not killing ourselves financially by doing so. Your car will last longer as well.

Even the "saving the environment" argument is silly...oil can be recycled!

I am not ranting at you, but just in general. I see this debate all the time, and I just don't understand it. I'm as poor as the next guy, but I have no problem spending money on oil. I see it as insurance against bigger repair bills down the road.
 
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#60 ·
Since my past 3 vehicles have all been high performance manual transmission cars, I opted to buy the automatic this time since it was new DCT. An automatic as efficient as a manual is just what my lazy bones required in a compact econo car.
 
#61 ·
I think I'll check out that preferred customer cost when I get home. Even without it Amsoil isn't thay much more expensive than the Mobil One, especially when the cost is spread out over 10k. If it offers better protection, I'm down.
 
#62 ·
In my previous GT500, we all compared UOA results from the lab using different lubricants. Amsoil always won, hands down.

Can't wait to see the results after Amsoil and the bypass filter system.
 
#70 ·
Just ordered my Amsoil. 5qts of XL 5w-20 with filter, +tax/shipping= $46.27
What reasons do you choose XL instead of the superior Signature Series?
 
#78 ·
I've been using M1 for over 20 years. In my very raced turbo Eclipse it was changed every 3500 miles since the oil got dirty quick and with the STI it's got synthetic from the factory and must be changed at certain intervals to keep the warranty in tact.

With my NA '99 4Runner I change it every 8000 miles or 1 year whatever comes first but now that I only see about 4000 miles a year I just change it once a year. I just had to replace a valve cover gasket so I got a good look at the valve train and was impressed by how clean it was at 174,000 miles. I use Puralator PureOne filters too.

With the Focus we have dealer changes for 2 years so I'll just stick with what they put in then I'll go with M1.
 
#87 ·
good advice always welcome, i love my 'blue b1tch' SVT and I intend to keep it in good shape for as long as petrol cars are permitted on the roads :]
 
#91 ·
This probably won't mean much to those who want to use super-premium oils in their Foci (not saying there's anything wrong with that, but it's not me), but the regular old Motorcraft synth blend that the owner's manual recommends is pretty highly regarded over at the "Bob Is The Oil Guy" forums.

I personally have never once had a car run into issues with running OEM oil changed at least as often as the manual recommends. YMMV.
 
#95 ·
This probably won't mean much to those who want to use super-premium oils in their Foci (not saying there's anything wrong with that, but it's not me), but the regular old Motorcraft synth blend that the owner's manual recommends is pretty highly regarded over at the "Bob Is The Oil Guy" forums.
You are correct, Motorcraft 5W-20 is one of the best entry level lubricants on the market. It simply works and returns great UOAs. Your post does mean a lot, it means that Ford has a winning non-expensive lubricant that has been proven to perform. However, I can't say the same about Motorcraft 5W-50 recommended for the Ford GT, GT500, Boss 302, and track pack GT.

After that my intention is to run Mobil 1 for 10K OCI's -if- I can get away without changing the filter. If I'm taking that stupid cover off to change the filter then I will just chainge the oil when I have it apart.
To insure success, use Mobil 1 Extended Performance in the 5.1 quart containers. It's only $5.00 more than regular synthetic Mobil 1, but worth the additional investment.

lol, I am a Amsoil dealer, and I always refer to them [amsoil] as the pyramid scheme amway company. I hate the marketing but I love the oil, which is why I sell it. I only decided to carry it after trying it for myself for a couple of years. Now I use it in everything. I even use the coolant in my farm tractors (but I don't bother trying to sell it $$$$$$).
Ditto, I also use it in everything, even my push lawn mowers. They use to yank your shoulder out of socket when you tried to pull start them, but with Amsoil, you barely pull the cord and it starts the first time.

Amsoil is in fact multi level marketing, but I wouldn't use the stereotype "Pyramid". It's much different. The top guy isn't the one making all the money, the man who works their dealership is, no matter if he is the top, middle, or bottom guy.

Out of curiosity .... WHO are the 'WE' in your quotatioin above ?? It's sounding a lot like you work for AMSOIL, which is fine ... but if that's the case ... you should say so. Absolutely no offense intended.

REV
"We" is defined as other internet posters in the know and people on the inside who's trust I have earned. I wish I worked as an Amsoil employee, I need a job. [:(]

I do hold an Amsoil independent dealer number, but showing people how to buy it at cost doesn't bring home any bacon for me. I do it for the love of cars, and sharing that love with members of car forums who I share something in common with.
 
#92 ·
I have 3 free-ish changes coming from my dealer which I intend to get at 5k, 10k, and 15k.

I don't see the point in skimping on oil if you do your own changes. The difference between the recommended MotorCraft oil and Wal Mart's store brand conventional is less than 5 bucks a jug.

After that my intention is to run Mobil 1 for 10K OCI's -if- I can get away without changing the filter. If I'm taking that stupid cover off to change the filter then I will just chainge the oil when I have it apart.
 
#100 ·
UB is a good guy. Sold my terminator last year so I don't get on SVT much now. Welcome to FF!

EDIT: I'm also another Amsoil user. For the oil change intervals, Amsoil ends up being cheaper if you go with the flavors that offer extended range. I like changing oil once every six months or a year.
 
#103 ·
UB is a good guy. Sold my terminator last year so I don't get on SVT much now. Welcome to FF!
Thanks for the warm welcome. I think owning a focus gives me new challenges with testing to learn more about the new 2.0L direct injected engine.

What's your opinion of Ford's recommended OCI (up to 10,000 miles or 1 year) with this product?
I fully support a 10,000 mile OCI in the new 5.0 Coyote and Roadrunner engines because they use an 8 quart and 8.5 quart sump respectively. All of the active additives in the sump will easily make a 10,000 mile change interval.

However, I'm not that optimistic with the 2.0L direct injection Foci engine. It's less than a 5 quart sump. Even Amsoil doesn't support their Signature Series extended drain interval claims when the engine's oil sump is less than 5 quarts. In my expertise, I wouldn't use Motorcraft 5W-20 for 10,000 miles without performing a UOA around the 7,500 interval to verify enough active additive remain to make a 10,000 mile OCI. I would also test the oil again at 10,000 to see how close the oil is to its end of life. Direct injection engines are also rumored to have fuel dilution issues. If the 2.0L has the rumored issues, testing will verify yes or no, this can shorten the lubricants effective life.

Before anyone says, "Well it must be OK because Ford says so." Don't forget, BMW and Mercedes perform 15,000 mile oil change intervals with a lubricant that isn't 100% true synthetic. Some of these vehicles have developed sludge issues and component failure.

*It's possible to increase the Foci oil volume to 5 quarts with only the long version filter.*

This is why I want to add the bypass filtration system. It will increase oil capacity by 1.5 to 2 quarts. (total of 6 to 6.5 quarts) Bypass filtration can also remove fuel and water from a lubricant.
 
#113 ·
I think Amsoil is a great product but I don't think it's so much better that I would give up the availability and convenience of just using M1 or another synthetic that I can get anywhere. I do buy my M1 at Wally-world since the price is hard to beat for the 5qt jug but sometimes costco sells a case for a real good price.
 
#115 ·
When you buy the 5.1 container, make sure it's 5W-20 Extended Performance. For only 5 dollars more, you are getting a superior product in comparison to regular Mobil 1.
 
#118 ·
If you are buying for only one car, you have to buy Signature Series and perform once a year oil changes to make it worth it. That's the only way to save money with a single vehicle. 15,000 miles or one year, whichever occur first.



If Mobil 1 hasn't diluted their formulation with VISOM hydrocracked petroleum, you should see an efficiency gain, engine temp reduction, and oil pressure improvements.
 
#120 ·
I remember the issue with the screen in Scoobies clogging up and starving the turbo. The OEM rolled back to a 3,750 OCI to "solve" the issue. Fail Subbie!

I recall a high end performance Evolution shop that had failures with their turbos using regular Mobil 1 due to low levels of ZDDP. I'm trying to find their article about it, but still looking.

Edit: found it

FP Turbo failures

Summary, Mobil 1 may be fine for your grocery getter, but it fails under heavy demand.
 
#121 ·
Odd stories. I used M1 in my 400hp Eclipse that saw 400+ timeslips at the strip over 8 seasons,autocrossed a few times a year and M1 never let me down or my turbos;also used it in my Type R which was autocrossed quite a bit and now I use it in my 13 year old 4Runner and it burns a normal amount but never has more than a half quart low after 8000 mile changes which is great for a 174,000 mile vehicle which sees off road regularly.

Maybe I've been lucky but using it with no ill effects since '93 can't be all luck.
 
#122 ·
Now let's compare what you just posted in relationship to the years in questions.

Mobil 1 made a huge change in 2005-2006 for the worse. Their once "fully synthetic" formulations that were top tier were re-formulated with hydrocracked petroleum with less aggressive additive packages. It was no longer the bullet proof formulation that made Mobil 1 the #1 choice in America.
 
#124 ·
I'm willing to give Amsoil a shot, considering the positive word of mouth that I have seen not only here but also heard first hand in the non-internets world. Considering the interval that I run oil (which I have honestly never had an issue with), a better oil will serve me...um...better.

As for cost, I consider it relatively irrelevant. Even at $10 a quart and $12 a filter, that (minus shipping, etc.) only adds up to a total of $84 for 10,000 miles of protection for my OCI. That's less only $,084 per mile for piece of mind. I can't beat that by enough to justify something cheaper. A $30 Jiffy Lube change at 3k miles would be technically $100 for the same mileage period, with crappier oil, an additional oil change (inconvenience), and so on.

As for the 'it's just a FORD FOCUS'-maybe yours is 'just a FORD FOCUS'. I may not be driving a Bentley to work, but my Focus is still a nearly $30k msrp work car. Considering that this car has the potential to be the last 'work' car I need to buy for a very long time, I will probably take care of it. I would rather spend a couple of bucks now for peace of mind and longevity. Don't diss my ride just because you bought a cheap version. I can assure you, my car is nice enough for me to take care of. To each his own.
 
#125 ·
As for the 'it's just a FORD FOCUS'-maybe yours is 'just a FORD FOCUS'. I may not be driving a Bentley to work, but my Focus is still a nearly $30k msrp work car. Considering that this car has the potential to be the last 'work' car I need to buy for a very long time, I will probably take care of it. I would rather spend a couple of bucks now for peace of mind and longevity. Don't diss my ride just because you bought a cheap version. I can assure you, my car is nice enough for me to take care of. To each his own.
Get out of my mind!!!

I was going to say something very similar to that in the "Walmart" posts.

FTR, I paid about the same for my Ti as i did for my Z06. Price paid is not an accurate descriptor of value. I can overpay for junk just as I can underpay for quality. The trick is to do more of the latter!
 
#129 ·
OMFG! This is epic...Get in a comfortable chair with something to drink, and enjoy this thread from beginning to end. Just a warning, don't drink anything that will burn when it shoots out your nose-that sucks. And no milk either, that's just gross.

http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=287658
 
#130 ·
Crap, I just realized that I'm about to derail this thread. Don't comment on that link here, people! I get sidetracked easily!

So yeah, um, oil change interval...
 
#131 ·
All these threads are identical no matter if I saw them 10 years ago or yesterday on every car forum I've been on but really the bottom line is change your oil regularly with a good quality oil and most likely you'll never have an issue.
 
#135 ·
Better yet, just get a Pella Oil extraction pump http://www.pelaproducts.com/ and be done with it. Never jack the car up and never remove your drain plug again. Used one on all of my TDI VW's, works like a charm.
 
#136 ·
I know Ford recommends 7500 miles oil change for a 2009 Focus. I own one. However, I learned over two years ago that some '09 Focus owners were having problems with their tires wearing unevenly. I asked my dealer's Service Manager about the tire rotaion. He recommended every 5000. So, every 5000 miles I have the oil change AND tires rotated. In the past I have used Pennzoil. On my Focus I am staying with the Ford blended oil and Ford Oil Filter. I have just about 26000 miles on my Focus. It seems to running pretty good.
 
#139 ·
Even though I haven't owned one personally, I wouldn't have a trust issue with the valves. We use similarly designed drains on many aircraft in order to get quick access to oil for our oil analysis programs.
 
#142 ·
For what its worth, 3000 miles is overkill these days with these kinds of engines.

BMW recommends at 6000 miles, sometimes more because the engine is that good at managing everything.

Yes its only, maybe upwards of 100 a change; but unless you track your car every other day I don't see why anyone needs to swap oil every 3000 miles.
 
#143 ·
For what its worth, 3000 miles is overkill these days with these kinds of engines.

BMW recommends at 6000 miles, sometimes more because the engine is that good at managing everything.

Yes its only, maybe upwards of 100 a change; but unless you track your car every other day I don't see why anyone needs to swap oil every 3000 miles.
BMW's are running 15,000 mile OCI's nowadays.
 
#146 ·
I was in Wal Mart tonight looking at the 5.1 quart containers of Mobil 1.

Extended Performance was only $2.00 more than regular Mobil 1 "synthetic". It's a no brainer.....buy Extended Performance.
 
#147 ·
I was in Wal Mart tonight looking at the 5.1 quart containers of Mobil 1.

Extended Performance was only $2.00 more than regular Mobil 1 "synethtic". It's a no brainer.....buy Extended Performance.
You know what I'm running in my Focus [cheers]
 
#161 ·
Color of the oil doesn't classify condition, however, no way I would trust a synthetic blend with only 4.5 quarts up to 10,000 miles.

The 4.6L Mustangs with 6 quarts was only rated up to 7,500 miles with the same oil and a larger filter.

The 2011+ Mustangs with the 5.0 (8 quart sump) is rated for 10,000 miles. With all the extra quarts in the sump, it's easy to understand why.
 
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